6-point best practices

[watkins]

What’s the best practice for leveling with a hydraulic 6-point system.

Should I stack my blocks under the jack pads and let it pickup tires off the ground…. Or should I build a ramp with my blocks and then add some blocks to jack pads to get it level?

With my Class A I do the latter. I build a ramp.. get it close and then let the jacks do their thing. But that only has 4 point.

[dutchmensport]

With hydraulic, you can probably get away with having the hydraulics lift the camper without any problems. But, the thing you need to watch for is over extending your jacks, causing a stroke out. I don't have hydraulic, only electric. But I do know, there is a limit to how far any jack will extend before it can't go any farther.

What you really need to do is experiment with your unique rig and find it's limitations. You really need to know where that jack extension end point is. Then when you are parked on an incline or decline, you'll be able to visually determine if you need to add extra blocks under the jacks, or that ramp under the tires.

Just for what it's worth, I have the Lippert 6 point electric auto level 3.0 system on my fifth wheel. There is a very narrow tolerance (left and right) in order for the system to work correctly. If the angle (left right) is off too much, the jacks simply will not work. The system will error out. Same is true if the front and back is too far off from each other. With a 41 foot long camper, it does not take much incline for my system to throw errors.

With that said, first.... experiment with your own equipment and determine it's limitations (over extending the jacks). Then second .... it really is "always" best to have the camper as level as possible when you start by building up the low sides first, or the low tire side first, before using the auto level, or even manual level.

And third? What does your RV manufacturer say specifically, about lifting your unit with the jacks? If they do not recommend it, then don't do it.

So, get the camper as level as possible first (regardless). Build up blocks under the jacks so they won't hyper extend, and then third do the level / auto level. Even though jacks might be able to actually lift your rig, they were not intended for that. They were intended for leveling, not lifting .... even the hydraulic versions.

[xrated]

Originally Posted by watkins

What’s the best practice for leveling with a hydraulic 6-point system.

Should I stack my blocks under the jack pads and let it pickup tires off the ground…. Or should I build a ramp with my blocks and then add some blocks to jack pads to get it level?

With my Class A I do the latter. I build a ramp.. get it close and then let the jacks do their thing. But that only has 4 point.

I'm going to make an assumption here (we all know what happens sometimes with that), but assuming you have the Lippert Hydraulic jacks. Lippert will clearly tell you that you should be fairly level before engaging the "auto level" function. And of course, in order to achieve the best stability, the less the jacks should be extended. I carry a minimum of 10 pieces of 2" x 12" boards that are cut about 10" long, which is more than enough to completely have the landing and leveling feet on them without hanging over anywhere. I put one under each of the 6 legs and do the auto level process. I've had the tires come up just barely off the ground before, on one side or the other, but never all six tires off the ground.

If I ever do encounter a site that is way off level side to side and I'm forced to use that site, vs. moving to a differetnt site, I carry three of the Anderson leveling ramps for a just in case, and then stack several pieces of the 2" x 12" boards under each leg on that side. I've only encounter that one time in the 5 years I've owned this trailer.

Bottom line is that if you start off with a fairly level site, a block under each leg and the auto level is your friend.

[bobbecky]

We have the 6 point Levelup hydraulic system and having blocks under the jacks adds stability so you have less coach movement with less jack extension. I've had the rig entirely lifted with all wheels off the ground for as long as five days when doing brake work, and no problem while full timing in it. The jack capacities are 14,000 lbs for the front landing jacks and 8,000 lbs for the leveling jacks, so way more than any rig is likely to weigh. These pages are from the Lippert site.

[watkins]

Mine is Equalizer 6 point. Great info on the weight ratings.