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Old 05-24-2024, 09:13 PM   #1
traverpen
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Springdale 1800BH

Did they lock the engineers in a closet and let the accountants do the designs?

Ran wires under tank brackets an and protected wire by slipping loom on tank brackets without adhesive or zip ties to hold it in place.

Ran the loom for the brake wires long and left it to dangle in the drum and wheel

Mounted the battery tray below the frame and tacked rectangular tube steel below tongue frame to make the tray lower

Tongue Jack that doesn’t fully retract and sits lower than the stupid battery tray.

Routed gas line below the frame and left it to chafe on drop shackle but.

I’m reasonably sure the builder had tiled showers with mastic and said it looks good from my house as he cashed the check.

Planned upgrades so far:

Fix chafes on wires and gas line with logical routing and zip tie use. (Have pipe threader and black iron pipe on hand).

Replace 205/75r14s and no spare with 225/75r15s and a spare. (Wheels sourced from friend for free)

Spare mount on rear bumped (friend with free wheels can weld)

Receiver mount on rear bumper for bike rack

Flip axles

Add my 2x 100 ah lifepo4 batteries from my truck to the camper with my 3000 watt inverter and renogy dc to dc charger. And add DC plug to rear of truck for 50A charging (vs whatever 7 pin will charge….)

Add solar panels (the batteries and inverter will power the microwave or AC (it actually starts up but I know I’d need a generator for real use).

Different tongue Jack for clearance

Chop battery tray and mount to bottom of real tongue frame.
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Old 05-25-2024, 12:34 PM   #2
SargeW
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Nope, that sounds pretty normal for build quality and cost. There is not a lot of money in towables to spend it on Q/C.
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Old 05-25-2024, 07:19 PM   #3
traverpen
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The Gas line struck me is really odd. It just seems like in the litigious society that we live in that wouldn’t happen at least. Having a Gas line chafe On a Hardened steel nut right Next to Hot breaks. It also sucks to find it after everything is built, because it’s a real PITA To disassemble the gas line underneath the trailer.
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Old 05-28-2024, 10:24 PM   #4
traverpen
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Wires to nowhere, nicked wire, stupid backup cam power

Today while fixing the future wire chafes I found three wires to nowhere in the aft drivers side area. I found a nicked wire as well. After covering the wires to nowhere and the Nick to prevent any shorts. I installed a mock off backup cam. Then I discovered the jackass that wired the power wired it to the running lights circuit. So unless I turn my truck lights on, there’s no power to the backup cam….Not sure who the Jackass was, the tech or the engineer but one of them was.

Is there any wiring diagrams for these tenements on wheels? I’d like to find a good solve point for the backup cam and know where the wires to nowhere tie in and what they were used for on other models.
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Old 05-29-2024, 05:36 AM   #5
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Almost ALL Rear cameras are wired to running lights. There more for seeing what's behind you than actually backing up like a car. At least in my opinion.

I always run with lights on anyway....
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Old 05-29-2024, 06:15 AM   #6
SargeW
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Mine is wired that way too. I thought it was odd at first, but it works just to have to turn the parking lights on to activate it. I tried leaving the cam activated while driving down the road like I always did when pulling my Jeep with my motorhome. It was always a good idea to keep an eye on the toad while underway, so it made sense.

But with no vehicle behind the trailer, and just seeing the pavement whiz by it was just annoying after a while so I turned it off. The biggest danger was not letting the power wire slip back inside the wall of the RV when hooking it up, as it would probably be gone forever.
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Old 05-29-2024, 06:28 AM   #7
traverpen
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Yeah, im having to flip mine upside down to get a better angle. thats the main reason I'm frustrated about it being powered by tge running lights circuit. I'll probably add a passenger side view camera and want to use them with the monitor in the trailer..
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Old 05-29-2024, 06:33 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by traverpen View Post
Yeah, im having to flio mine upside down to get a better angle. thats the main reason I'm frustrated about it being powered by tge running lights circuit. I'll probably add a passenger side view camera and want to use them with the monitor in the trailer..
For a couple of years, Grand Design used to wire the camera to the battery so it was always on. People complained that it drained the battery while in storage. 99% of the trailers I have worked have used the clearance light for power, I guess 99% of the trailer manufacturers engineers are….
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Old 05-29-2024, 08:03 AM   #9
drrelli
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To your other question, there are NO schematics available for wiring or plumbing or any other bit of information that would be useful. (That being said, I understand there is enough variation between where Larry and Darryl and Daryl might place things on any given day, that relying on a diagram to do DIY might be a disaster)

Your last picture looks like it includes the bonded ribbon wire that feeds your tank sensors. There IS a file that helps you identify any random wires you might encounter: https://keystone-rv-dealer-app.cdn.p...reStandard.pdf

Hope this helps!
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Old 05-29-2024, 11:56 AM   #10
traverpen
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Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
For a couple of years, Grand Design used to wire the camera to the battery so it was always on. People complained that it drained the battery while in storage. 99% of the trailers I have worked have used the clearance light for power, I guess 99% of the trailer manufacturers engineers are….
When I’m not using it I cut the battery disconnect. I have doubts some of these companies have in house engineers and am guessing they outsource it for liability. Like the spider man meme and lippert and keystone passing the buck on the frames. If the engineer isnt in house they can pass the buck….
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