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Old 05-25-2024, 04:26 AM   #1
R&R
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No Power to Lights or Refrigerator

We have a 2023 Hideout 174rk, we store it in a carport when not in use . We keep it plugged into shore power with an adaptor . The microwave, tv and outlets work but we have no power to the refrigerator, lights, fan or battery charger. Could using the adaptor to plug into a 110 outliet rather than a 30 outlet cause this ? What else would cause this issue? I have checked fuses and breakers and found a 15 amp blown fuse by the battery disconnect and replaced it, but it did not fix the issue. Also , I tried using a (cheap)100 watt external solar panel to keep battery charged but it would not keep it charged . We are new to this and this is our first camper any advice would be appreciated. Thank you
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Old 05-25-2024, 04:53 AM   #2
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Everything that you said was working runs off 120v AC, and everything that isn’t working runs off 12v DC.

I would check the Giggy Box (black box with a red knob on the face) mounted on the tongue a-frame. This acts as a disconnect and if it is in the off position or remove cover position there is no 12v power from your batteries to the coach.

When we left the dealer with ours after the walkthrough, we spent that first night at a campground halfway home (dealer was 600 miles away). We got to our site but all the power was dead and I couldn’t operate the jacks to unhook from the truck. I opened our front compartment (5th wheel) and found the Giggy box turned off. Once back on, everything came to life.
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Old 05-25-2024, 07:41 AM   #3
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no power

Would that cause the battery charger to not work ?
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Old 05-25-2024, 07:55 AM   #4
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Would that cause the battery charger to not work ?
The battery charger will work but it would not charge the battery.
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Old 05-25-2024, 10:10 AM   #5
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Ok so I checked battery disconnect and its turned on. i took cover off giggy box and dont see any breakers . I plugged it back in to shore power and still no lights ,fridge etc…. I looked in fuse panel inside camper and i have an open slot for a fuse and the bottom of panel. The diagram shows it as reverse battery protection. If I put a fuse in the open slot I have full power. any ideas on why I dont have power without a fuse in that slot?
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Old 05-25-2024, 10:55 AM   #6
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That fuse is to prevent the converter/charger from burning up if you reverse the battery leads. A fuse must complete the circuit for it to work. The question is, who took it out and why?
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Old 05-25-2024, 11:27 AM   #7
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I have no idea , We bought it new and this is the first time I have looked at fuse panel. I just unhooked from shore power and pulled it out of carport i to the sun and now i have full power.
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Old 05-25-2024, 11:29 AM   #8
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I will call dealer on Tuesday.
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Old 05-25-2024, 01:29 PM   #9
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If I recall correctly, the far right buss bar / knife switch is the charger connection within the Giggy Box. Cycle that switch back and forth to make sure that it is engaging into the buss bar contact. No contact no charging!

Was everything clean and dry inside the box or was all the copper discolored and green from corrosion. Corrosion, no contact, no charging....
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Old 05-25-2024, 03:34 PM   #10
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it is all clean and looks nee. no corrosion at all and all connections are tight. Would not having it plugged into a 30 circuit be the issue? When I pulled it into the sun we had lights and the refrigerator kicked on but then went back off again . I pulled the fuse to the refrigerator and let batteries charge (solar) for a few hours in the sun and put fuse back in for refrigerator and it works now also.
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Old 05-25-2024, 04:26 PM   #11
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It sounds like you discovered a "missing reverse polarity fuse", put a replacement in that slot and things worked.

QUESTION: Did you then pull that fuse back out of the slot??? If you did, that's your problem...

That fuse, there should be two of them sitting side by side, is wired to protect the converter/charger from damage if you connect your battery in reverse polarity. (POS to NEG and NEG to POS battery terminals)... Doing that without the protective circuit would damage the converter. Doing that with the fuses in place will "INSTANTLY" blow the fuses, shutting down all 12VDC power in the trailer.

If you plugged a fuse in that slot and things worked, then pulled the fuse, what you did was "fix your trailer" then "break it again"....

There should be no 12VDC power in the trailer with one or both of those fuses removed or blown....

So, plug the fuses back in and you should be "good to go"....
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Old 05-25-2024, 07:15 PM   #12
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I put a 40 fuse in the open slot and left the other 40 in the #6 slot. With both fuses in I have full power but the bottom fuse ( battery reverse protection) got hot so i removed it
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Old 05-26-2024, 06:29 AM   #13
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I put a 40 fuse in the open slot and left the other 40 in the #6 slot. With both fuses in I have full power but the bottom fuse ( battery reverse protection) got hot so i removed it
BOTH fuses must be in the reverse polarity slots for the system to function properly. If one of the fuses "got hot", then there is a problem, not in the converter/charger, but in the wiring from there to the battery, or in the battery itself.

I'd recommend you disconnect the battery and isolate the ends of the battery cables so they don't short out, either to each other or to something that's grounded around where you lay them.

Then, put the correct size fuses in BOTH of the reverse polarity slots and see if you have battery power in the trailer... Once you confirm power is available at the lights and other 12VDC circuits (do not operate your slides/awning/leveling jacks), then go to the front of the trailer and measure the battery voltage AT THE DISCONNECTED battery cable ends. You should read 13.6VDC (+/- 0.3VDC) or 13.3-13.9 VDC at the battery cable ends.

If you do, the first thing I'd suspect is a shorted battery cell. It's probable that your battery is bad and that's what is causing that "hot fuse"... If you do not read 13.6VDC, then I'd suspect your converter/charger is damaged.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO HAVE BOTH REVERSE POLARITY FUSES IN THE PROPER SLOTS. Otherwise, you do not have a complete circuit.

Make sure that your model converter/charger is confirmed and that you have the correct Reverse Polarity fuse size per the chart below. You "should" have a WFCO 8955 converter/charger and it uses two 40 amp fuses, but make sure that is the correct model number for what is installed in YOUR trailer.

Here is the "Theory of Operation" document from WFCO. It explains the above, sometimes in difficult to read fashion.
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Old 05-26-2024, 07:04 AM   #14
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Power Issues

The diagram on the fuse panel door only shows one slot (bottom for reverse battery protection .
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Old 05-26-2024, 07:58 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R&R View Post
The diagram on the fuse panel door only shows one slot (bottom for reverse battery protection .
In my post #13, I said: "Make sure that your model converter/charger is confirmed and that you have the correct Reverse Polarity fuse size per the chart below. You "should" have a WFCO 8955 converter/charger and it uses two 40 amp fuses, but make sure that is the correct model number for what is installed in YOUR trailer."

YOUR converter/charger is a WFCO 8735-8740 and is NOT the same as what is commonly found in Keystone "midsize" trailers. You are correct, in the 8735/8740 there is only ONE reverse polarity fuse. It is a 40 amp fuse.

Otherwise, follow the same instructions in post #13. Disconnect the battery, make sure all fuses are installed in the power distribution 12 volt side, check your lights, refrigerator, etc. They "SHOULD" all be working. Then measure the voltage at the battery cable connectors. They should measure as I posted in post #13. The same probable causes remain the same. If you have correct voltage at the battery cables, then it's probably a shorted cell in the battery. If you do have correct voltage at the battery cables, then it's probably the converter/charger.

The same "theory of operation" applies. You can download the manual for YOUR converter here: file:///C:/Users/jrtjh/Desktop/KEYSTONE/COMPONENT%20MANUALS/WFCO%208735%20MANUAL.pdf

The correct fuse sizes for the series are listed in this cut and paste from the manual: Yours is a single 40 amp size...
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