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Old 10-28-2021, 07:53 AM   #1
sdalpine
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Batteries getting boiled when tank heaters are on

This is a 2020 Alpine. Should we have these problems already ?
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Old 10-28-2021, 08:16 AM   #2
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That likely depends on how well your dealer "helped you when he installed batteries". If he put the cheapest GP24 batteries available in your trailer, they likely are "overwhelmed" and can't keep up with the demand. If he installed "quality GP 27 or GP31 deep cycle batteries" then you may have a problem with corrosion or a loose connection or even a damaged wire.

So, the first thing to do would be to check what's in the battery compartment and determine if they are big enough to support the demand being placed on them.
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Old 10-28-2021, 08:47 AM   #3
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SD,
Are the batteries boiling off acid or do you mean they are going dead?
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Old 10-28-2021, 08:48 AM   #4
sdalpine
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We are long term parked

Hooked up to power but tank heaters must run off batteries or they don't work
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Old 10-28-2021, 08:49 AM   #5
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Boiling out acid
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Old 10-28-2021, 10:24 AM   #6
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If it's cold enough to need tank heaters you probably also need to be running the propane furnace. With the furnace running, there will probably be enough heat going into the belly area of the rig that will prevent the contents of the tanks from freezing. I'd just turn off those tank heaters. We've been in temps as low as 9 degrees and never had a problem with any of the tanks freezing and don't have tank heaters.
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Old 10-28-2021, 10:33 AM   #7
sdalpine
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There is also a problem with heater not working so that is why we turned on tank heaters. Turned them off when batteries started to boil so now maybe we can get the heater to work and then maybe we can get battery issue fixed next year
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Old 10-28-2021, 11:27 AM   #8
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From shore power, your converter is might be producing the 14.4vdc Bulk Charge output. It may be that the tank heaters are drawing enough amps that the converter thinks it needs to run at the higher voltage. If the batteries are fully charged, they can boil because of the overcharge. The normal charge or absorption voltage is 13.6 and 13.2 is the maintenance or float voltage.
Or, if they were recently topped off, they may just be overfilled.
The converter output voltage can be easily checked with a VOM (volt ohm meter) if you are comfortable using one.
I'd suggest taking a quick look at the battery fill levels. Water should well cover the plates but have some room before getting to the neck of the fill hole.
Hope this helps. A camper needs to be warm
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Old 10-28-2021, 01:38 PM   #9
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I'm no battery expert but I thought they boiled from over charging, not from a heavy demand.
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Old 10-28-2021, 02:05 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CedarCreekWoody View Post
I'm no battery expert but I thought they boiled from over charging, not from a heavy demand.
Heavy demand kicks the converter into overdrive..👍
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Old 10-28-2021, 02:06 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by CedarCreekWoody View Post
I'm no battery expert but I thought they boiled from over charging, not from a heavy demand.

I think Canonman is on the right track... the converter is over-charging the batteries because they are under heavy load and so it's possibly charging on "boost" mode for an extended duration causing the boil.
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Old 10-28-2021, 03:17 PM   #12
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Agree on over-charge.

Critical to understand that batteries should only be filled to the specified level AFTER they are fully charged. Fluid levels rise during the charge process. If these batteries are being "topped off" prior to being fully charged, they will "boil over" during a normal charge.

If batteries are observed to have low fluid levels when not fully charged, add only enough water to fully cover the plates prior to charging - do not top off until fully charged and ensure sufficient expansion space is left according to the manufacturer's instructions.
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Old 10-28-2021, 03:27 PM   #13
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That is what we thought might be the problem. Now need to find an rv tech to replace inverter
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Old 10-28-2021, 03:48 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdalpine View Post
That is what we thought might be the problem. Now need to find an rv tech to replace inverter
First, it's the CONverter (not INverter) that charges the batteries. I wouldn't "find an RV tech and have him replace the converter"... I'd find an RV tech and have him troubleshoot the problem. I'd still be very suspicious of the batteries being too small for the load you're placing on them. What may be happening is the heavy demand for power, caused by the tank heaters,is keeping the converter in the "rapid charge/bulk charge mode" and that is causing the batteries to overcharge.

If you contact an RV tech and tell him that you need your converter changed out, he's likely to buy one, bring it with him, and even if it's not the problem, since you requested it, he's going to charge you the $300-400 for the converter and labor to install it..... DON'T tell him what you want done, tell him the problem and let him diagnose it.... Then, make your decisions on what to authorize him to do.....
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Old 10-28-2021, 04:16 PM   #15
sdalpine
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Have a Route 66 extended warranty.
Nothing gets done until they get an estimate and then decide if they are going to authorize repair.
So now a tech is required to make 2 trips out here if they decide in a week or 2 to fix it
Have been waiting for 2 weeks for tech to even look at anything


Thanks for your help. Everything is hurry up and wait these days
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Old 10-28-2021, 06:24 PM   #16
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Have a Route 66 extended warranty.
Nothing gets done until they get an estimate and then decide if they are going to authorize repair.
So now a tech is required to make 2 trips out here if they decide in a week or 2 to fix it
Have been waiting for 2 weeks for tech to even look at anything


Thanks for your help. Everything is hurry up and wait these days
Maybe something you can check pretty easily. The iN·Command shows you the input voltage from the converter. With the heaters off what does it read? 13.xx? With the heaters on if it reads 14.6 then it’s in boost… if that’s the case I’d suspect your converter is trying to keep up with the excess load on bad batteries.
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Old 10-29-2021, 07:09 AM   #17
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13.1v when off
not sure about when on, haven't turned back on since battery overflowed
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Old 10-29-2021, 07:34 AM   #18
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If you're also having issues with the furnace running it sounds more like bad battery problems as the furnace is 12 volt only. If the converter is sensing low voltage due high demand & bad batteries it probably is overcharging, but it's only doing what it senses is needed.
Having the batteries tested at your local auto parts store would be my 1st step.
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Old 10-30-2021, 04:09 AM   #19
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speaking of batteries should they be diconnected for winter storage
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Old 10-30-2021, 06:14 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by oldrufus View Post
speaking of batteries should they be diconnected for winter storage
Two schools of thought on that...

1. Disconnect the batteries, put them in "safe storage" in the garage or workshop and connect them to a battery maintainer for the winter.

2. Install a "true battery cutoff switch" (or simply disconnect both battery cables from the battery) and leave them, fully charged, on the trailer. Fully charged batteries won't freeze. If you do this, check them throughout the winter to make sure "they remain fully charged).....

The last step in #2 is why many/most people remove them to the workshop for storage if the trailer is stored in "extremely cold weather".
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