Semi-Newby Water Heater question

305940 · 10-12-2021, 07:12 AM

I own a 2021 Springdale SG220RD which has the dual Gas/Electric water heater. Have been on two trips with it so far. On our first trip I used the electric part of the heater. it worked fine, then after about 3 hours of use it quit heating. Both reset buttons from the outside have been pressed and circuit breakers and fuses look okay. The propane part works well.
Any ideas on what else I may be able to check? it IS still under warranty but I don't want to travel to the Dealer 60 miles one way unless I have to!
Thanks in advance for any help anyone can provide!

Falcon67 · 10-12-2021, 07:18 AM

Have same trailer, I was under the impression that the 12V was for ignite only - heat comes from the propane. That's from the deal walk-thru. However, I haven't pulled an access panel to verify what model is really in the trailer.

**flybouy** · 10-12-2021, 07:20 AM

Just as an FYI ... If the heating element comes on and the tank does not have water it will melt the heating element quickly. This may or may not trip the thermal overload, or the breaker. Always turn the switch or breaker for the electric heating element off until you have filled the tank and purged the water lines of all air.

Try turning the breaker fully off, then back on. Sometimes they can trip but not visibly "look tripped". If all those precautions were carried out and this issue "just happened" then are several possible causes. My first question to you would be do you have a multimeter and know how to use it? Second question, how experienced/comfortable are you with working on 120v ac circuits and appliances?

Hblick48 · 10-12-2021, 07:20 AM

If you know how to use a volt meter:
Turn on ac mode. Use meter to check voltage going to the heating element. If you have 110 volts, the heating element is bad. If no 110, circuit board, circuit breaker, or fuse is the culprit.

**flybouy** · 10-12-2021, 07:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Falcon67

Have same trailer, I was under the impression that the 12V was for ignite only - heat comes from the propane. That's from the deal walk-thru. However, I haven't pulled an access panel to verify what model is really in the trailer.

The 12v dc is required to operate the water heater. The 12v dc powers the control board and the relay for the 12ov ac electric heating element.

Falcon67 · 10-12-2021, 07:41 AM

Thanks - the element must be in the rear (inside) to trailer because there's no 120v wiring visible on the exterior side. I'll look again when home, might have missed something last time I looked.

**JRTJH** · 10-12-2021, 07:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Falcon67

Thanks - the element must be in the rear (inside) to trailer because there's no 120v wiring visible on the exterior side. I'll look again when home, might have missed something last time I looked.

What is the brand/model number for your water heater? Some lower cost trailers don't have a "gas/electric water heater" as OEM standard build, but offer that as a "optional package".... Then, in today's market, what is supposed to be "standard build" may well have substitutions to "get them out the door" with a water heater that's a "one off build".....

What brand/model water heater do you have, with that info, we can all be sure we're comparing apples to apples.....

Falcon67 · 10-12-2021, 08:29 AM

Without pulling an access panel, I have no idea what's in the trailer. All the docs provided cover all the models that might be installed. The access panel just has the mfg "Surburban".

Need to find the other end to see if they installed bypass valves also.

wiredgeorge · 10-12-2021, 09:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Falcon67

Without pulling an access panel, I have no idea what's in the trailer. All the docs provided cover all the models that might be installed. The access panel just has the mfg "Surburban".

Need to find the other end to see if they installed bypass valves also.

Chris, Do us a favor so your questions can be answered with some context. I looked at your profile and have no idea what a 220RD is. Go to the UserCp and under you will find signature. Make a signature to accompany your posts with year, make and model of your camper and the same for your tow vehicle and folks won't have to play 20 questions trying to figure these things out.

There is a model associated with your Suburban water heater; that would be helpful. This is on the outside after you open the outside compartment door that is over the water heater.

305940 · 10-12-2021, 12:41 PM

This one is both gas and electric. Suburban SW6DELC

305940 · 10-12-2021, 12:43 PM

Dry tank is not an issue, Tank was full and no air in system. It worked fine for about 3 hours, then quit. Breakers reset even though they did not appear "tripped" Only semi-comfortable working on electrics

305940 · 10-12-2021, 12:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

What is the brand/model number for your water heater? Some lower cost trailers don't have a "gas/electric water heater" as OEM standard build, but offer that as a "optional package".... Then, in today's market, what is supposed to be "standard build" may well have substitutions to "get them out the door" with a water heater that's a "one off build".....

What brand/model water heater do you have, with that info, we can all be sure we're comparing apples to apples.....

Suburban SW6DELC
Trailer built in march 2021

305940 · 10-12-2021, 12:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flybouy

The 12v dc is required to operate the water heater. The 12v dc powers the control board and the relay for the 12ov ac electric heating element.

If I were to try to check the voltages, could this be done using 15 Amp service from my house, or would I need to be hooked up to 30 Amp Shore power? (which I do not have outdoors at home)

305940 · 10-12-2021, 12:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Falcon67

Have same trailer, I was under the impression that the 12V was for ignite only - heat comes from the propane. That's from the deal walk-thru. However, I haven't pulled an access panel to verify what model is really in the trailer.

The control panel just inside the entrance door has two switches, one marked gas heat, the other marked electric heat on my unit

Falcon67 · 10-12-2021, 01:34 PM

Sorry - I'm on enough forums to know I should have a sig and some details LOL.

Same - the interior switch panel by the door has both gas and electric. I do not recall the dealer prep person mentioning that the water heater was a dual unit. If so, that's an even better deal.

There is only one on/off switch inside the exterior access door. I'll check for a model number this evening.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 305940

If I were to try to check the voltages, could this be done using 15 Amp service from my house, or would I need to be hooked up to 30 Amp Shore power? (which I do not have outdoors at home)

Our 220RD hasn't pulled more than around 12A with fridge, converter and AC running. Right now the shore cord is just plugged into a normal 20A outlet in the shop near the overhead door.

**sourdough** · 10-12-2021, 03:41 PM

OP do you have and know how to use a VOM (multimeter)?

To simplify things turn off the LP switch at the panel so you're dealing with 120vac only. Make sure the water heater is full of water. Turn on the "electric" switch for the water heater AS WELL AS the secondary 120vac switch inside the panel cover on the outside; it will be upside down intentionally. Once those are done do you have hot water (let it heat up for at least 30-45 minutes). If not take that VOM and check at the heating element; do you have 120vac? You can also check on the ohm scale and read across the 2 pins of the element and should read somewhere in the 10 ohm range. Good element? Go back to the switch inside that outside cover and just pop it out. 120vac there...both sides (to ground)? From there it goes inside the cover for the water heater to relay (probably) and it could be bad IF you aren't getting 120vac coming into that switch.

Falcon67 · 10-12-2021, 04:29 PM

Our same Suburban SW6DELC. Pulls 11.3 amps running, FYI.

**sourdough** · 10-12-2021, 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Falcon67

Our same Suburban SW6DELC. Pulls 11.3 amps running, FYI.

OP sounds like someone trying to figure out how to troubleshoot his water heater. A VOM and checking voltage and resistance (ohms) might be a long shot; having an ammeter to check current might be beyond what's needed at the moment. You've gotta have voltage to get current flow.

305940 · 10-15-2021, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sourdough

OP do you have and know how to use a VOM (multimeter)?

To simplify things turn off the LP switch at the panel so you're dealing with 120vac only. Make sure the water heater is full of water. Turn on the "electric" switch for the water heater AS WELL AS the secondary 120vac switch inside the panel cover on the outside; it will be upside down intentionally. Once those are done do you have hot water (let it heat up for at least 30-45 minutes). If not take that VOM and check at the heating element; do you have 120vac? You can also check on the ohm scale and read across the 2 pins of the element and should read somewhere in the 10 ohm range. Good element? Go back to the switch inside that outside cover and just pop it out. 120vac there...both sides (to ground)? From there it goes inside the cover for the water heater to relay (probably) and it could be bad IF you aren't getting 120vac coming into that switch.

I did not know that there was a switch
in the outside access panel! It is semi-hidden by the gas piping AND there was a decal covering it up! Behind the decal was the switch and it was in the "Off" position. Problem solved! many thanks!

305940 · 10-15-2021, 02:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Falcon67

Sorry - I'm on enough forums to know I should have a sig and some details LOL.

Same - the interior switch panel by the door has both gas and electric. I do not recall the dealer prep person mentioning that the water heater was a dual unit. If so, that's an even better deal.

There is only one on/off switch inside the exterior access door. I'll check for a model number this evening.

Our 220RD hasn't pulled more than around 12A with fridge, converter and AC running. Right now the shore cord is just plugged into a normal 20A outlet in the shop near the overhead door.

I did not know that there was a switch
in the outside access panel! It is semi-hidden by the gas piping AND there was a decal covering it up! Behind the decal was the switch and it was in the "Off" position. Problem solved! many thanks!

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