A/C fried, Question

[Javi]

Front A/C is fried... I think it quit cooling last summer after about 4 trips but it was a 110 in the shade and with this new style of A/C I wasn't totally sure. But we quit camping until the weather cooled down.

Finally took it to the local Coleman warranty guy and had it checked out, yep it's fried. It is a 13.5K and under warranty but I'm probably not going to worry about it and just buy a 15K and roll... I've been waiting a month but he warranty guy said it might take 6 months or longer for a replacement and they won't let me upgrade to the 15K.

That's life in our new reality...

Anyway.. Those of you that have the Quiet Cool from Keystone... do you have the heat strip in the A/C and does it work well..

Since I'm going to buy another unit it wouldn't be much to add it...

[chuckster57]

JMHO,?I wouldn’t bother with the heat strip. I have yet to see one really get warm.

[sourdough]

Javi I have a 15k quiet cool and heat pump. We really like it. Only folks I've talked to about a heat strip didn't seem impressed but I'm sure others on here might have experience with them.

[Javi]

Originally Posted by sourdough

Javi I have a 15k quiet cool and heat pump. We really like it. Only folks I've talked to about a heat strip didn't seem impressed but I'm sure others on here might have experience with them.

That's what I was thinking about, heat pump..

In my case it would be in the bedroom, wonder if that would make a difference.

[jasin1]

Originally Posted by Javi

That's what I was thinking about, heat pump..

In my case it would be in the bedroom, wonder if that would make a difference.

I guess it’s nice having an alternative source of heat.. do you have iN·Command? If you do I guess you could update the floor plan to include the heat pump? I’m sure someone on here knows..if you have a regular tstat hopefully they roughed in enough wires to add the heat to the tstat. I’d guess you would need at least one extra low voltage wire for the reversing valve/ heat. Depending on which mode either heat or cool the reversing valve energized in...also it is a more complicated mouse trap as far as extra components..defrost board I’d imagine and a reversing valve.. but probably wouldn’t be an issue. You may even need a new thermostat. If it’s the bedroom I guess that doesn’t control the furnace from that stat but I would think you need a heat pump stat.

Also I would still let them replace the ac under warranty. Even if it takes a year..just store it somewhere or sell it maybe even use it in the future

You probably know all this but thought I’d respond

[wiredgeorge]

PPLmotorhomes.com has a black Coleman 13.5K BTU for under $600; it is black.

[chuckster57]

Heat PUMP is much better.

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by Javi

That's what I was thinking about, heat pump..

In my case it would be in the bedroom, wonder if that would make a difference.

We would highly recommend the heat pump. I wouldn't think it would matter if it was bedroom or living area if the bedroom is ducted (I think yours is). It is definitely a worthwhile addition in our opinion - especially in the more moderate temps like TX and the south.

[Javi]

Yep.. it's ducted, front and rear tied together with whatever they call the duct system.
When both units are running it works pretty well, but with either one off, the other end is useless

I love how quiet it is, but I don't like how long it takes to cool the trailer without a dump vent in either unit.

[sourdough]

Yeah, our bedroom unit is ducted with it's own thermostat but it has a dump which we wanted. Our LR AC (15k) cools the whole unit OK until it hits mid/upper 80s and high humidity (we always park in the sun). Then we run both. The heat pump is great until it gets to 38-40 when it loses most of it's heating ability. In FL (panhandle) in the winter we rarely turn on the furnace.

[Javi]

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

PPLmotorhomes.com has a black Coleman 13.5K BTU for under $600; it is black.

Thanks I'll check it out, mine are black.