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Old 12-01-2019, 07:36 AM   #1
atkinsb3
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Roof Damage

So I was washing my trailer and there's a spot on the roof that had been collapsed. The last person on it was the place that checked and resealed the roof. But that was long enough ago that I doubt they'd own up to it.

I cut the ceiling out underneath the spot to see what was going on and possible shore the area up. Basically the rafter is bent at the top in that area and some of the screws have pulled through the decking. It's a no walk roof so if anyone is wondering what that means, I guess this is a prime example.

Any thoughts on how to fix this?

I was thinking about shimming the area between the rafter and decking to try and level the spot; was even considering finding the screws from the roof, making a hole in the rubber roof to back them out, shim between the decking and the rafter and then put the screw back in and cover the area with roof repair tape and dycor.

...or even trying to submit an insurance claim. But if I did that I don't know if I want anyone touching my trailer, seems like every time they do something gets screwed up. (Trying to attach pictures)
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Old 12-01-2019, 07:38 AM   #2
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Here's the pictures..
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Roof(Inside_Decking).jpg
Views:	444
Size:	81.5 KB
ID:	24493   Click image for larger version

Name:	Roof(Top).jpg
Views:	334
Size:	57.2 KB
ID:	24494  
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Old 12-01-2019, 08:00 AM   #3
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The top photo appears to show a metal beam or strut that runs from left to right. Just above it is the wood rafter that is cracked and sagging. Am I interpreting the picture correctly?


If so, what are the approximate cross section dimensions of the wood rafter? If there's enough "meat" to the rafter you might be able to sister in a reinforcing side piece.
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Old 12-01-2019, 08:18 AM   #4
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It does look like wood in the picture but that is the lip of the aluminum beam.
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Old 12-01-2019, 08:41 AM   #5
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So, someone really fat was on the roof and actually bent the aluminum rafter? Wow!


If it was wood, I'd have a bunch of suggestions. As it is, you have my best wishes that someone comes along with some good ideas.
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Old 12-01-2019, 09:04 AM   #6
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First, I'd be temped to put the dealer or person who was on the roof on notice of the issue just to have it on record.

As for the repair, short of major surgery I think your shimming idea has merit...something thick enough to push the low spot up out of the roof so it looks right and drains correctly. Since it's suppose to be a non-walk on roof it should be as good a fix as any.
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Old 12-01-2019, 09:17 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maineiacs View Post
So, someone really fat was on the roof and actually bent the aluminum rafter? Wow!


If it was wood, I'd have a bunch of suggestions. As it is, you have my best wishes that someone comes along with some good ideas.
Thanks for the best wishes, I'll probably need them
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Old 12-01-2019, 09:18 AM   #8
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Ouch! Atkins, first and foremost I would be front and center with that dealership. If no one has been on the roof but them the damage rests squarely in their corner and it appears obvious to me that someone stepped/stomped/jumped where the damage is. And yes, like you, I KNOW when I take my trailer in for work something, somewhere will be broken that should never have been touched.

I have the roof mtce. done on my trailer and found that they had stepped on the bath skylight and cracked the outer shell. I found this the year after they did it (performed in Oct. returned in April). They stepped up and replaced the skylight. I'm afraid yours won't be so simple. As a last resort have you got the tools to fabricate maybe a 5/4 length of oak to fit the shape it should be and attach it atop the depressed area?
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Old 12-01-2019, 09:33 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by jsb5717 View Post
First, I'd be temped to put the dealer or person who was on the roof on notice of the issue just to have it on record.

As for the repair, short of major surgery I think your shimming idea has merit...something thick enough to push the low spot up out of the roof so it looks right and drains correctly. Since it's suppose to be a non-walk on roof it should be as good a fix as any.
That's my thinking so far, would definitely be the easiest especially since I already opened up the ceiling.

I'll probably end up putting a patch on the rubber roof regardless of which way I go. The roof looks porous where it sunk, my thinking is because it was probably stretched. Luckily no water intrusion yet.

I'll be making the dealer aware of it. They seem to have the same techs every time I've been there and if they did it (which is an extremely high probability) they know they did. Whether they admit it or not will be another story. I'll be taking it back to them anyway at some point for the annual appliance check.
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Old 12-01-2019, 09:39 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by sourdough View Post
Ouch! Atkins, first and foremost I would be front and center with that dealership. If no one has been on the roof but them the damage rests squarely in their corner and it appears obvious to me that someone stepped/stomped/jumped where the damage is. And yes, like you, I KNOW when I take my trailer in for work something, somewhere will be broken that should never have been touched.

I have the roof mtce. done on my trailer and found that they had stepped on the bath skylight and cracked the outer shell. I found this the year after they did it (performed in Oct. returned in April). They stepped up and replaced the skylight. I'm afraid yours won't be so simple. As a last resort have you got the tools to fabricate maybe a 5/4 length of oak to fit the shape it should be and attach it atop the depressed area?
Glad to hear I'm not alone, though I know I'm not from reading the forum, and in reality don't even have the worst of it!?!?

I do have the tools to fabricate something like that.

I'll be taking the pictures to the dealership and talking to the service manager.
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Old 12-01-2019, 10:52 AM   #11
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After showing the problem to the service manager, if they don't step up to fix the problem, you might consider a couple of 4" screw jacks, one on each side of the A/C duct, lift the rafter with the jacks, bending it back to "somewhat close", then fabricating a "sandwich of 3/8" plywood (NOT OSB) for each side of the rafter, screw the two plywood supports together with the rafter between them, then shim above the "new and improved rafter" to get the roof decking back into the proper "crown". Glue the shims to the sandwich rafter and reassemble the ceiling.

If it were me, since you've got the space and have already cut away the ceiling panels, I'd extend the cut 6-8 inches further so you have good access to the damaged rafter. It'll make work much easier...

Here's one place to get a couple of small screw jacks: https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/06575849 cost is about $30

Or you could consider using the trailer floor, a standard bottle jack and a 2x4 cut to the proper length to "push the rafter back into position" by using the bottle jack and 2x4 to "lift" it at the holes cut next to the A/C ducting. If you do cut the ceiling panel a bit further to access both sides of the rafter, you could cut a "Y" in the 2x4 and use a block through the hole in the rafter and the "Y" on both sides of the rafter, then use the bottle jack to push the top part of the rafter back into position.

All is not lost, just a frustrating situation. I would suggest NOT cutting or accessing anything from the top unless it's the only way. Once the TPO is cut, from then on, there's always a risk of a leak at any patch, so avoid that if possible.
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Old 12-01-2019, 01:14 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
After showing the problem to the service manager, if they don't step up to fix the problem, you might consider a couple of 4" screw jacks, one on each side of the A/C duct, lift the rafter with the jacks, bending it back to "somewhat close", then fabricating a "sandwich of 3/8" plywood (NOT OSB) for each side of the rafter, screw the two plywood supports together with the rafter between them, then shim above the "new and improved rafter" to get the roof decking back into the proper "crown". Glue the shims to the sandwich rafter and reassemble the ceiling.

If it were me, since you've got the space and have already cut away the ceiling panels, I'd extend the cut 6-8 inches further so you have good access to the damaged rafter. It'll make work much easier...

Here's one place to get a couple of small screw jacks: https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/06575849 cost is about $30

Or you could consider using the trailer floor, a standard bottle jack and a 2x4 cut to the proper length to "push the rafter back into position" by using the bottle jack and 2x4 to "lift" it at the holes cut next to the A/C ducting. If you do cut the ceiling panel a bit further to access both sides of the rafter, you could cut a "Y" in the 2x4 and use a block through the hole in the rafter and the "Y" on both sides of the rafter, then use the bottle jack to push the top part of the rafter back into position.

All is not lost, just a frustrating situation. I would suggest NOT cutting or accessing anything from the top unless it's the only way. Once the TPO is cut, from then on, there's always a risk of a leak at any patch, so avoid that if possible.
I thought about a jack and 2x4 but this is right over the counter top and sink. Wasn't sure how the cabinet would support the pressure of the jack. Might give it a try and just keep an eye and ear on things as I crank it up.

Have been considering opening the ceiling on the other side of the rafter for a better look so will probably go ahead and do that. Ordered a circular saw attachment for my Dremel to cut into the ceiling so might as well get some more use out of it

I'll look into the small screw jacks too. Thanks for the link.

I had my doubts about cutting the TPO but will leave that alone, definitely don't want to make things worse.

It will be a week or two before I can spend some more quality time on this, but will make sure to post updates.
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Old 12-02-2019, 08:23 AM   #13
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Do you think you can leave the aluminum square “beam” as-is and build support on both sides with plywood as John suggested?(I think). With screws pulled partially out of the aluminum square stock, if you lift to straighten it, won’t they poke through the membrane? It would be very tough to cut the screws flush before straightening the beam.
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Old 12-02-2019, 09:21 AM   #14
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From my initial look, the screw where the dip in the beam is the deepest pulled through the decking. I'll have to check the others but I think for the most part the screw threads hung onto the beam and if something gave way it was the screw head coming through the decking. But will be watching that once I start moving/adding things, thanks. I definitely don't want to poke anything through the membrane or pull anymore screw heads through the decking.
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Old 12-08-2019, 08:23 AM   #15
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sister two pieces of aluminum angle to the existing one. One on each side.
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Old 12-08-2019, 08:34 AM   #16
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Roof Repair

I would put the dealer on notice. Contact your insurance company and once they give you the go ahead, find a FlexArmor dealer and have them put on a new roof for you that is guaranteed for life!
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Old 12-08-2019, 11:19 AM   #17
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I never used screw jacks that John suggested but was about to suggest his option 2. If using a jack on the island i'd put a large then smaller piece of plywood, probably 3 pieces to spread te weight.
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Old 12-08-2019, 11:31 AM   #18
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We have used jacks in some repairs. Make the footprint as large as possible. Hydraulic jacks are our preferred tool with a 2X4 to take up the gap.
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Old 12-08-2019, 01:08 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Tatanka Ob Waci View Post
I would put the dealer on notice. Contact your insurance company and once they give you the go ahead, find a FlexArmor dealer and have them put on a new roof for you that is guaranteed for life!
Agreed. I've had a lifetime roof for three years now and only wash it once or twice a year. Don't have to worry about anyone walking on it every year to reseal it anymore.
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Old 12-08-2019, 04:28 PM   #20
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A lot of things to think about. Still haven't had time to work on this since cutting the ceiling open to look. Life's getting in the way and we haven't even put up Christmas decorations yet, so next weekend will be out too.

We use the camper of Thanksgiving and Christmas when the family is here. I put the insulation and duct back then covered the hole with some brown shipping paper and secured it to the ceiling with blue painters tape.

My thinking was I didn't want the heater circulating the insulation fibers through the air, and I didn't want to leave a gaping hole exposed.

The Mrs had been going in and out of the camper after I covered the hole and when I asked her about it said she didn't even notice. That took a lot of pressure off me as far as the finishing work after the repair is concerned
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