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Old 07-22-2019, 07:45 PM   #21
travelin texans
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Don't think I'd call the previous owner for anything, obviously knows NOTHING about power for a rv. I'd also look closely at all wiring whether 120 or 12 volt.
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Old 07-22-2019, 07:46 PM   #22
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Don't think I'd call the previous owner for anything, obviously knows NOTHING about power for a rv. I'd also look closely at all wiring whether 120 or 12 volt.


Agree wholeheartedly
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Old 07-22-2019, 08:03 PM   #23
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Looks to me as if someone stole the shore-power cord and this was the owners fix for it so he could sell the trailer.
If it were mine I would get a 30 ft. Marinco ParkPower 30 Amp, 125V cord set and Marinco 30 Amp inlet so you can remove the cord for safe keeping.
Link to inlet ... Link to 30amp cord
Hope this helps, Hank
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Old 07-23-2019, 04:44 AM   #24
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you are overthinking it. from what you are saying it is a 'regualar plug' just plug it in and it'll work. just don't overload it
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Old 07-23-2019, 05:03 AM   #25
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you are overthinking it. from what you are saying it is a 'regular plug' just plug it in and it'll work. just don't overload it
nope, the only way it would plugin and not trip the campgrounds box (the second you turned their breaker back on) was if ALL of my breakers inside are turned off inside, so basically it ran nothing. If I turned the main break on, it tripped the box, if I turned any break on it tripped their box. Had to use my solar panels to keep the battery charged so the fridge could keep lighting to run on gas. 100 degrees it ran a lot. Also never turned on a single light to whole time so just the fridge was using the battery and the cord could power nothing.
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Old 07-23-2019, 05:12 AM   #26
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you are overthinking it. from what you are saying it is a 'regualar plug' just plug it in and it'll work. just don't overload it
Overthinking it? Trying to run a 30A camper through a 15A extension cord is a recipe for disaster. He would have to never use his air conditioner or microwave or ...

No, I think repairing the camper back to full 30A service is the minimum required.
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Old 07-23-2019, 05:29 AM   #27
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Don't think I'd call the previous owner for anything, obviously knows NOTHING about power for a rv. I'd also look closely at all wiring whether 120 or 12 volt.
Yeah, I'm glad we almost never camp with electric, but we have a week-long vacation coming up in august on an electric site, so would like to fix it before that. I'm pretty comfortable with electrical work in the house, but don't know too much about RVs. I'm going to see if my friend that is an electrician can look it over and help me out.

Thanks, everyone for their help.
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Old 07-23-2019, 06:59 AM   #28
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I would also install a new inlet and a new cord.You can also get them on Amazon or EBay.Not a hard job only 3 wires.You seem to have a short length of cable from inverter so you would have easy hookup. Maybe previous owner pulled off of site hooked up. Saw it happen and guy never returned. PAYS TO DO A SECOND WALK AROUND BEFORE PULLING OUT!!!!
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Old 07-23-2019, 07:24 AM   #29
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I would also install a new inlet and a new cord.You can also get them on Amazon or EBay.Not a hard job only 3 wires.You seem to have a short length of cable from inverter so you would have easy hookup. Maybe previous owner pulled off of site hooked up. Saw it happen and guy never returned. PAYS TO DO A SECOND WALK AROUND BEFORE PULLING OUT!!!!
Ops meant to say converter
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Old 07-23-2019, 08:23 AM   #30
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Can you say "redneck shore cord!"?
Bubba said "sure I can fix that there cord for ya! I do it this here way all the dadgum time!".
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Old 07-23-2019, 08:48 AM   #31
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nope, the only way it would plugin and not trip the campgrounds box (the second you turned their breaker back on) was if ALL of my breakers inside are turned off inside, so basically it ran nothing. If I turned the main break on, it tripped the box, if I turned any break on it tripped their box. Had to use my solar panels to keep the battery charged so the fridge could keep lighting to run on gas. 100 degrees it ran a lot. Also never turned on a single light to whole time so just the fridge was using the battery and the cord could power nothing.
Here I go guessing again. What you describe sounds like the previous owner crossed the hot and the neutral when he made his make-shift repair and is causing a short to ground when the trailer's breaker is turned on.. The small piece of the original power cord should have a black, a white and a green wire of at least #10 gauge. Most likely the Chinese cord the PO used does not use the same colors or he did not connect them correctly. I feel that replacing the cord (which you will need any way) and connecting black to black, white to white and green to green will correct your problem. Along with the inlet and RV cord you will need a short length of 10/2 SJ cord to connect the inlet to the junction box available at any home supply store. IF YOU ARE NOT COMFORTABLE DOING THIS PLEASE SEEK THE HELP OF AN ELECTRICIAN!!!
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Old 07-23-2019, 12:56 PM   #32
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Stop with the guessing from us, get it to a dealer and resolve the issue.
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Old 07-23-2019, 01:49 PM   #33
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Stop with the guessing from us, get it to a dealer and resolve the issue.
The problem with that solution is he may want to use the RV before next winter!
If they know an electrician, or basic electrical knowledge, it could be done easily in an hour or less
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Old 07-23-2019, 01:50 PM   #34
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not to mention for a lot less money.
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Old 07-23-2019, 02:03 PM   #35
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Stop with the guessing from us, get it to a dealer and resolve the issue.
Wow! I doubt if I could find a dealer in my area that would take in an eleven year old trailer with a problem like this. If you found one the cost would make your head spin. Marked up parts and $100+ per hr rates to trouble shoot and they may get to it by Christmas if you leave it. This is based on my experience with dealers that I did not buy the trailer from.
If I were not comfortable rewiring it myself I could get a licensed electrician to come to my house promptly and know the job was done correctly. It is a simple 3 wire connection with the correct parts. Mounting the inlet is the hardest part of the job. The short piece on cable cleanly cut and left behind tells me the original 30 amp cable was stolen and scrapped by thief. Very common in storage areas and seasonal sites.
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Old 07-24-2019, 01:11 PM   #36
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Thanks everyone, I'm not going to take it into a dealer. I will rewire it myself and have my electrician friend look it over. I already ordered the Twist Lock Inlet and twist and lock cord. Thank you for all your help.
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Old 07-25-2019, 01:23 AM   #37
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Thanks everyone, I'm not going to take it into a dealer. I will rewire it myself and have my electrician friend look it over. I already ordered the Twist Lock Inlet and twist and lock cord. Thank you for all your help.
Sounds like a good time to add a hardwired EMS to your rig and that could act as your junction box!
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Old 07-25-2019, 04:12 AM   #38
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Sounds like a good time to add a hardwired EMS to your rig and that could act as your junction box!

Totally agree. I know you do not use electric hook ups much but the EMS will protect your stuff when you do and a hard wired one is so much more convenient than a add on one. (Which is what I have) BUT they are EXPENSIVE. That said if you can absorb the cost go ahead and do it.
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Old 07-27-2019, 10:30 AM   #39
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Have any of you done the inlet conversion? My problem is to convert the 5 " hole to the 3" inlet box. I saw some kits online, but based on searches here, they don't fix the keystones old hole, so you have to rig them up anyway. Since I already have the new inlet box, figured just easier to find a way to rig it up without buying a $90 kit that doesn't fit.
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Old 07-27-2019, 10:56 AM   #40
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Totally agree. I know you do not use electric hook ups much but the EMS will protect your stuff when you do and a hard wired one is so much more convenient than a add on one. (Which is what I have) BUT they are EXPENSIVE. That said if you can absorb the cost go ahead and do it.
Sorry, but I don't think they are expensive at all when you consider the alternative of possibly having to replace your TV(s), microwave, DVD player, WH control board, A/C controls, refrigerator control board, and who knows what else might get destroyed by a severe over voltage or surge condition. It's like any other kind of insurance: you get the coverage you are willing to pay for. YMMV.
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