Half ton towing

[Brent1974]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

One significant consideration that many people fail to remember is that the "recommended tongue weight" is between 10 and 15 percent of the trailer weight. That doesn't mean that the "new owner' gets to "choose" what that percentage will be, it means that "usually" the trailer will tow best somewhere between those percentages. Some rigs will tow better at 10% and some will simply sway and be "white knuckle producers" up to the 15% figure and never tow well without significant investment in hitch/sway control.

Why the differences? vehicle weight, wheelbase, distance from rear axle to hitch ball, distance from hitch ball to trailer axles, trailer weight, trailer height, hitch height, the list goes on and on......

Every tow vehicle/trailer combination is unique in how it tows and can't really be compared to "a friend had" for good examples or for valid expectations on how your specific truck/trailer combination will handle on the road.

The reason for figuring the maximum weight you'll be towing at the trailer GVW and using 15% of that figure for your tongue weight is because you simply won't know how your combination will tow until you get it loaded and on the road. If you "pick 12%" as your "known value and calculate "right to the pound" on what your tongue weight will be, then find, after you've purchased your rig that you really need 14 or 15 percent or even more weight on the tongue for "your rig" to be steady, then you're going to be "overloaded" not by design, but you trying to "cut it too close" before you even make a down payment. Plan for the "worst case" and you'll be safe in almost every trailer purchase, if you "fudge to make the numbers work" by using "half the allowance" and planning to "only load a little" and then realize that you need more to prevent sway or "have to tow with full water tank to prevent sway" then you're "STUCK" If you calculate your trailer GVW and use 15% of that as the tongue weight, add your hitch, passengers, etc and are below the GVW and GCWR, then you know you'll be "golden" with that trailer even if you have "unique circumstances" with your rig's handling characteristics. Don't cut yourself short by using "best guess" values, use the values known to fit "almost every rig" and you'll be safe.

Don't get "STUCK"...plan for the "worst case" and you'll be fine, otherwise, you're just "hoping it works" with your "best guess numbers." That has proven to be a very expensive "hope" for a number of novice RV'ers, who find after they buy their "dream trailer" that their truck simply isn't up to the task. It's even been a learning experience for some seasoned veteran RV'ers who want to pull more with less.....

John,

My Jeep has a towing capacity of 7,200lbs and a tongue weight of 720. If I use a maximum of 15% I can only tow a trailer with a GVW of 4,800. That would probably be a trailer with a dry weight of maybe 3,300lbs? Am I figuring that correctly? That's not much of a trailer, I think I might rather hope.

[paoutlaw]

OK so with all this said. here is my 2cents. if you think that you are not able to tow it full of good ole clean water because your tow vehicle cant handle your camper with a full tank. Your tow vehicle is to small. which means smaller trailer or bigger truck.
you know that some day you will tow it full of water.
don't blow up at this. this is just what I got in the first couple pages of this.
be safe and take it easy.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by Brent1974

John,

My Jeep has a towing capacity of 7,200lbs and a tongue weight of 720. If I use a maximum of 15% I can only tow a trailer with a GVW of 4,800. That would probably be a trailer with a dry weight of maybe 3,300lbs? Am I figuring that correctly? That's not much of a trailer, I think I might rather hope.

Brent,

Yes, that's sort of where it lays. But remember that the max trailer weight, tow vehicle GVW and tow vehicle payload are also governed by the GCWR. That's the combined weight of the tow vehicle and the trailer.

Assume, for example that your tow vehicle weighs 5000 pounds, has a payload of 1500 pounds and a max trailer rating of 7200 pounds. With a class 4 receiver rated at 500 pounds max tongue weight and 1000 pounds max tongue weight with WD hitch.
Lets assume the GCWR is rated at 12500. With your EMPTY TV, you can pull a trailer weighing up to 7500 pounds, but as you add cargo and passengers to your TV, the size of your trailer goes down. Assume that you had 4 adults, each weighing 175 pounds (700) and a 100 pound cargo load (total 800 pounds), now your TV weighs 5800 pounds, so your maximum trailer weight would be limited not only by the maximum tongue weight (1500 - 800 = 700) but also by the GCWR (12500 - 5800 = 6700). So, even though your tow vehicle is "rated" to tow 7200, and when empty, it can do so, once you start "adding stuff" to the mix, whether it's passengers, hitch weight, cargo in the truck or trailer, or even water in the tanks, all of those calculations need to be considered.

Realistically, if (that's a BIG word) you can find a trailer that tows well with a hitch weight of 10% when coupled to your tow vehicle, then you can "maximize" your trailer weight as long as you don't exceed the other restrictions. But, what I was trying to illustrate with my post is that sometimes, a trailer simply won't tow well (and be stabile) at 10%. Some rigs simply won't tow well until you approach 15% and some even go a bit beyond that. Honestly, none of us have any idea how a specific trailer will handle behind a specific truck until we put it there and tow the rig. Sometimes they handle well, sometimes "tweaking" the weight bars helps, sometimes, nothing helps and the owner has to resort to either a Hensley or ProPride hitch to resolve the control issues. Most often, when having to go to that type of hitch, it's because there's just not enough "room" to adjust the hitch weight and hitch installation to get to the point where it will tow well.

So, what I was saying is essentially, if you calculate your "minimum tongue weight" so you can tow a "maximum trailer weight" with a "limited tow vehicle rating" and push the numbers "right to the edge" you'll likely be gambling that the rig "might" or "might not" be able to tow comfortably out on the highway once you get it loaded, get all your cargo/passengers in the vehicle and hit the highway.

Calculating "right to the edge" to justify a bigger, prettier, roomier trailer while "compromising" on a smaller than desired" "make do" tow vehicle is often a road to losing money when you find you have to buy a bigger truck or trade that trailer for a smaller one.....

Do your homework, calculate in some "margin for safety" and you should be OK, just don't "push the limit" and think, "well another 200 pounds won't make that much difference".... Often times, it not only makes a difference, it could spell disaster....

ADDED: Additionally, don't forget to consider that Jeep vehicles are not "frame built" trucks, but rather are a "uni-body" construction. That makes for less strength and more flexibility in the hitch mount platform that can lead to reliability and structural issues if overloaded or pushed to the limit. Wheelbase length also is a consideration when considering longer trailers and SUV's as tow vehicles. Sometimes a short wheelbase vehicle simply won't tow with stability no matter what hitch configuration is selected. Even a Hensley or a ProPride which "WILL" eliminate the sway, won't handle crosswinds and passing trucks if the tow vehicle weight is significantly less than the trailer weight/side surface area. Any trailer is effectively a sail behind the tow vehicle when you encounter crosswinds. With a conventional hitch, it may not be controllable, with a Hensley it may "stay behind the Jeep without sway", but depending on the rig's weight and side surface area, you may find yourself in the "next lane" unexpectedly with no way to counter the movement. That results in a true "white knuckle/brown pants" moment. If you look through some of the encounters documented on this forum, you'll find that some members have encountered those "unexpected moments" and have since "solved the issue" by purchasing a heavier/bigger tow vehicle and have had no control issues since that purchase.

Good Luck,

[Brent1974]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Brent,

Yes, that's sort of where it lays. But remember that the max trailer weight, tow vehicle GVW and tow vehicle payload are also governed by the GCWR. That's the combined weight of the tow vehicle and the trailer.

Assume, for example that your tow vehicle weighs 5000 pounds, has a payload of 1500 pounds and a max trailer rating of 7200 pounds. With a class 4 receiver rated at 500 pounds max tongue weight and 1000 pounds max tongue weight with WD hitch.
Lets assume the GCWR is rated at 12500. With your EMPTY TV, you can pull a trailer weighing up to 7500 pounds, but as you add cargo and passengers to your TV, the size of your trailer goes down. Assume that you had 4 adults, each weighing 175 pounds (700) and a 100 pound cargo load (total 800 pounds), now your TV weighs 5800 pounds, so your maximum trailer weight would be limited not only by the maximum tongue weight (1500 - 800 = 700) but also by the GCWR (12500 - 5800 = 6700). So, even though your tow vehicle is "rated" to tow 7200, and when empty, it can do so, once you start "adding stuff" to the mix, whether it's passengers, hitch weight, cargo in the truck or trailer, or even water in the tanks, all of those calculations need to be considered.

Realistically, if (that's a BIG word) you can find a trailer that tows well with a hitch weight of 10% when coupled to your tow vehicle, then you can "maximize" your trailer weight as long as you don't exceed the other restrictions. But, what I was trying to illustrate with my post is that sometimes, a trailer simply won't tow well (and be stabile) at 10%. Some rigs simply won't tow well until you approach 15% and some even go a bit beyond that. Honestly, none of us have any idea how a specific trailer will handle behind a specific truck until we put it there and tow the rig. Sometimes they handle well, sometimes "tweaking" the weight bars helps, sometimes, nothing helps and the owner has to resort to either a Hensley or ProPride hitch to resolve the control issues. Most often, when having to go to that type of hitch, it's because there's just not enough "room" to adjust the hitch weight and hitch installation to get to the point where it will tow well.

So, what I was saying is essentially, if you calculate your "minimum tongue weight" so you can tow a "maximum trailer weight" with a "limited tow vehicle rating" and push the numbers "right to the edge" you'll likely be gambling that the rig "might" or "might not" be able to tow comfortably out on the highway once you get it loaded, get all your cargo/passengers in the vehicle and hit the highway.

Calculating "right to the edge" to justify a bigger, prettier, roomier trailer while "compromising" on a smaller than desired" "make do" tow vehicle is often a road to losing money when you find you have to buy a bigger truck or trade that trailer for a smaller one.....

Do your homework, calculate in some "margin for safety" and you should be OK, just don't "push the limit" and think, "well another 200 pounds won't make that much difference".... Often times, it not only makes a difference, it could spell disaster....

ADDED: Additionally, don't forget to consider that Jeep vehicles are not "frame built" trucks, but rather are a "uni-body" construction. That makes for less strength and more flexibility in the hitch mount platform that can lead to reliability and structural issues if overloaded or pushed to the limit. Wheelbase length also is a consideration when considering longer trailers and SUV's as tow vehicles. Sometimes a short wheelbase vehicle simply won't tow with stability no matter what hitch configuration is selected. Even a Hensley or a ProPride which "WILL" eliminate the sway, won't handle crosswinds and passing trucks if the tow vehicle weight is significantly less than the trailer weight/side surface area. Any trailer is effectively a sail behind the tow vehicle when you encounter crosswinds. With a conventional hitch, it may not be controllable, with a Hensley it may "stay behind the Jeep without sway", but depending on the rig's weight and side surface area, you may find yourself in the "next lane" unexpectedly with no way to counter the movement. That results in a true "white knuckle/brown pants" moment. If you look through some of the encounters documented on this forum, you'll find that some members have encountered those "unexpected moments" and have since "solved the issue" by purchasing a heavier/bigger tow vehicle and have had no control issues since that purchase.

Good Luck,

John,

I appreciate your expertise in this area. There are a lot of variables that must be taken into consideration to make certain that you are not overloaded in some capacity, car, trailer and tongue weight. I can't imagine how many of the campers I see going down the road are overloaded in some regard, but I bet it is thousands. That's scary.

Your posts that I have been reading over the past week have certainly made me scale down the size of trailer I will be getting. I am a little ticked off at jeep, what they say you can tow with a jeep and what you can actually tow and be safe, based on the forums information are night and day.

Couple of questions for you.

1. If my TV has a payload of 1050 and my trail tongue weight is 720, does that mean I only have 330 for passengers and cargo? Which would mean I couldn't take my wife with me. (combined we would be over that limit).

2. I understand that WD hitch will take some of the weight off the hitch and send some to the TV front axle and some to the trailer thus lowering weight on the hitch. Does this allow me more weight in the TV?

Thanks for the help.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by Brent1974

John,

I appreciate your expertise in this area. There are a lot of variables that must be taken into consideration to make certain that you are not overloaded in some capacity, car, trailer and tongue weight. I can't imagine how many of the campers I see going down the road are overloaded in some regard, but I bet it is thousands. That's scary.

Your posts that I have been reading over the past week have certainly made me scale down the size of trailer I will be getting. I am a little ticked off at jeep, what they say you can tow with a jeep and what you can actually tow and be safe, based on the forums information are night and day.

Couple of questions for you.

1. If my TV has a payload of 1050 and my trail tongue weight is 720, does that mean I only have 330 for passengers and cargo? Which would mean I couldn't take my wife with me. (combined we would be over that limit).

2. I understand that WD hitch will take some of the weight off the hitch and send some to the TV front axle and some to the trailer thus lowering weight on the hitch. Does this allow me more weight in the TV?

Thanks for the help.

Yes, there are a lot of people who "honestly believe they are within their limits" who are unknowingly towing way over their "engineering limits". It is scary. Jeep isn't the only manufacturer who "overadvertises" or "advertises at the limit" They all do it to "one up" the competition.

As for your questions:
1. Yes, with a 1050 payload, if you add 720 pounds of tongue weight, that leaves 330 pounds of "passenger/cargo" capability. On some vehicles, there is an "allowance" of 150 pounds for the driver and the payload is calculated with a full tank of fuel. To be safe and accurate, you might consider loading your Jeep as you would tow, with wife and you in the truck, then weigh it and see what it actually weighs. Then subtract that weight from the GVW. What's left is all the weight you can allocate to the trailer tongue/hitch assembly and other cargo. Remember that any accessories added to the Jeep since it left the factory also need to be subtracted from the "door post GVW sticker's payload" Any dealer added or owner added "stuff" is a part of the payload. That includes floor mats, GPS, tool kit, safety kit, maps and gloves in the console, etc...... (that's why an actual weight is more accurate)

2. The WD hitch does take some weight off the hitch. It transfers about 20% to the front axle (that is still a part of the payload consideration) and it transfers about 10-15% back to the trailer axles. That "theoretically" would give you a "little extra payload" but when you factor in the weight of the hitch, it pretty much comes out a wash. If you think about it, when you put your trailer on the scale, with the hitch on one pad and the axles on another, you get the "hitch weight" and the "axle weight". Those added together should total the "trailer weight". When you put your vehicle on the scale, you get the "total weight" of the Jeep, but if you haven't got the hitch in the receiver and the weight bars attached to that assembly, you'll be omitting about 75-100 pounds of weight. Normally that's about what is transferred to the trailer axles. That's why I consider the WD hitch transfer a "wash". ie: What transfers forward is still part of the jeep payload and what transfers back is negated by the weight of the added hitch components.

I hope that explains it a bit clearer.... And yes, I'd be ticked at Jeep as well. Of course my Ford F250 isn't capable of towing what Ford says it can either. Nor can Chevrolet or Dodge or GM or Toyota or Nissan or ????? So you're not alone in being "caught up in the advertising claims" from the manufacturers....

Good luck and choose something that works for you and stays within the safety realm of "reality" That might mean a smaller trailer or possibly a bigger tow vehicle..... I just bought my "bigger truck" last summer when we upgraded trailers, so I know what you're facing. Remember the old adage: "It's only money" <sigh>

[OurLuckyPenny]

There seems to be little doubt that having a tow vehicle that exceeds all recommended weight/towing requirements is wise.

However, that being the case, why are many of the trailer manufacturers now, fairly recently, manufacturing extra-lite trailers and touting them as being safe to pull with 1/2 ton tow vehicles???

The general gist of the conclusions that most of the experienced moderators are offering is that no combination of trailer and 1/2 ton tow vehicle is safe! Is that the case?

Also, hardly any of you crank in information that takes into account the use of a Weight Distribution Hitch. Do these hitches make a difference or not? In other words, why spend in the neighborhood of $800 more or less for a WDH if it doesn't increase the towability of your rig?

[Ken / Claudia]

Brent, I see your in Oregon, being retired from OSP I will only say what I, we, did do and seen. We see many overloaded vehicles and vehicles combinations on the highways. Some get stopped and checked, the law is if your within 5 miles of any wt. station A police office can have you weighted. Some, many do not get checked, some get inspected after a crash. cites can be for over GVRW, unsafe vehicle operation, careless driving. We, normally did not cite if within 1,000 lbs of over wt. but, because people overload does not make in legal or safe. I have read a few tow tests and seen in print they tow at 75% of that is listed as max rating for all wt.s that might be a good place to try and buy a RV at to be safe.

[Festus2]

[QUOTE=OurLuckyPenny;158496]There seems to be little doubt that having a tow vehicle that exceeds all recommended weight/towing requirements is wise.

However, that being the case, why are many of the trailer manufacturers now, fairly recently, manufacturing extra-lite trailers and touting them as being safe to pull with 1/2 ton tow vehicles???

The general gist of the conclusions that most of the experienced moderators are offering is that no combination of trailer and 1/2 ton tow vehicle is safe! Is that the case?

Also, hardly any of you crank in information that takes into account the use of a Weight Distribution Hitch. Do these hitches make a difference or not? In other words, why spend in the neighborhood of $800 more or less for a WDH if it doesn't increase the towability of your rig?[/QUOTRV

RV manufacturers are no different from truck makers who "overstate" their vehicles' towing capacity. Both groups, as part of their advertising strategy, will promote their products and how easy it is for the consumer to pull this or that or is "1/2 Towable". Both will tell you as much as "they can get away with" while trying to stay legal and believable.

I don't think JRTJH is saying that you can't tow any RV with a 1/2T. There are properly equipped 1/2T's out there that can safely pull an RV that falls within the real towing capacity and payload of the tow vehicle.

In most instances having a WD hitch will make a significant different to the handling, especially the sway, of the rig.

[Brent1974]

Originally Posted by Ken / Claudia

Brent, I see your in Oregon, being retired from OSP I will only say what I, we, did do and seen. We see many overloaded vehicles and vehicles combinations on the highways. Some get stopped and checked, the law is if your within 5 miles of any wt. station A police office can have you weighted. Some, many do not get checked, some get inspected after a crash. cites can be for over GVRW, unsafe vehicle operation, careless driving. We, normally did not cite if within 1,000 lbs of over wt. but, because people overload does not make in legal or safe. I have read a few tow tests and seen in print they tow at 75% of that is listed as max rating for all wt.s that might be a good place to try and buy a RV at to be safe.

Ken,

I appreciate the information. Yes, I've seen similar information and agree. Good starting point. I am looking for a much lighter and shorter trailer because of my jeeps limitations. I NEED A BIGGER TRUCK. It's just been in the last few weeks that I've started to do some research. I appreciate forums like this, and people like you and John that have a lot to offer, because I am a novice at this, but I'm getting educated fast. I was in Aloha a couple of weeks ago at Curtis Trailer, they tried to sell me your trailer, 24RKSWE (27ft TT) Cougar 1/2 ton series. How would you of like to see me coming down the road at you in my jeep towing that trailer. I'm looking at something about 2,000 lbs lighter and 6 feet shorter because of this forum.

Thanks
Brent

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by OurLuckyPenny

There seems to be little doubt that having a tow vehicle that exceeds all recommended weight/towing requirements is wise.

However, that being the case, why are many of the trailer manufacturers now, fairly recently, manufacturing extra-lite trailers and touting them as being safe to pull with 1/2 ton tow vehicles???

The general gist of the conclusions that most of the experienced moderators are offering is that no combination of trailer and 1/2 ton tow vehicle is safe! Is that the case?

Also, hardly any of you crank in information that takes into account the use of a Weight Distribution Hitch. Do these hitches make a difference or not? In other words, why spend in the neighborhood of $800 more or less for a WDH if it doesn't increase the towability of your rig?

Let's see, how do I answer your comments and make sense of what Keystone, Ford, GM and Chrysler "claim" as "advantages to buying their product over the competition".....

First, Nobody has ever said (to my knowledge anyway) that half ton trucks can't tow travel trailers. I see them on the highway almost every time I travel on an interstate. How many of them are "legally within the design limits of the manufacturers (both RV and Tow Vehicle) Now that's an entirely different question.

Yes, Keystone and most other manufacturers of RV's claim to have a "half ton towable" RV line. If you read the very small print on every Keystone brochure, you'll see this: "Tow Vehicle disclaimer. CAUTION: Owners of Keystone recreational vehicles are solely responsible for the selection and proper use of tow vehicles. All customers should consult with a motor vehicle manufacturer or their dealer concerning the purchase and use of suitable tow vehicles for Keystone products. Keystone disclaims any liability or damages suffered as a result of the selection, operation, use or misuse of a tow vehicle. KEYSTONE’S LIMITED WARRANTY DOES NOT COVER DAMAGE TO THE RECREATIONAL VEHICLE OR THE TOW VEHICLE AS A RESULT OF THE SELECTION, OPERATION, USE OR MISUSE OF THE TOW VEHICLE."

Essentially what that statement does is remove any liability for trying to tow a Keystone RV with a Yugo. I know that sounds "trite" and "unaccommodating", but honestly, every manufacturer advertises their product to be the "best, most capable, most comfortable and easiest to tow".... Can they all honestly claim those features? NO, they can't.

Certainly, trailers in the "Cougar Half Ton" line are "half ton towable" Some may even be towable by any half ton truck. But to think that a F150 with a small V-6 and a GVW of 6800 pounds has the same "towability" as a F150HD with a EcoBoost, 8200 pound GVW and a Heavy Duty Tow package, just simply is comparing apples and oranges, or maybe better put, comparing Capable trucks to Incapable trucks... Sure, a "small half ton" can tow, but not at the same level as a "properly equipped" half ton. So, things simply aren't equal in the towing world. Attempting to tow a small 18' trailer behind that small V-6 will produce significantly different results than attempting to hitch a 33' "half ton" fifth wheel to the bed of the same truck. It simply will be overloaded, over-taxed and anyone attempting to tow that rig will likely not make it very far before they have some significant mechanical problems.... Is it a "half ton truck and a half ton trailer" ?? Yes, but certainly not a "half ton towable rig".... Properly equipped tow vehicles are capable of towing properly matched trailers, but not every vehicle is properly equipped for "anything you hitch to it"......

Now as for your question concerning WD hitches and what they do, if you'd have read my comments in post #47 of this thread (just about 3 posts up), you would have found the answer to your question. I won't repeat the answer here, but you might want to "read up" just 3 or 4 posts.

Lastly, your comment, "The general gist of the conclusions that most of the experienced moderators are offering is that no combination of trailer and 1/2 ton tow vehicle is safe! Is that the case?" is simply untrue. No moderator has ever said that no combination of trailer and half ton truck is unsafe. Hell, my previous rig was a half ton F150 with a Springdale fifth wheel. All the numbers and all the limits were well within Ford's and Keystone's guidance and I always felt safe in the rig.

I sense your frustration, but if you're going to make accusations, please, at least get the facts right......

Thanks

[DrFaustus]

I read through this post and thought that I should add my two cents. I have a 2014 321TBH Terrain by Outback. I currently tow my trailer with a 2011 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab, short box with the 5.3 Liter 3.42 Z71 and the HD Trailering Package. I installed a P3 Tekonsha Break controller and Towing Mirrors aftermarket. My truck comes with the Transmission cooler and the Engine cooler as part of the towing package. I have NO problems towing my rig with this truck. It sounds like you have a similar TV. My Truck has enough power to tow this trailer and then some.

I think you will be okay

Go and HAVE FUN

REVISION: APPARENTLY I have offended someone with my response. Do what you know your limitations are. Research it on your own and get the facts before getting on the road.

[Festus2]

Originally Posted by DrFaustus

My Truck has enough power to tow this trailer and then some.
I think you will be okay
Go and HAVE FUN

DrFaustus - I don't usually get into these kinds of discussions and instead sit back and read what others have to say. In this case, I am making an exception and will toss in my 2 cents and take off my Moderator's hat.

No disrespect intended but I couldn't disagree more with your comments.

First, what does having a P3 Tekonsha brake controller or after-market towing mirrors have to do with the towing capacity of your truck to tow anything? Nothing. Secondly, having a transmission and engine cooler are standard features of the towing package that you have. They do nothing to increase the towing capacity of your truck. I may be misreading your post but it sounds as if you are including these features to give the impression that they somehow enhance your truck's payload when in fact they do not.

Thirdly, just how much more trailer can your truck safely tow? You claim it has enough power to tow your 35 footer and "then some". What about 38 feet? 40 feet? Are these lengths within the "then some" parameters? There is a lot more to safe towing other than having "enough power" - something which you omitted from your reply.

Have you ever been to a weigh scale with your Silverado and TT? If so, I'd be interested in seeing the numbers if you would consider sharing them with us.

Frankly, I think you are giving the OP some questionable advice when you suggest that he will "be okay". Based on the scanty and incomplete information regarding the specifics of your towing situation ( weigh scale figures, pin weights, towing data from your TV and TT stickers, etc.) and then telling him that your TV's and towing situation are similar so he should be fine is just not on.

So, how can you, in good faith, tell him to "go and have fun"?

[Desert185]

With regard to sway and not payload, the addition of a rear anti-sway bar assists considerably in minimizing roll steer due to the trailer "sailing" in a crosswind or big rigs passing. Something to consider if one feels he or she is being pushed around while towing.

[Barbell]

I have not read every word of the comments about why towing with a 1/2 ton is not a good idea, but of what I have seen, they all come down to one thing that has not been mentioned. Sure, your V8 gas powered pickup can pull the
TT or FW at 70+ mph on the Interstate and maybe you can survive the crosswinds. BUT, can you stop your outfit? What do you do when the goofy driver in front of you suddenly decides he/she needs to make a left turn without signaling? Can you stop in time to avoid a rear-ender or can you swerve into another lane (assuming there is one) without contacting the vehicle beside you? Towing mirrors, four-wheel drive, 400 horsepower and all the other goodies are of absolutely no use in that situation. We pull a 36 ft Montana with a 3/4 ton diesel and there are some who say we don't have enough truck and they may be right, but I do know I can stop if I have to.

[gtsum2]

Payload capacity or lack thereof is the Achilles heal of most half tons. They can tow it, but many are at max payload capacity or over with a trailer around 7500lbs (counting the family in the truck and gear as well). I know firsthand as I had a 2013 ram 1500....I now have a 2014 ram 3500 cummins

[Ken / Claudia]

Barbell,
Part of the fed safety regs. not only says motor vehicles must have brakes but, those brakes must be able to stop the vehicle and trailer or load within xxx amount of feet at xx speed. If any vehicle is over loaded at some point the weight that vehicle is moving. The vehicle will not stop at those targeted distances. I think but, cannot prove it that part of the CGWR and GVWR considers that stopping distance. In your case you have the same brakes as a 1 ton with higher towing/payload. I guess one could say you have more brakes than needed but, is that not a good thing.
04-09 update Sorry guys, I did some checking and I am wrong about Fed regs including GVWR and CGVWR connecting them to required stopping distances. I asked a crash expert and he said Oregon has state law that is outdated but, lists required stopping distances for all vehicles at different speeds. Nothing in Fed regs that relates to this topic, I brought up.

[DrFaustus]

Originally Posted by Festus2

DrFaustus - I don't usually get into these kinds of discussions and instead sit back and read what others have to say. In this case, I am making an exception and will toss in my 2 cents and take off my Moderator's hat.

No disrespect intended but I couldn't disagree more with your comments.

First, what does having a P3 Tekonsha brake controller or after-market towing mirrors have to do with the towing capacity of your truck to tow anything? Nothing. Secondly, having a transmission and engine cooler are standard features of the towing package that you have. They do nothing to increase the towing capacity of your truck. I may be misreading your post but it sounds as if you are including these features to give the impression that they somehow enhance your truck's payload when in fact they do not.

Thirdly, just how much more trailer can your truck safely tow? You claim it has enough power to tow your 35 footer and "then some". What about 38 feet? 40 feet? Are these lengths within the "then some" parameters? There is a lot more to safe towing other than having "enough power" - something which you omitted from your reply.

Have you ever been to a weigh scale with your Silverado and TT? If so, I'd be interested in seeing the numbers if you would consider sharing them with us.

Frankly, I think you are giving the OP some questionable advice when you suggest that he will "be okay". Based on the scanty and incomplete information regarding the specifics of your towing situation ( weigh scale figures, pin weights, towing data from your TV and TT stickers, etc.) and then telling him that your TV's and towing situation are similar so he should be fine is just not on.

So, how can you, in good faith, tell him to "go and have fun"?

Festus2, with all due respect I think your attack of my response is inappropriate.

I was simply trying to describe my towing experience. You may feel free to go look up the towing capacities of my vehicle at your leisure. It is a 2011 Z71 with trailering package, tranny cooler and engine cooler 5.3 liter V8 with 3.42 rear end. My trailer is a 2014 Terrain by Keystone Ultra Light 321TBH. Again, you can lookup the specs at your leisure. I use a 14K Equalizer hitch and sway system. Yes my trailer is 35 foot and if the weight was right I sure would tow something longer and not think twice about it as long as it fit within spec.

You have completely misread my response and I think you owe me an apology or not cause frankly I could care less

I know my limitations, this isn't my first rodeo and I know what I'm doing in my towing situation.

[notanlines]

I also must "respectfully" disagree with the good doctor. I happened to notice
that you are doing your towing in West Virginia and probably surrounding area? Hmmm.....We tow from Memphis to Cumberland, Maryland on a regular
basis so are quite familiar with the terrain. This is also not my first rodeo, far from it. I have pictured in my mind following your rig up some of the West Virginia mountains, then watching you try to stop your 15,000 pounds coming down the other side.
Also, chill out just a little and enjoy being here. Part of the fun of coming here is the idea that people should be able to disagree with one another.

[DrFaustus]

Originally Posted by notanlines

I also must "respectfully" disagree with the good doctor. I happened to notice
that you are doing your towing in West Virginia and probably surrounding area? Hmmm.....We tow from Memphis to Cumberland, Maryland on a regular
basis so are quite familiar with the terrain. This is also not my first rodeo, far from it. I have pictured in my mind following your rig up some of the West Virginia mountains, then watching you try to stop your 15,000 pounds coming down the other side.
Also, chill out just a little and enjoy being here. Part of the fun of coming here is the idea that people should be able to disagree with one another.

Thanks notanlines. I do enjoy being in this forum and find lots of useful information in here. Since you are familiar with our terrain in Wild and Wonderful I am certain you have traveled Powell Mountain on more than one occassion. I have towed my TT on that mountain more than once and have had zero problems with it. Maybe I have a special build of truck or something but I haven't had any issues.

As a matter of fact I am steaming up to Hershey in July for Vacation with the Fam. Looking forward to it.

At any rate, I was merely suggesting to the OP that I tow successfully with my current rig.

To the OP just research and do what is safe for you and your situation.

[Javi]

It's all about reference and experience... If I have never towed my trailer with anything but a 1/2 ton pickup, then I have no reference or experience to base a comparison upon. Therefore what I see as good performance, may well be mediocre or even poor to another.