First time owners with some questions!!

[ffbsm85]

Just picked up our new Hideout 19FLB today. Couple questions:

1. The water drains: Where do people usually drain their extra fresh water when they're done camping? At the camp site? On the way home? Not until they get home?

2. Do we need to leave the caps on the drains (low point) when stored or leave them off to allow the tank to dry?

3. Does anyone know if the 19FLB has a water heater bypass? I read the users manual and am curious if I have one, I doubt it, but have no idea where to look for one.

4. We live in Norcal, should we leave a vent open when storing?

5. The users manual says to keep the black water valve open when using the flush system. I've watched some youtube videos on dumping and some people say to let your black water tank fill up a little after it's empty to try and get any of the remaining solids out. Whats everyone opinions on closing the valve for just a minute to let the tank fill a little then letting it dump again?

6. Batteries: I'm assuming not, but is my battery charger a smart/3 stage charger? Would I need to see what mondel/type is it? I figure it's just a normal trickle charge to the battery from a generator or hook ups. Also, does anyone take thier battery home and charge it with a smart/3 stage charger? I asked the dealer and he said probably just a trickle charge.

7. Water pump: Do you leave yours on when your in the camper? And if so, when it's not actively running, is it drawing any power off the battery? Dealer said no, but just seeing what the experts say

8. Door latch: Is there a better/good way to close the doors to preserve the latch? I asked the dealer and he said just slam it closed. Doesn't seem like thats going to preserve it. Does anyone like open the handle, close the door and then push it to latch it? Would that help?

I will probably have more questions, but I will post them as I think of them!! Thanks guys!!

[Festus2]

1. Depending on where you live and where you are camped, there may be bylaws prohibiting you from "dumping" your FW water on the ground. If I want to get rid of it at the campsite, I check with the management to see if they allow it. I don't dump it when I am driving home and I don't like to see others do it either. I am never sure what is actually coming out of the RV when it is going down the road and I see what looks like clean water but who knows what it might be.
If I am going out again soon afterwards, I'll leave it in the tank.

2. If the RV is in storage, I leave mine in the "OPEN" position but they are not removed from the lines. Not sure if you are talking about the FW tank drain or the Hot and Cold water lines low point drain. If you are talking about the FW tank, when I winterize I pour a bit of pink solution into the bottom of the tank.

3. Your unit should have a HW tank bypass. On most units, it is located right behind the tank and you may have to remove a panel or drawer to get to it.

4. I'm not familiar with NC weather enough to comment.

5. Closing the valve for a very short time won't cause any problems but sometimes people forget, walk away and come back and find a mess. I leave my valve open since I am one of those forgetful types.

6. Your converter is also has a battery charging feature where it applies a float charge to the battery. Your battery needs to be charged up regularly and if it is in storage, I would take it home and put a trickle charger on it. You can place the battery on concrete or cement ------ it won't hurt it. Long time ago when the battery case was more porous than those made today, it was not a good idea to place a battery on cement.

7. Turn your pump off when you leave your camper in storage. It won't draw any current if you leave on but why would you want your pump on? If you winterize, your lines will be filled with either air or RV antifreeze so there is no need for the pump to be on.

8. Not sure what you mean by "preserving the latch". I just "close the door" and lock it.

Hope this helps and welcome to the forum!! I thought a "couple" meant 2. Sorry, you've used up your quota of question for this month. LOL

[ffbsm85]

Originally Posted by Festus2

1. Depending on where you live and where you are camped, there may be bylaws prohibiting you from "dumping" your FW water on the ground. If I want to get rid of it at the campsite, I check with the management to see if they allow it. I don't dump it when I am driving home and I don't like to see others do it either. I am never sure what is actually coming out of the RV when it is going down the road and I see what looks like clean water but who knows what it might be.
If I am going out again soon afterwards, I'll leave it in the tank.

2. If the RV is in storage, I leave mine in the "OPEN" position but they are not removed from the lines. Not sure if you are talking about the FW tank drain or the Hot and Cold water lines low point drain. If you are talking about the FW tank, when I winterize I pour a bit of pink solution into the bottom of the tank.

3. Your unit should have a HW tank bypass. On most units, it is located right behind the tank and you may have to remove a panel or drawer to get to it.

4. I'm not familiar with NC weather enough to comment.

5. Closing the valve for a very short time won't cause any problems but sometimes people forget, walk away and come back and find a mess. I leave my valve open since I am one of those forgetful types.

6. Your converter is also has a battery charging feature where it applies a float charge to the battery. Your battery needs to be charged up regularly and if it is in storage, I would take it home and put a trickle charger on it. You can place the battery on concrete or cement ------ it won't hurt it. Long time ago when the battery case was more porous than those made today, it was not a good idea to place a battery on cement.

7. Turn your pump off when you leave your camper in storage. It won't draw any current if you leave on but why would you want your pump on? If you winterize, your lines will be filled with either air or RV antifreeze so there is no need for the pump to be on.

8. Not sure what you mean by "preserving the latch". I just "close the door" and lock it.

Hope this helps and welcome to the forum!! I thought a "couple" meant 2. Sorry, you've used up your quota of question for this month. LOL

Thank you for all of your responces!! Guess I should have been a little more specific. I don't believe I will have to winterize, but I will worry about that later. I am mostly asking just for summer storage in between trips.

In regards to #2 I have 3 caps I can take off 3 different lines under my TT. I was told 1 is for fresh water and the other 2 are for the lines. I'm asking if I should leave the caps on or off.

In regards to #7 I should have specified I ment when we are camping. I read that people will turn them off when they leave the TT, but leave it on when inside and if it runs when no faucet is open you know you have a leak. But was curious if it draws any battery power (assuming I'm not on shore power) when it's in its "standby/pressurized" state.

In regards to #8, we rented a just over a year old TT and it was very hard to open and close, like the latch would get stuck. I guess I just assumed that was from slamming it closed. Might just have needed to be oiled or something. But was just wondering if there was a better way to close TT doors to minimize the wear and tear on them.

Well it's a good thing it's almost June and I can ask 8 more questions!!!

[Javi]

Originally Posted by ffbsm85

Thank you for all of your responces!! Guess I should have been a little more specific. I don't believe I will have to winterize, but I will worry about that later. I am mostly asking just for summer storage in between trips.

In regards to #2 I have 3 caps I can take off 3 different lines under my TT. I was told 1 is for fresh water and the other 2 are for the lines. I'm asking if I should leave the caps on or off.

I don't drain the low point drains in warm weather unless I plan on storing the trailer more than a month between trips... I do drain the fresh water tank unless I'm headed out the next weekend... As for the Low Point Drain Caps.. I replace them when I finish draining them.. I also drain the Hot Water Heater if storing for more than a month during warm weather...

In regards to #7 I should have specified I ment when we are camping. I read that people will turn them off when they leave the TT, but leave it on when inside and if it runs when no faucet is open you know you have a leak. But was curious if it draws any battery power (assuming I'm not on shore power) when it's in its "standby/pressurized" state.

When we are leaving the camper for more than a couple of hours, I make it a point to turn off the city water and water heater. If we're boondocking I turn off the water pump and the water heater...

In regards to #8, we rented a just over a year old TT and it was very hard to open and close, like the latch would get stuck. I guess I just assumed that was from slamming it closed. Might just have needed to be oiled or something. But was just wondering if there was a better way to close TT doors to minimize the wear and tear on them.

A little graphite in the keyhole and in the latch bar will go a long way to make the latch easier to use... And we don't slam doors... Mom taught us not to with the judicious application of a peach limb on our backside...

Well it's a good thing it's almost June and I can ask 8 more questions!!!

Have a great camping season...

[Bugle Boy]

Looks like you got some good responses. I will add a couple comments.

We only turn our pump on when we need water pressure. We never leave it on. That's just a personal choice.

I'm old school and still place batteries on a board when removed from the vehicle. Batteries should never be left in storage without a tender to keep them fully charged.

One point that you did not ask about is a water pressure regulator. You should have one and it should be on the upstream end of the hose to protect your hose. I see many installed at the trailer end of the hose. I got a regulator with a pressure gauge at Camping World.

[SGardiner]

Just picked up our new Hideout 19FLB today. Couple questions:

1. The water drains: Where do people usually drain their extra fresh water when they're done camping? At the camp site? On the way home? Not until they get home?

We were instructed to drain the fresh water tank when not in use. We do it at the site. No point in hauling extra weight.

2. Do we need to leave the caps on the drains (low point) when stored or leave them off to allow the tank to dry?

We simply drain and cap. If left open some bugs / critters will get it.

3. Does anyone know if the 19FLB has a water heater bypass? I read the users manual and am curious if I have one, I doubt it, but have no idea where to look for one.

4. We live in Norcal, should we leave a vent open when storing?

We had Maxair vent covers installed and leave vents open an inch or so.

5. The users manual says to keep the black water valve open when using the flush system. I've watched some youtube videos on dumping and some people say to let your black water tank fill up a little after it's empty to try and get any of the remaining solids out. Whats everyone opinions on closing the valve for just a minute to let the tank fill a little then letting it dump again?

6. Batteries: I'm assuming not, but is my battery charger a smart/3 stage charger? Would I need to see what mondel/type is it? I figure it's just a normal trickle charge to the battery from a generator or hook ups. Also, does anyone take thier battery home and charge it with a smart/3 stage charger? I asked the dealer and he said probably just a trickle charge.

I disconnect the neutral when trailer is stored. In the winter I will put it in the basement.

7. Water pump: Do you leave yours on when your in the camper? And if so, when it's not actively running, is it drawing any power off the battery? Dealer said no, but just seeing what the experts say

I turn the water pump and water heater off when we leave the campsite. Otherwise it is on.

8. Door latch: Is there a better/good way to close the doors to preserve the latch? I asked the dealer and he said just slam it closed. Doesn't seem like thats going to preserve it. Does anyone like open the handle, close the door and then push it to latch it? Would that help?

Just "slam" it.

I will probably have more questions, but I will post them as I think of them!! Thanks guys!!

[Ken / Claudia]

I realize #1 was answered but, I have alittle more information. It is illegal in Oregon, others states I would think is the same but, can't say. Here we got calls almost daily about vehicles leaking something on the highways and had to dispatch troopers or other police to find them. The fear is of something toxic etc. When It turned out to be water I never cited, but others would. I let mine drain in the driveway at home.

[kc9ojn]

One more thing to think of, Keep Fridge open when not in use. It will save you coming beck to a mess later.

[ffbsm85]

Originally Posted by Bugle Boy

Looks like you got some good responses. I will add a couple comments.

We only turn our pump on when we need water pressure. We never leave it on. That's just a personal choice.

I'm old school and still place batteries on a board when removed from the vehicle. Batteries should never be left in storage without a tender to keep them fully charged.

One point that you did not ask about is a water pressure regulator. You should have one and it should be on the upstream end of the hose to protect your hose. I see many installed at the trailer end of the hose. I got a regulator with a pressure gauge at Camping World.

Do you mean when you are hooked up to city water for the pressure regulator?

[ffbsm85]

Thank you all for your advice!!

I have not been back to the camper yet, but I will look for the water heater bypass. I know the access door for it is on the back of my TT so I will start there. And I will look into the maxxair covers. I've decided to buy a 3-stage/smart charger for my battery and just keep it charged at home in between trips.

Feel free to continue to share your opinions/advice!! I'm sure I'll be back soon with more questions!!

[ffbsm85]

Well as soon as I finished that last post I think I found which converter I have and it does have the 3-stage (bulk/absorption/float) charger. So I will probably still get a home charger, but as I have a long list of new things that I need, I think that will go down a little on my list as I can charge my battery up the night before we leave on trips.

[Festus2]

Originally Posted by ffbsm85

Thank you all for your advice!!

I have not been back to the camper yet, but I will look for the water heater bypass. I know the access door for it is on the back of my TT so I will start there.

The water heater bypass will be on the inside of your TT not on the outside back.. If you look in the exterior access door to the HW tank, you will not find it. You should look on the other side - the interior side - of the tank which is accessible from the inside. As I mentioned before, you will have to remove a panel or drawer or something else to get to the back of your tank. The bypass valve should be located close to the back of the tank --- where the water lines go into and out of the tank.

[blackhound1]

One point that you did not ask about is a water pressure regulator. You should have one and it should be on the upstream end of the hose to protect your hose. I see many installed at the trailer end of the hose. I got a regulator with a pressure gauge at Camping World.

Really? Why do I need to protect my hose? I thought the water pressure regulator was to reduce the pressure to keep from damaging the travel trailer. Am I missing something here?

[Trent McCain]

I suppose it'd be possible to blow the end off a hose from too much pressure. I'm guessing its like wiring accessories to a battery, always install fuses as close to the battery to protect the circuit. Same with the regulator. Also it probably exerts less leverage on the city water connection. I install the reg on the hydrant, then the filter and the shortest hose that'll reach the coach. I have a faucet that screws on the city water fill and allows the hose to hang straight down without kinking. It also allows me to release the pressure in the hose after after turning the hydrant off.

Trent
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

[Festus2]

I believe folks place the regulator "upstream" not only to protect the RV's plumbing but also the hose itself. It's just an extra precaution in case the pressure does become excessive and would eliminate the need to purchase a new hose if this does happen. It would save you the expense of buying another hose. Having the regulator at the water supply end also results in having less weight and stress on the city water connection on the RV.

[blackhound1]

I guess I just read it wrong. I thought he was just trying to protect his hose. Thanks for the clarification Festus.

[djkrs2]

Can someone tell me what the maximum pressure at the trailer should be? I think I'd like to have a regulator with a gauge because sometimes it seems like we barely have any pressure. I'd like to know what it really is.

Thanks

[GMcKenzie]

Originally Posted by djkrs2

Can someone tell me what the maximum pressure at the trailer should be? I think I'd like to have a regulator with a gauge because sometimes it seems like we barely have any pressure. I'd like to know what it really is.

Thanks

Pretty sure you want 50 lbs max.

[djkrs2]

Thank you.

[TheBeans]

How'd things go for the rest of last year with your rig? Did you get all the answers you needed?