Geo cell ground grid

[NJ High Country]

Does anyone have experience with this product? I am building a new parking space in my yard and can’t pour a concrete pad. I’m interested in using this type of product to create the space. I’ve read Amazon reviews, but I feel like better info is shared on forums. Thanks in advance!
https://vodaland-usa.com/products/geo-grid-pavers

[bobbecky]

We've set up a parking area for our rig before, and just have a load of gravel hauled in and spread, but we weren't concerned about how pretty the spot was. I'd be concerned about what happens as the gravel settles, will the plastic grid collapse? You'll end up having to constantly add gravel as things settle. The last spot we set up, I had base rock brought in instead of just gravel or crushed rock, and it provided a much more stable surface.

[wiredgeorge]

Never saw a product like that but it could work. I would spread landscaping fabric on the ground under the product before filling with gravel. I think it would work best on bare ground and roll the grounds before setting those geo grid pavers.

[Mikendebbie]

I agree with Bobbecky. You have a big heavy rig. I don’t think this system offers support and stability on its own. In fact I think this system will be flexible not rigid. You will need some sort of crushed stone base beneath it. The base is what will hold it up and support your tires and stabilizer feet. This system is pervious - water will soak thru it and into your sub grade/ base. If you put it over grass in your front yard - most likely your tires will sink and rut right thru it. Since it is pervious - rain water will keep your “grass and lawn” wet, muddy and not a good surface to park or drive on.

Many municipalities allow this system BECAUSE it is pervious and does not cause storm water to run off into the city storm sewers or onto your neighbors property. Asphalt and concrete are IMPERVIOUS causing run off. Most cities limit the amount of impervious cover allowed on a piece of property. This stuff was not invented to provide instant strong pavement.

For your base - I don’t know the soil conditions in NJ. Let me illustrate my soil conditions. I live in “the black land Prarie” in central texas. There is 5’ to 60’ of gummy plastic back clay. Plastic means it swells when it is wet by 50% and it shrinks when it dries out. Wet goo sticks to your shoes and my truck can sink up to its axles. We have to add 9” to 16” of crushed limestone base placed over the compacted (wet) black clay in order to develop a base that will hold up heavy loads. The limestone base is stabile and strong. Asphalt becomes the surface treatment (like a paint) to shed water and offer a nice surface to ride on, but the asphalt does not improve the strength of the base. Likewise - concrete will fail if it is not built on a good base.

Let’s say your area is a sand area. Sand is not plastic like clay - but it’s like a bunch of ball bearings…like driving out on the beach. It has to be treated with water and compacted before it will hold up to loads.

If you live on a rocky area - that could be good. What is your area like when you drive your truck over wet ground? If you sink - then this system will not work for you in my opinion. If you were trying to create a surface for a walk path or a Toyota Corolla, it might be a good solution…not so good for a 14,000 lbs RV with point loads on 6 leveling feet and 4 tires. I think it wil rut and fail unless you address the base. Sorry to be so long winded - but you need to do more research before buying this stuff. Down on the coast in TX they use crushed shells for base because that is what they have. In East TX where I grew up they use crushed red iron ore rock for base - because that is what they have. There will be a native material from your area that is used for base.

[Mikendebbie]

Watch these two videos. These videos will help you understand why the base layer is important. They are selling a product to help strengthen your base layer and I am not advocating for this product. The second video has a simple guide for evaluating your subgrade to determine a base thickness. The subgrade is the native soil below your topsoil/lawn layer.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EHNA6qIfbY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mx-XEQ-EMWM

[Mikendebbie]

I did a little googling for New Jersey soils and got lots of hits dealing with run-off, pollution, farming, permitting...none of those will help much.

Here are some other resources to read about New Jersey soils...
Figure out what soils occur in your area and start looking for more specifics.

https://soilsmatter.wordpress.com/20...ls-new-jersey/

[JRTJH]

Check with your local county building permit office. They likely have records of previous building permits granted, built and inspected at your house, your neighbor's house and other construction on the same block as your house. They can, if they're willing, to give you the soil content, construction requirements and any requirements you must do to complete the job. They should be able to give you the specific requirements to build your pad in the neighborhood you live.

Granted, it may mean you will have to buy a permit to do the work, but paying $25 for a permit trumps a $500 fine and then having to rip it all out and start over after buying the permit.... YMMV

[NJ High Country]

I brought in 64 yards of clean fill and compacted it with a tamper in 8” increments. It’s very solid. I’m going to lay down and tamp a 3/4 stone base then install the geo cells. The machine I used to move dirt is 12,600lbs, almost as much as my camper. I figure 4 points of contact vs 10 points will have approximately 1300lbs per point including landing gear and tires. My soil is very good. Hopefully this will last for a few years until I have the funds to redo my driveway. Then everything will be concrete.

[JRTJH]

Not to be argumentative but rather cautious, looking at your existing concrete and all the corner cracks as well as major cracks in the photos would indicate that your soil base is not as firm as you might think. All those cracks "give pause" to what's underneath the concrete as well as to how the driveway was prepped and poured....

[Mikendebbie]

That looks good to me! You are doing it the right way!
Please take pics and post as you progress!

[flybouy]

A few observations, you can't compare the "points of contact" between a wheeled loader and a RV fiver by the number of points of contact. You have to compare contact AREA of each. That loader has tires with a very wide tread and soft sidewalls that spead the weight out on a large area. The reiler tires are rock hard and offer a very small (in comparison) contact patch. The jacks are even harder and the lbs/sq in. will be different. All that aside, the Jack's are of no value and do not factor in when you are parking or departing. I'd be more concerned with the 4 tires digging in, especially when turning in a tight radius.

I agree with John's observation on the driveway and note that the leader's tracks look to be several inches deep. Not trying to be negative but rather throwing out some opinions based on the very limited photos and information.

[wrvond]

Originally Posted by NJ High Country

Does anyone have experience with this product? I am building a new parking space in my yard and can’t pour a concrete pad. I’m interested in using this type of product to create the space. I’ve read Amazon reviews, but I feel like better info is shared on forums. Thanks in advance!
https://vodaland-usa.com/products/geo-grid-pavers

In Tennessee we called 'em "bricks". Dig up a few inches of ground, lay bricks down on their sides and let the grass grow back through the holes. Voila - a driveway that didn't turn to mush in the rain.

[cavecreeksteve]

I used an American product for my rv parking called BaseCore from Arizona here where I spend my winters. I would suggest them over the China grid mentioned both from a quality perspective, price and most importantly real customer service. Also look at seam strength like BaseCore had double welded seams, and much smaller cells so i could use the BaseCore HD 3" to load up to 32k lbs without any issues. I bought it from backyardbases.com.

Here is a video my buddy did in CA after seeing mine done :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FSo6swaWnHo

[dutchmensport]

You did not say what you are filling those plastic honey combs with. I think the success will depend on 2 things. 1) a good base under it, 2) the right filling material.

Anything you put down is going to sink in the ground. You'll be adding more on top eventually. Those plastic honey combs will break up under the load of the camper, regardless if you use sand, gravel, or dirt. They only thing that may keep them from breaking up is concrete itself. But, in due time, the concrete honeycombs will settle also, especially under the weight of the tires.

As someone stated above, your best option (really), is to use simple gravel. Put in a good base bed (larger stone), and then put smaller on top. Make a border edge to hold the stone in so it won't spread out, and it will look more decorative.

I did this exact thing at our house when we lived in town. It worked. It worked well. I laid about 8 inches of gravel (I did not have a base). Yes, it still sunk where the tires rested. I rake some of the loose gravel over the low spots when the trailer was pulled out. Eventually, the sinking stopped.

Now, we live in a completely different house in the country. The trailer sits on an asphalt drive way. Where the tires sit, closest to the edge, the asphalt has sunk (probably a total of 8 or 9 inches now). I keep adding more asphalt on top of that spot. It keeps sinking. About every year, I have to add another top layer, a couple inches. This is something similar to what I use: Click here.

My suggestion ... just use gravel with a timbered edge.

[cavecreeksteve]

My subbase was native soil as was my buddies. Put down the recommended thick non-woven geotextile from the company that I bought the BaseCore from, then put down the BaseCore then backfilled mine with 3/8 minus crushed rock about an inch over top then rented a plate compactor and compacted it. Just went through 6 inches of rain in 4 hours and no issues and most important no standing water when we pulled in. The thing drains quick .

[oldnjrver]

I put down 6 inches of ground concrete over our clay soil and it packed and set up to be very firm and remains so. Its worked for our truck and TT for the last 20 years with no settling issues. Just be sure to check the surface for any remaining re-bar bits.
Mine came clean with not a single piece of re-bar

Safe travels and all the best.