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Old 12-12-2021, 04:12 PM   #1
253Disc
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Electric Heat Kit

Looking to add the electric heat kit to my Coleman 45xxx ducted air conditioning. Wondering if anyone has done this with success. Appears to be plug and play but does anyone know if the in-command will auto pick it up or if programming will need to be done. This is on a 2021 Raptor 413. Any insight is appreciated.
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Old 12-12-2021, 04:51 PM   #2
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You will find that the electric heat doesn’t really produce much heat.
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Old 12-12-2021, 06:03 PM   #3
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Agree with chuck, The air coming from the vents will make the room feel drafty because the temperature rise may only be 8-9 degrees from the air temp entering the heating element. You'll have better results using ceramic heater(s) in a couple of places.
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Old 12-12-2021, 07:48 PM   #4
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The heat know kit is only about 1,500 to maybe 1,800 watts of heat. If you want real electric heat and no portable heaters look into RV Comfort Systems “Cheap Heat” this is an electric add on unit for your furnace. Provides 5,000 watts of electric heat through your heating ducts.
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Old 12-12-2021, 09:06 PM   #5
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Maybe

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Originally Posted by rhagfo View Post
The heat know kit is only about 1,500 to maybe 1,800 watts of heat. If you want real electric heat and no portable heaters look into RV Comfort Systems “Cheap Heat” this is an electric add on unit for your furnace. Provides 5,000 watts of electric heat through your heating ducts.

I found the link to cheap heat and watched the video of the inventor explaining in "pie in the sky" terms how his system works. A few qualifiers are worth mentioning. The inventor states there are 3 output settings with 5,000 BTUs being the highest. At the highest setting, 5,000 BTU output, consumes 5,000 watts. That's equal to more than 41 amps if wired to 120 volt source or a 240 volt supply consisting of 2 separate 25 amp breakers each located on opposite sides of the main breaker. Note: a common trip bar would need to connect the 2 breakers He (the inventor) implies that all the other systems on the camper, would still be able to run off a 50 amp shore power simultaneously with the electric cheap heat on the highest setting. Since the 12 volt furnace fan still needs to run in conjunction with the heat strips, the interior noise will be substantial. The biggest advantage to this guy's system, is it adds heat to the basement. There is no magic to electric resistance heat.....for each watt of consumption, 1 btu of heat is produced. In a residential heating system, each 5,000 watts of heat strips, raises the exit temperature 12 degrees. Example= air enters furnace at 70 degrees, exits 82 degrees. Installation of this system, would be beyond most person's DIY capability.

Bottom line, I'll use ceramic heaters, although I find the electric fireplace in the front of my camper pleasant to use.
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Old 12-12-2021, 09:52 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 253Disc View Post
Looking to add the electric heat kit to my Coleman 45xxx ducted air conditioning. Wondering if anyone has done this with success. Appears to be plug and play but does anyone know if the in-command will auto pick it up or if programming will need to be done. This is on a 2021 Raptor 413. Any insight is appreciated.
If you add the heat strip on, the folks at ASA Electronics will be happy to email you a new inCommand floorplan that includes it. You just put it on a thumb drive, stick it in the display socket, push a few buttons, and you're all set.
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Old 12-13-2021, 04:37 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firestation12 View Post
I found the link to cheap heat and watched the video of the inventor explaining in "pie in the sky" terms how his system works. A few qualifiers are worth mentioning. The inventor states there are 3 output settings with 5,000 BTUs being the highest. At the highest setting, 5,000 BTU output, consumes 5,000 watts. That's equal to more than 41 amps if wired to 120 volt source or a 240 volt supply consisting of 2 separate 25 amp breakers each located on opposite sides of the main breaker. Note: a common trip bar would need to connect the 2 breakers He (the inventor) implies that all the other systems on the camper, would still be able to run off a 50 amp shore power simultaneously with the electric cheap heat on the highest setting. Since the 12 volt furnace fan still needs to run in conjunction with the heat strips, the interior noise will be substantial. The biggest advantage to this guy's system, is it adds heat to the basement. There is no magic to electric resistance heat.....for each watt of consumption, 1 btu of heat is produced. In a residential heating system, each 5,000 watts of heat strips, raises the exit temperature 12 degrees. Example= air enters furnace at 70 degrees, exits 82 degrees. Installation of this system, would be beyond most person's DIY capability.

Bottom line, I'll use ceramic heaters, although I find the electric fireplace in the front of my camper pleasant to use.
You need to check your numbers. A typical space heater is 5,000 BTU @1,500 watts @120 vac.or about 12.5 amps. The 5,000 watt heater on a trailer with a 50 amp service would be wired to 240 vac. 5,000 ÷ 240 = 20.8 amps.

Induction heat is not a 1 watt = 1 btu ratio..
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Old 12-13-2021, 05:18 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firestation12 View Post
I found the link to cheap heat and watched the video of the inventor explaining in "pie in the sky" terms how his system works. A few qualifiers are worth mentioning. The inventor states there are 3 output settings with 5,000 BTUs being the highest. At the highest setting, 5,000 BTU output, consumes 5,000 watts. That's equal to more than 41 amps if wired to 120 volt source or a 240 volt supply consisting of 2 separate 25 amp breakers each located on opposite sides of the main breaker. Note: a common trip bar would need to connect the 2 breakers He (the inventor) implies that all the other systems on the camper, would still be able to run off a 50 amp shore power simultaneously with the electric cheap heat on the highest setting. Since the 12 volt furnace fan still needs to run in conjunction with the heat strips, the interior noise will be substantial. The biggest advantage to this guy's system, is it adds heat to the basement. There is no magic to electric resistance heat.....for each watt of consumption, 1 btu of heat is produced. In a residential heating system, each 5,000 watts of heat strips, raises the exit temperature 12 degrees. Example= air enters furnace at 70 degrees, exits 82 degrees. Installation of this system, would be beyond most person's DIY capability.

Bottom line, I'll use ceramic heaters, although I find the electric fireplace in the front of my camper pleasant to use.
Well as a happy user of the Cheap Heat system for over four years, all I can say is your have it all wrong.

#1. the highest setting is 5,000 watts, 1 watt equals 3.41 BTU, or an output of 17,050 BTU. Our gas furnace is 30,000 BTU, but at about 60% efficient, or 18,000 BTU.

#2. The 5,000 watt output is on a 50 amp 240 volt circuit, simply either tap the incoming circuit, or get a quad tandem 30/50 amp breaker.

#3. Yes, still have furnace noise, but even heat throughout the 5er.

#4. The system uses a 30 amp 240 volt breaker, draws about 23 amps on each leg when running. This is the breaker that gets you a 30 amp 240 volt circuit. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D...50CP/311939386

#5. As the son of a firefighter, I don't trust running 1,500 watt portable heaters on an RV outlet.

#6. We have been using the system for over four years. When on a 50 amp service, we use what ever we want on electric. WH on electric, Refer on electric, dehumidifier, heated mattress pad, hot pot, 1,500 watt electric fireplace. We also have used down to the mid-teens and heat to 70 in the 5er.

#7. When on a 30 amp circuit, it is like using A/C on a 30 amp circuit.

#8. DIY, well was a home owner for about 50 years, have done complete rewires, with permits and inspections a couple times, so that wasn't an issue.

I will say I feel far safer running this system on 30 amp 240 volt circuit with 10 gauge wire. Than running a 1,500 watt heater on likely 14 gauge wire, and RV style outlets, and minimal sized wire from heater to outlet.

Here is the link https://www.rvcomfortsystems.com/buy
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Old 12-20-2021, 05:33 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by 253Disc View Post
Looking to add the electric heat kit to my Coleman 45xxx ducted air conditioning. Wondering if anyone has done this with success. Appears to be plug and play but does anyone know if the in-command will auto pick it up or if programming will need to be done. This is on a 2021 Raptor 413. Any insight is appreciated.
I see you are from the PNW, are you a year round camper? Something a little expensive than Cheap Heat, but secure electric you could look into a unit or two like this. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Cadet-Pe...101B/202883396

These would put heat where it belongs near the floor, also hard wired on correct sized wire and placed on a dedicated breaker. just another option. If you look these can be found in 1,500 watt units, and 120 or 240 volts.
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Old 12-20-2021, 06:02 AM   #10
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"
#4. The system uses a 30 amp 240 volt breaker, draws about 23 amps on each leg when running. This is the breaker that gets you a 30 amp 240 volt circuit. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D...50CP/311939386"

That is an interesting breaker. Does it feed your original 50 Amp panel without modification and also provide you a way to connect a 30 Amp, 240 volt circuit?
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Old 12-20-2021, 06:14 AM   #11
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"
#4. The system uses a 30 amp 240 volt breaker, draws about 23 amps on each leg when running. This is the breaker that gets you a 30 amp 240 volt circuit. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D...50CP/311939386"

That is an interesting breaker. Does it feed your original 50 Amp panel without modification and also provide you a way to connect a 30 Amp, 240 volt circuit?
Yes, it replaces the 50 amp main.
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Old 12-20-2021, 06:40 AM   #12
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Yes, it replaces the 50 amp main.
I don't need a 240 volt circuit myself but I occasionally see threads with people rigging up subpanels, etc and this would be a far simpler solution.
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Old 12-23-2021, 10:30 AM   #13
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Our main AC is also a heat pump which heats it very well but a bit noisy in colder weather when it goes into defrost mode. Considerably more efficient than electric heat, in some areas more efficient than you propane furnace BUT it does not heat the basement.
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