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Old 11-28-2021, 11:45 AM   #1
bigdave_185
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Dicor roof sealant

I have a the two tone rubber roof and some of the exhaust vents have some cracking in the self leveling product from the factory

Anyone have good recommendations for a diy video of prep and reseal for this? I was going to use the dicor lap sealant from my local Rv store $10.99 a tube and seal every thing again while I’m up there.

Any help would be great. Thanks
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Old 11-28-2021, 11:54 AM   #2
chuckster57
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Just clean the area good with a non petroleum product. I use Fantastik, let dry and cover with new dicor.

If it’s cracked real bad, then you can use a putty knife to remove the old sealant and reseal.
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Old 11-28-2021, 01:09 PM   #3
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Keystone uses Alpha TPO roofs. Here is a manufacturer video on maintenance:

https://youtu.be/it2ZIKs821k
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Old 11-28-2021, 01:10 PM   #4
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I have a couple of sets of plastic scrapers of various sizes; look like putty knives sort of. The sharp edges of a metal scraper/putty knife can zip right through EPDM/TPO if gets away from you. I clean it good then scrub it good with alcohol or you can use a non petroleum cleaner that doesn't need to be rinsed off. Don't know how much you want to clean and seal but you might want to get a couple of tubes anyway.....then apply liberally!!
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Old 11-28-2021, 01:58 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wyldfire View Post
Keystone uses Alpha TPO roofs. Here is a manufacturer video on maintenance:

https://youtu.be/it2ZIKs821k
You are correct in your statement as it applies to "current Keystone RV products, but when the OP's 2008 trailer was built, TPO roofing material had not yet been developed and Alpha Systems had not been created.. His trailer has a Dicor EPDM rubber roof.

DICOR has an excellent "RV Owners" section: https://dicorproducts.com/resourcesrudys/
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Old 11-29-2021, 10:55 AM   #6
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Clean and apply it is. Does anyone know if this stuff will cure in colder temps or do I need to get it into my shop?
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Old 11-29-2021, 11:58 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdave_185 View Post
Clean and apply it is. Does anyone know if this stuff will cure in colder temps or do I need to get it into my shop?
How cold? I have applied in 40 degree weather. It levels out real slow, and takes a long time to cure.
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Old 11-29-2021, 12:23 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by bigdave_185 View Post
Clean and apply it is. Does anyone know if this stuff will cure in colder temps or do I need to get it into my shop?

Here's a link to a conversation about this topic from rv.net;

https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/f...print/true.cfm

I think the key things I would think about would be keeping the tubes warm so the dicor will come out more easily and set up/cure time if it's cold. When warm the self leveling will just "ooze" right out into a nice smooth layer no matter how jerky the application process may have been, when it is too cold it may not want to "ooze" so good. In optimal weather Dicor says it can take up to 30 days to fully cure and from my experiences that's probably pretty close.....ie; don't step on it 3 days later.
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Old 11-29-2021, 05:29 PM   #9
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We have been getting in the 50’s this week, I’ll get her cleaned and of course like any tube glue warm in the house lol heat vent register removed works well also.

Thank you folks. Onto the next wondering question


The tank valves seem really really stiff!

I’ll post about it in my trailer post
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Old 11-30-2021, 07:59 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdave_185 View Post
We have been getting in the 50’s this week, I’ll get her cleaned and of course like any tube glue warm in the house lol heat vent register removed works well also.

Thank you folks. Onto the next wondering question


The tank valves seem really really stiff!

I’ll post about it in my trailer post

Dave, If you tank valves are stiff (normal for any older camper), can you get to the valves? If so, take a 1/8" drill bit and make a hole towards the top of the handle in the body of the valve. You can then insert a straw and lube using your favorite lubricant. I use Liquid Wrench silicon. Then screw a sheet metal screw in a bit to fill the hole and they loosen right up.
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Old 11-30-2021, 12:24 PM   #11
bigdave_185
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Dave, If you tank valves are stiff (normal for any older camper), can you get to the valves? If so, take a 1/8" drill bit and make a hole towards the top of the handle in the body of the valve. You can then insert a straw and lube using your favorite lubricant. I use Liquid Wrench silicon. Then screw a sheet metal screw in a bit to fill the hole and they loosen right up.

Do you have a photo of this? That would be terrible to “screw” that up lol

Yeah I need to pull the belly pan and put insulation in. Someone took it all out.
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Old 11-30-2021, 02:25 PM   #12
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My tanks are open underneath except for the galley tank and it has Darco or whatever that stuff is called covering. All my valves are easy to get to. I am poor and have an old camper. I changed the gate valve for the galley tank a couple years ago but to change the black or gray tank would mean unbolting both to gain some space so the two flanges around the valves could be moved apart. I have the valves but have not had the ambition to crawl under the black tank and replace the valve... some of it is because you are under the black tank gate valve when you separate it from the other side and the thought is less than appealing. Perhaps I can talk my BIL into doing it hehehe

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