Amperage question

[bbells]

POBOYPCB is absolutely right. Look at the specs on your AC and note the watts. 15x120=1800 watts. 15x115=1700 watts. 15x110= 1650 watts. If you are not sure about your wattage, check with the mfr. You should also put a voltmeter in one of your outlets and do the math with the voltage that shows when the ac is running. IMHO, most camper 13,500btu AC units are about 3000 watts to startup and 1800-2000 watts to run. When I turn mine on at home the power in the line drops from 120 to 109v. This could damage the ac so I don't run it.

[cenders]

Originally Posted by Cheryl

Our trailer is 30 amp and I have an adapter for when I only have a site with 15 amp power. My question is; can I run the air conditioner in this situation?

Thanks

Cheryl, the simple answer is to just try it. There will be no harm to components to turn it on and see if it runs on 15amps. Worst case, it trips the breaker. The AC in our Fuzion runs on 15 amps and I can run both units on 30 amps. I do it all of the time.

If it runs without tripping the breaker you'll probably have to keep the fridge on propane, but again, try it.

[JimMSCL]

Many people where I go in FL swear by Easystart364 by Micro-Air. Different, supposedly more advanced than soft start capacitor. Good you tube video actually showing amp draw on a base unit, soft start and easy start. IF I had the issue, video would make me want to buy one! It does cost 300 though. I have no experience with and no ties to the company so investigate on your own.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by Oldmopar

We just had a new house built, so everything electrical is new and just inspected by the county. We had to live in our RV outside for a couple of weeks while the finishes were done. I tried to hook up to a 15amp plug. The A/C would run for a few minutes, then blow the breaker. So, I found a 20amp plug and tried it, it did the same thing. Nothing I tried would let the A/C run for more than 10 min.
I finally went to the hardware store, got a dryer plug, cut off one leg and wired it to a female RV 30amp plug. Plugged my RV in and everything worked like a champ.

I think the issue is the battery charger would come on and pull the extra amps overloading the breaker.

I even tried to run it off my Generator. However it is dual fuel and on Propane it just kept overloading. I have never run it on gas, was avoiding the mess and smell, but looks like I will have to go that way.

That is an EXTREMELY dangerous act. What you have done is remove the neutral and use the ground as a neutral. You now have a high current device with no safety against the potential for electrocution.

[Brentw]

Originally Posted by flybouy

That is an EXTREMELY dangerous act. What you have done is remove the neutral and use the ground as a neutral. You now have a high current device with no safety against the potential for electrocution.

Not sure that is the case, OP indicated that he cut off 1 leg, which should leave him 1 hot , 1 neutral and a ground.
Perhaps he can confirm.

[Racebug]

sounds like it is plugged into a 30 amp 230 volt outlet (welder or dryer style) correct? with 1 leg cut it would just be 120 volt 30 amp with ground acting as neutral?

[Brentw]

Right, Depends on what he is plugged into, most welders are 240 v ( 2 hot and a ground) , this would be a bad deal to use this receptacle. Common dryer receptacles are 120/240 volt ( 2 hots, 1 neutral and ground). So depending on the combination you can get 120 or 240 v grounded supply if using 3 wires.
He has indicated that it is working well, so i think it is safe to assume that he is not sending 240 to his rig.

Not really enough info to guess what he has connected to.