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Old 06-10-2018, 09:55 AM   #41
slickster
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missing power somewhere

Quote:
Originally Posted by kdorsett View Post
We just bought a 2012 Keystone Bullet. Had it plugged to shore power (regular outlet) this week to give a good cleaning. Everything worked great, initially. Yesterday the ac and clock on the microwave quit working. I can hear the AC click, but won't blow air. I've checked all of the fuses, and checked all of the breakers. Nothing seems to be wrong there. Slide out works fine. Any thoughts?
I am new at this also. But may I suggest contacting Keystone, with your registration in hand, and tell them your situation? They should be able to assist you. Just a thought.
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Old 06-10-2018, 09:57 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by slickster View Post
I am new at this also. But may I suggest contacting Keystone, with your registration in hand, and tell them your situation? They should be able to assist you. Just a thought.
Probably want to read the thread. It appeared the OP found their problem; using too small a gauge extension cord which melted.
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Old 06-10-2018, 10:11 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slickster View Post
I am new at this also. But may I suggest contacting Keystone, with your registration in hand, and tell them your situation? They should be able to assist you. Just a thought.
Additionally, contact your dealer, not Keystone..... Just as you wouldn't call GM's customer service to complain that your truck is blowing a fuse (you'd go to the dealer) it's the same with your travel trailer..... Your dealer is the initial point of contact. If you can't get satisfaction with the dealer, then contact Keystone (not for repair work) to report the problems with the dealer.
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Old 06-10-2018, 10:27 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slickster View Post
I am new at this also. But may I suggest contacting Keystone, with your registration in hand, and tell them your situation? They should be able to assist you. Just a thought.

Having tried the "contacting Keystone" bit myself several times, the usual response from Keystone is "contact your dealer" when inquiring about specific problems, which doesn't help that much when the selling dealer is distant, non-responsive, and perhaps not even a Keystone dealer if you've purchased a used unit. Keystone factory customer service would definitely NOT try to trouble-shoot this type of problem with you!



Keystone factory customer service will sometimes provide "generic" information common to the entire Keystone line or a specific model (e.g., Passports).


Just my .02 worth from experience.
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Old 06-10-2018, 10:55 AM   #45
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While shopping for a heavy duty cord you need to also get a surge protector/EMS & be sure it's ALWAYS plugged in whether at home or any campground.
Just curious, you had to use some sort of adapter to connect your 30 amp into a 20 amp plug, hopefully it wasn't the hock puck looking adapter, they are notorious for overheating & melting (see photo).
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Need this type.
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Old 06-10-2018, 10:59 AM   #46
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I can’t think of any RV I’ve ever run across that the air conditioner requires less than a 30 amp power source. Check the power panel inside the RV. It should contain fuses for the 12 volt DC devices and circuit breakers for the AC circuits. If there is a breaker in there labeled for Air Conditioner, and it’s bigger than 20 amp, you probably need at least a 30amp power source. You didn’t mention what power cord was attached to your unit. The plug end (check online for the differences between 20, 30, and 50 amp RV plugs. I once had a Coleman Popup tent camper that didn’t have air conditioning but was pre-wired for it. It had a 30 amp RV cord.
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Old 06-10-2018, 01:25 PM   #47
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This is a good forum for your questions. You might consider joining tge Facebook group called "Keystone Bullet Owners Group as well. It's a very active and friendly group for Bullet owners.
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Old 06-10-2018, 01:39 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by Old Mustanger View Post
Just wanted to add my 2 cents .... IMO you should never run the AC or Microwave when connected to a 20 Amp service, that is just asking for trouble.
No it's not. A 15KBTU AC will draw a little less than 15A, and will run fine by itself on a 20A circuit. Where most people get in trouble is using undersized cable for power cords.
The minimums are
15A #14
20A #12
30A #10
50A #6
These figures are good up to 50Ft. For a longer run go up a size.
Check the connectors on the cords and trailer periodically.If you see ANY darkening or discoloration, replace it. I've been in the marine repair industry long enough to tell you that electrical components is not where you want to cheap out.
Also stay away from the little hockey puck adapters.
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Old 06-10-2018, 01:42 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by LZScout View Post
I can’t think of any RV I’ve ever run across that the air conditioner requires less than a 30 amp power source. Check the power panel inside the RV. It should contain fuses for the 12 volt DC devices and circuit breakers for the AC circuits. If there is a breaker in there labeled for Air Conditioner, and it’s bigger than 20 amp, you probably need at least a 30amp power source. You didn’t mention what power cord was attached to your unit. The plug end (check online for the differences between 20, 30, and 50 amp RV plugs. I once had a Coleman Popup tent camper that didn’t have air conditioning but was pre-wired for it. It had a 30 amp RV cord.
Look around and you will see plenty of them. Though the trailer is powered by 30A service, the circuit breaker for the AC is going to be 20A, therefore the AC only requires 20A if it is the only appliance in operation.
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Old 06-10-2018, 05:45 PM   #50
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Thanks everyone for all of your help! That was the problem. Cord wasn’t heavy duty enough for what I was trying to do. We did our first camping trip this weekend and it all went well. Everything worked just fine, we were very lucky that I didn’t cause damage. By the way.... the light to show the fridge is on is orange on AC and it worked fine all weekend
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Old 06-12-2018, 02:33 PM   #51
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Regarding Air Conditioner Amperage.

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Originally Posted by 14george View Post
Can’t Romberg how many amps ac pulls if your trying to run ac hot water tank microwave at same time you could be overloading circuit
It's about 16.1 amps on high cool (max). I've ran them off 20 amp generator circuits but nothing else can be ran such as micro-wave, electric water heater or anything with a good amount of current needed to run it.
Sounds like there's no AC power coming to RV. The clicking from thermostat relay and slide out room are running off 12 volt house battery. The thermostat uses 12 volts to control the furnace and relays are switching on the AC power to the aircondtioners fan & compressor circuits. So you ll hear the click of the relays when you got 12 volts but no AC shore power.
Check breaker box feeding your power cord at house. Plug something like a light into the outlet to verify that you have power there. Hope this helps.
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Old 06-21-2018, 12:34 AM   #52
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I think you need to verify that you actually have 120 volts shore power.
You need to check the breakers at your house. I doubt that theres any problems with the RV power system other than you've got no shorepower.
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