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Old 03-27-2018, 08:32 AM   #21
rhagfo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
Frank,

Chrysler, just like Ford and GM, advertise "BS" in their charts. You posted a link to the RAM towing charts and speak of "the gospel" (truth ????) about SAE J2807 towing standards. Those standards, just like everything before them, is only as good as the documentation presented to the consumer.

Examples from the chart you posted:

LINE 1 (first truck in the chart):

GVW: 9000 PAYLOAD: 2680 GCWR: 18300 MAX TLR: 11510

When doing the math, if the truck is at GVW, with a GCWR of 18300, the max trailer weight is 9300, not 11510.

LINE 5 (first diesel in the chart):

GVW: 10000 PAYLOAD: 2630 GCWR: 24300 MAX TLR: 16450

Doing the math on this one, if the truck is at GVW, with a GCWR of 24300, the max trailer weight is 14300, not 16450.


Every truck listed is "advertised in the Chrysler chart" well above the "true max towing rating".... Chrysler's "sleight of hand" is that they deduct the payload from the trailer rating. They do this by "SAE certification" that excludes the payload from the max trailer rating.

There is NO WAY to tow a trailer without having "payload" exerted on the truck. So, is it "false advertising" or is it "using different conditions to maximize the chart"???

The OP's truck, just like every other truck, has optional equipment (not included in the chart "base model" that will decrease the "maximum rating" that is depicted in the chart. Adding spray in bed liner, running boards, electric windows, floor mats, etc, all add weight to the "base model truck" and decrease the payload, which also decreases the max trailer rating, (IF YOU FOLLOW THE GCWR) from the maximum rig weight.....

Every manufacturer reflects their advertising with similar charts, every manufacturer "lies" by advertising the maximum trailer rating with an empty truck, a condition that simply can't be accomplished. Consumers really need to actually look at the chart and analyze it, not just pick a number and expect that it will "stand on its merit" as an individual rating. All of the ratings matter and all of the ratings affect each of the other ratings.
Your math above is flawed!
If the TV with 5er attached is supporting the pin to get to 10,000# the pin weight is part of the Max trailer, so if the pin is 2,150# then max trailer is 16,450#.
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Old 03-27-2018, 08:39 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Bolo4u View Post
Adding your "normal" camping cargo to the basement can add some pin weight and may help with the chucking. As Norske indicated, if the trailer is nose high, it may be part of why you're feeling it more. The pin on our Cougar 333MKS is rigid and I run a cushion disk in between the pin plate and hitch plate. It's a generally smooth ride. Also, if there isn't a lot of cushioning built into the hitch, some on the chucking may be getting amplified through the hitch/frame and into your truck frame.


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Just curious, what is the "cushion disk" you're referring to? If it's the Teflon disc, that's just so no grease is necessary, has no cushioning.
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Old 03-27-2018, 08:44 AM   #23
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Switch to the Trail Air Flex Air pin box, best of both, shock/air bag plus Roto Flex plate. Or scrap the Reese hitch for a Comfort Ride hitch.
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Old 03-27-2018, 09:14 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by travelin texans View Post
Just curious, what is the "cushion disk" you're referring to? If it's the Teflon disc, that's just so no grease is necessary, has no cushioning.


Yes that's what I use, I should have clarified, my bad. With that said, while it's not designed to provide cushioning, it does eliminate the metal to metal contact, which can be a form of cushioning.


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Old 03-27-2018, 09:19 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by travelin texans View Post
Attachment 15769

Attachment 15770
Switch to the Trail Air Flex Air pin box, best of both, shock/air bag plus Roto Flex plate. Or scrap the Reese hitch for a Comfort Ride hitch.
This is the replacement that we're looking at.
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Old 03-27-2018, 11:04 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Chief Mole View Post
This is the replacement that we're looking at.
Make sure when purchasing that you get one with the same weight rating as your factory pin box. I believe they come in 18K and 21K ratings. Actually been looking at one in the 21K rating for my RV. Just haven't pulled the trigger yet.
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Old 03-28-2018, 05:52 AM   #27
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We have a 16K Reese hitch with the round tube slider mounted on industry standard bed rails. We use a lube disc. There is very little chucking - sometimes we feel a liitle bump on rough bride approaches. I do get some vertical movement within the slider (usually on speed bumps in camp grounds) but nothing on the road that will make you spill your coffee.
I would ensure that you are towing level and all components of your hitch assembly are tight. Load the rig as you would for a trip, then swing by a scale and get the weights of your steering, drive, and trailer axles to determine how balance you are loaded. BTW, the TV's ride was greatly improved by adding Bilsteins.
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Old 03-28-2018, 06:20 AM   #28
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To all who were helpful with recommendations on the hitch issue, my sincere thanks. After being in TT's for the last 15 years and just picking up the 5er this last January, I'm not sure what is and, more importantly, in NOT normal when towing.

To those who got all caught up with what they think my truck can and can not tow, how I should set the (non-existent on my truck) OEM brake controller and how every single SAE J2807 chart and vehicle manufacturer towing recommendations are a bunch of lies without even asking about what my truck is: Perhaps you should read and, more importantly, answer the OP question rather than getting into a genital size argument with the poster above you. You were as helpful as a sandpaper covered personal massager. And if you think that is helpful, ask your lady friend to explain why it isn't. Be sure to ask her to use little words so you'll be better able to comprehend what she says and means.
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Old 03-28-2018, 07:15 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chief Mole View Post
To all who were helpful with recommendations on the hitch issue, my sincere thanks. After being in TT's for the last 15 years and just picking up the 5er this last January, I'm not sure what is and, more importantly, in NOT normal when towing.

To those who got all caught up with what they think my truck can and can not tow, how I should set the (non-existent on my truck) OEM brake controller and how every single SAE J2807 chart and vehicle manufacturer towing recommendations are a bunch of lies without even asking about what my truck is: Perhaps you should read and, more importantly, answer the OP question rather than getting into a genital size argument with the poster above you. You were as helpful as a sandpaper covered personal massager. And if you think that is helpful, ask your lady friend to explain why it isn't. Be sure to ask her to use little words so you'll be better able to comprehend what she says and means.
Chief,

While I still find this forum helpful, there are those Self Appointed Weight Police on this board (And some of them are moderators). They like to make their own assumptions about your truck's capabilities and what you plan to carry around...and then go on to scold people based on their own assumptions rather than the reality that is your own setup.

I agree a lot of people overestimate the capabilities of their particular setup...but occasionally, some people might actually know what they are doing and have more information than the aforementioned weight police.
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Old 03-28-2018, 08:10 AM   #30
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And, with the last two comments, since it now has the potential to become "explosive" and before members who have been "criticized for having an opinon" post their responses and inflame the thread even further, as a member of the site team and a member of the weight police, since the OP has stated he now knows all he needs to make appropriate adjustments/repairs to his "chucking problem", this thread is closed.
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