Freezer freezes, refrigerator won't get cold.

Steve079 · 06-22-2017, 08:26 PM

Just got back from a week long dry camping trip in our new 2017 Keystone Springdale 179 BQES. Ran into a problem, that didn't present it self while plugged into shore power on our first trip, which had full hookups. The freezer got cold enough to freeze, but the refrigerator struggled to keep the temp in the mid 50's. I adjusted the thermister all the way up to the coils, and to a few spots in between, but it didn't make much of a difference. I also tried running it on auto, and then just on gas, but that made no difference.
My daughter has the same unit, a Dometic 2652, and hers ran 42 degrees. What can i do to track down the problem, or should I let my dealer resolve it?
Thanks!

bsmith0404 · 06-23-2017, 03:45 AM

It's new and under warranty, why bother with it yourself. Take it to the dealer and have them make it work. I'd also tell them you want to see it working with the trailer parked outside in the heat, not just in their workshop. Just because something is new doesn't mean it's not bad.

Steve079 · 06-23-2017, 01:00 PM

The dealer is 140 miles away, round trip. If the problem was a bad thermister, (for example) I could replace it myself for less then the gas to drive 1 way.

As an update, with my unit leveled out and plugged into shore power, the refer is running at 39 degrees. I switched it to gas a bit ago, and its slowly going up in temp. now at 48. The chimney is hot, the tubing feels warm, but the sun is directly on the side where the refer is located. I can't see a pilot light, its pretty well concealed with no sight window.

**chuckster57** · 06-23-2017, 01:15 PM

There won't be a sight window. If it's a Dometic the flame will be behind two wind shields. You have to pull back the tall shield and put your head "just so" to see the flame.

If you blow like your blowing out a candle, it should spark and then re light. You might be able to "hear" the flame. You should be able to easily remove the "outer" shield. If you get eyes on the flame, make sure it's blue and about clean. I've seen the burners get crud on them and not burn properly.

When ambient temps get above 100, RV refers have a difficult time. I put a fan in mine the week I bought it, you might want to consider it.

Steve079 · 06-23-2017, 02:13 PM

It is a Dometic unit. I'm running the AC inside, to see what happens with that running; I know trying to run a refer in high temps isn't good. I noticed just a bit ago, that the thermister was down at the bottom of the sleeve it sits in, I slid it up and put it back at the top, so I'll we what that does.
I called the service deptment where it was purchased; his advice was to slide the thermister all the way up, and give it 4-6 hours. I had just discovered what I described above, so we will see.

What type of fan are you referring too? A vent fan? Something in the cabinet housing above or below the unit? The side where the refer is located is right in the sun now, so I'm done fooling with it until it cools off.

**chuckster57** · 06-23-2017, 02:22 PM

I have one like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-A10-...ridge+vent+fan

Mounted inside the lower access panel and it blows air up across the entire cooling unit. Last trip out, sitting in 100+ degree heat it kept the Klondike bars solid.

**JRTJH** · 06-23-2017, 03:11 PM

Another possibility, if the flame appears good and a fan doesn't help, is the flue baffle. Inside the "heat chimney" is a twisted piece of steel. It hangs in the chimney and supposedly "spins the heat" to cause it to be more efficient in heating the ammonia/sulphur/hydrogen mixture. The baffle is "suspended" from a wire at the top of the chimney and there is a cap over that. I've seen times where the refrigerator was laid on its side or when people use the "folk rumored repair" of turning the refrigerator on it's top overnight, supposedly to dislodge any 'solid blockage" in the cooling system. Yes, it works, but only until that "solid chip of sulphur" makes its way back to the orifice. Usually it takes a couple of weeks for that to happen, so the "folk legend" survives because people do see a "fix" even though it's only temporary...

Anyway, back to the baffle. If all else fails, you might want to check to be sure the baffle is positioned correctly. The baffle is item #115 in the Dometic 2652 Parts manual.

Outback 325BH · 06-23-2017, 04:38 PM

If it works on electric, the thermistor isn't the problem.

Both electric and propane heat the same boiler, so if it works on electric but not on propane, is is a propane circuit problem and not a cooling unit problem.

Should be easy to narrow down.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Steve079 · 06-23-2017, 06:41 PM

It has me scratching my head. I can see blue flame, but on propane, after 4-5 hours, the freezer is 6 degrees, and the fridge is 66. the area where the flame is, (boiler?) is hot to the touch, I feel heat coming out of the roof vent, the black metal tubes (condenser lines?) are also warm.
The holes in the roof vent that the screws run down thru, are sealed with silicone. I'd have to pull that out to check down the chimney.

So frustrating...

**chuckster57** · 06-23-2017, 06:44 PM

Okay, I hate to say it, but it's time for a visit. The dealer needs to check gas pressure at the fridge to verify a strong flame. It is lighting and that's good, but it might not be burning hot enough. I won't go into the process here as it requires the use of a manometer and that's not common in RV tool boxes.

Steve079 · 06-23-2017, 06:56 PM

Quote:

Okay, I hate to say it, but it's time for a visit.

You're right. When the tech at the dealership told me to adjust the thermister, before they set up anything, (which I had already done) but now its done and I have photos to document the temps of both the freezer and refer, on both gas and power.
Since the shore power gets converted to 12 v before it hits the refer, I wonder why it works so much better plugged in then on the batteries or propane?

**chuckster57** · 06-23-2017, 07:00 PM

12V only powers the control board. If you look, there is a cord plugged into an outlet on the side.

When plugged into shore power, if the fridge is set to AUTO, the control board will send 110VAC to the heating element. Look at the insulated chimney and the cord for the heating element will be easy to see. It hooks to the control board and 110V in goes to the board on separate connections.

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