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If your fresh water tank is NOT filled by a gravity fill port, instead you need to attach the garden hose and flip the valve from normal run to "fill", you need to make sure that valve is set back to the normal run position and NOT on fill. Otherwise, your pump will cycle, exactly as you described.
Also, if you have a winterizing port, that valve needs to be in the Off position too, not on winterize. If it's on winterize, your water pump will attempt to suck water from that port and all it will get is air.
Unless you have installed a water pressure tank yourself on your camper, your water pump will cycle after running only about 3 ounces of water. That's because there is no air space anywhere in the water lines (like a pressure tank). Three ounces of water is such a small amount, you may not even notice a drip, especially if it's dripping at the overflow valve at the water heater, or from your water heater drain plug / anode rod. Before you see the drop of water or two, it's already evaporated because of the heat. So the good news is, when the pump turns on, you have lost only a tiny amount of water pressure. Now .... where that water is going is the mystery.
On a previous camper I had, the cycling got shorter and shorter between intervals. It finally got to the point the pump was cycling about every 10 minutes. And this really drove me batty. I could not find a leak anywhere. And every 10 minutes, there should have been water somewhere.
I finally pulled the water pump so I could get a good look at it. It was located on the drivers side of the trailer, front, beside the bed under that carpeted box (stand). When I finally pulled the pump I was surprised at what I found. 3 of 4 of the screws holding the diaphragm mechanism on was missing. I looked around the bottom of that compartment and found 1 of them. The other 2 screws were completely missing. I think they fell through the hole where the water line came up from the tank.
Since I could not replace the screws, I ended up purchasing a new water pump from my local RV dealership, 5 miles from my home. At the time, the pump cost about $45, which was pretty cheap, even then. But, I never had problems with the pump cycling again. It lasted for another 7 years until we traded the trailer for a new one.
So, first, check those valves, and second check the pump itself. Swapping out the pump for a new one is an easy job, even if the location of the pump is not in a desirable location.
Good luck!
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About the time everything starts going well, something else breaks!
2019 Montana High Country 375FL
2014 Chevy Duramax HD 6.6 - 3500 Diesel Dully Long bed Crew Cab
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