Freezing Weather

[bipolarcoder]

Just curious, I read that you can put RV Antifreeze in your tank to help prevent freezing. Just wondering if this is true and can you do both tanks or should you not and what I read was a lie???

Thanks everyone

[JRTJH]

I wouldn't count on a gallon or two of RV antifreeze in a 30 gallon holding tank to do much more than turn the gray water slightly mauve in color. It's much better, on nights when you know it's going to be below freezing, to just dump the tanks and rely on the "ice tray effect" to prevent tank wall damage.

When diluted, RV antifreeze becomes nothing more than pink food dye. How much protection does a 1:15 solution protect below freezing ???? That's anybody's WAG <wild A** guess>

I'd consider adding RV antifreeze to a holding tank very much the same as "pouring money down the toilet"... Not nearly enough benefit for the investment.

[bipolarcoder]

Thank you very much for your input, I wasn't sure what to believe.

[skids]

Are you talking about grey and black tank or do you have more than one fresh tank? Do you have a hot water tank bypass? Do you have a way to suck antifreeze direct with the water pump? In the absence of tank bypass and suction line on the inlet of the water pump, drain everything and put the plug back into the water tank, then systematically blow out the system with compressed air (not to exceed 35 psi or so) using the city water supply with a good adapter. Don't forget the hot and cold low point spigots, the toilet flush, and outdoor shower and all. Pour some antifreeze into the drains of the kitchen and bathroom sinks and I also do the shower drain to displace water.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by skids

Are you talking about grey and black tank or do you have more than one fresh tank? Do you have a hot water tank bypass? Do you have a way to suck antifreeze direct with the water pump? In the absence of tank bypass and suction line on the inlet of the water pump, drain everything and put the plug back into the water tank, then systematically blow out the system with compressed air (not to exceed 35 psi or so) using the city water supply with a good adapter. Don't forget the hot and cold low point spigots, the toilet flush, and outdoor shower and all. Pour some antifreeze into the drains of the kitchen and bathroom sinks and I also do the shower drain to displace water.

I believe the OP is full-timing in the trailer, so they aren't "winterizing for a cold spell" but are trying to protect the trailer while they cook and sleep in it overnight during that cold spell... Leaving the water heater operating will prevent it from freezing and will provide hot water to wash up in the morning and they'll need the toilet for necessary functions before breakfast.

Your procedure is great for temporarily winterizing the trailer parked beside the garage, but not the easiest way if you're living in the trailer and will need to turn on a faucet after 8 hours of sleep while getting ready to go to work

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by bipolarcoder

Just curious, I read that you can put RV Antifreeze in your tank to help prevent freezing. Just wondering if this is true and can you do both tanks or should you not and what I read was a lie???

Thanks everyone

Context please.
Is the trailer in storage or being used?
If being used and short duration freezing full tanks will not freeze.
If in storage then a small amount of RV antifreeze will protect the blade valve.
If you plan on full timing in the unit, install tank heating pads.

[bipolarcoder]

Apologies should have mentioned we are a full time living family currently in KY for holidays.

As of now we have a heated hose and heat tape around the faucet with foam surrounding it then a plastic bag to protect from the rain.

Our furnace does a great job protecting the pipes with the way it’s designed.

[JackieHWard]

I try to dump tanks before freezing and then I add a gallon to the black tank and a half gallon to each of my gray tanks. I am fortunate to have 12v heating pads under all three holding tanks.

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by bipolarcoder

Apologies should have mentioned we are a full time living family currently in KY for holidays.

As of now we have a heated hose and heat tape around the faucet with foam surrounding it then a plastic bag to protect from the rain.

Our furnace does a great job protecting the pipes with the way it’s designed.

Well as one full timer to another full timer, you are on the right track. The heated hose and heat tape on the faucet should keep water flowing. Running the furnace should protect the belly water lines and tanks.

If you tend to keep the tanks fuller during the cold weather, they won't freeze, unless they are exposed and it stays cold for a couple days.

We full time park host in Oregon, and have experienced temperatures in the mid teens for several days, and just below freezing as highs for a couple days, without issue running the furnace, and with a home made heated water hose.

[Peto]

If living in it, don't worry. the warmth from the furnace and the movement of fluids will keep it from freezing. Just be ready if the power goes out with a generator to step in.

[LHaven]

Does your rig not have electric tank heater pads? They should easily get you through a cold night or two on dumped tanks.

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by LHaven

Does your rig not have electric tank heater pads? They should easily get you through a cold night or two on dumped tanks.

An almost empty tank will freeze quicker than a half or nearly full tank, given some heat to the belly.

[dutchmensport]

Although we are currently in Louisiana and winters here are not as sever as they are in Indiana, we are (and have) used our camper in some pretty cold weather. When temps drop below freezing, I make sure the black and grey tanks are emptied. Then when temps drop down over night, I''ll also disconnect the sewer hose, "walk" the hose and make sure it's completely drained. Depending on where we are located, I'll put the hose away or leave it out, but I make sure it's drained so the residual water will be minimal when it does freeze.

I'll wait till the tanks get full enough to make a good black water dump, hook up the hoses, dump and then disconnect everything again.

I have never had my tanks freeze (in any camper we've had), nor have I ever had any hoses freeze up (like a solid block of ice in them) doing it this way. It DOES take more attention though and it does mean dumping more often, even if the tanks are not completely full. I also back flush by black tank with my grey tank, so my black tank does not necessarily need to be "full" before dumping, as long as there is adequate grey water to back flush with.

Mostly, I'll dump in the late evening, right before dark and the temps drop colder. This way, the tanks are empty or as empty as possible.

If you are running your furnace, the heat generated from your camper's underbelly should keep the tanks warm enough you won't have problems and if you have tank heaters, you are even better off.

Of course, all of this depends upon how "cold" and how "long" it stays cold too. When temps reach 20 below zero, you are basically just SOL. Drain everything and use a port-a-potty.

[440scout]

If you have an enclosed and heated underbelly and tank heaters but your dump valves are outside of the underbelly, thats a freeze break waiting to happen. Ous friends bought a new Keystone trailer with that same setup and they think it's 4 seasons rated. I guess they could put some 12 volt heat tape and insulation on those valves and piping and probably be ok.

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by 440scout

If you have an enclosed and heated underbelly and tank heaters but your dump valves are outside of the underbelly, thats a freeze break waiting to happen. Ous friends bought a new Keystone trailer with that same setup and they think it's 4 seasons rated. I guess they could put some 12 volt heat tape and insulation on those valves and piping and probably be ok.

Interesting, all my valves are inside the belly, so not an issue I thought of.