Driveway Parking Situation

[31Bullet]

Hello all,

I am new here and looking for some advice. We recently upgraded from a '21 Hideout 176BH to a Bullet 2290BHWE. Our Hideout was obviously much shorter and not as tall. We have a interesting parking situation where there is RV parking behind our side gate with plenty of space for our new trailer; however, we are not sure if the awning will clear the eaves/overhang of the house.

With the Hideout, we turned the trailer around in the driveway and pulled it in head first so the awning was opposite the house. With the new trailer, it seems like we may be very close to the awning going over the top of the eaves without having to turn it around.

All this confusion just to ask, is it safe to place down some boards on the concrete to lift the trailer a couple inches to make sure the awning goes over the top of the eaves? Or, is there a better way for lifting it up while stored?

Thank you.

[Peto]

I have 2x12 runners I park mine on. No issues. Without them it settles too much over time.

[31Bullet]

Originally Posted by Peto

I have 2x12 runners I park mine on. No issues. Without them it settles too much over time.

Just 2x12 lumber? Did you use pressure treated?

[sourdough]

Something else to consider would be 12x12 or 16x16 concrete blocks available at home improvement stores. I used them on my property next door to make a runway for my trailer. Thought it was a good idea but the ground gives too much and the blocks break. Concrete should be OK if it's level. They are thicker than 1 1/2" wood stock.

[dutchmensport]

I use lumber under my tires all the time, both at home and when camping. I have a 2x12x7.5 and a 2x12x7 so one will stack on top of the other to make a rise on one side if the campsite has a slope side-to-side. My drive way has a rather impressive side-to-slide slope (I had done intentionally when we had it resurfaced) for rain run off in a desired direction.

I used treated lumber for years and years until it finally cracked up and splintered out. I then replaced it with non-treated while we were on-the-road a few years ago. Now, those boards are cracked out (long ways). I don't mind purchasing new lumber ever 4 or 5 years, even if it's not treated because I learned with lumber that long and on soft ground, the boards take a pretty good beating with over 7000 pounds a side on those boards. In time, they do crack up. But, nothing wrong or anything to worry about using lumber.

[flybouy]

What type of surface are you parking on? If it's grass/dirt then it may settle in and you could find yourself jacking up the axles to place another board under it. If the ground is uneven, i.e. digits or small trenches then wood or cement papers will likely break. Neither surface will pose any issues and should be a positive move to keep water off the tires.

[Peto]

Originally Posted by 31Bullet

Just 2x12 lumber? Did you use pressure treated?

Pressure treated will be best. I have just regular 2x12's under mine as that's what I had available and my soil is hard pack and dry (I live in aridzona).

[JackieHWard]

Placing the required 2" boards making a ramp on one side should be okay or placing them on both sides would be even better. Just keep the wheels on the boards.

[MJCougler]

Below are a few things I might add to these comments to consider. Pressure treated 2x12s are always the best way to level the RV on concrete, asphalt and softer grass. After they dry-out after a year, consider brushing on deck coatings to extend the lifespan. Ensure the six of seven foot lengths of 2x12s will fit in the back of your truck while stacked, especially with a 5th wheel RV. Another consideration would be to screw several 11x 4" "Simpson Strong tie" metal plates on the bottom side of the 2x12s (below the tire locations) to minimize curving or cracking the length of the boards because of the soft soil. Stacking several 2x12s on top of each other will help with side-to-side leveling on soft ground. And, you will need 3 or 4-foot lengths of 2x12s or 6x6s under your jack pads.