2013 318 SAB water heater operation

[M2bandit]

Hello, I know my water heater is dual LP/Electric but I have no clue how to operate the electric side of it.

I have one switch next to my door that says DSI water. When that's turned on it will ignite propane. If there's no propane a red light turns on saying DSI fault.

I have no clue how to turn on the electric portion of the heater my last trailer had 2 switches.

Edit: Bad news I found the switch, it's on the heater behind the propane hose. It's switched on already.



Now I need to diagnose why it doesn't work.

[NH_Bulldog]

What brand and model water heater? That would be very helpful information for someone wanting to assist.

[wiredgeorge]

If the camper had the electric switch in the on position with no water in the tank, the switch will need to be replaced and very likely the heating element. Both are pretty easy and not an expensive chore. When we start our water heater using gas, I ensure the gas is flowing by turning on the stove. Then, I make sure there is water in the tank by opening the pressure relief valve on the outside on the tank just a bit. Then I turn on the rocker switch for gas and it will go red when lighting the water heater gas element and stay on as long as it is working. I can hear our lighting as it kind of clicks and is right next to the switch and under the refrigerator.

[sourdough]

If you've got a switch on the water heater is it should be a Suburban. Usually there is also a switch inside that turns on "electric" to the heater and the switch on the heater is used as a "safety" (I guess, I never knew why they did that). In the event there is not an additional switch inside and the only switch for electric is on the side of the heater and it was on when there was no water in it the electric heating element is fried and it won't heat. Posting what model the water heater is helps a lot in trying to figure out what's going on from afar.

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by M2bandit

Hello, I know my water heater is dual LP/Electric but I have no clue how to operate the electric side of it.

I have one switch next to my door that says DSI water. When that's turned on it will ignite propane. If there's no propane a red light turns on saying DSI fault.

I have no clue how to turn on the electric portion of the heater my last trailer had 2 switches.

Edit: Bad news I found the switch, it's on the heater behind the propane hose. It's switched on already.



Now I need to diagnose why it doesn't work.

The water heater electric switch is installed upside down. “On” is “off” and off is on. What position is the switch?

[M2bandit]

Originally Posted by NH_Bulldog

What brand and model water heater? That would be very helpful information for someone wanting to assist.

Not sure it doesn't say on it. I'll try to find the paperwork.

Originally Posted by sourdough

the electric heating element is fried and it won't heat.

The element has 9.4 ohms, what I've found online is it should be 9.6 to 11 ohms I'm not sure if that's far enough out of range to be a complete failure.

Originally Posted by chuckster57

The water heater electric switch is installed upside down. “On” is “off” and off is on. What position is the switch?

It was in the Off position. Off is on top on is on bottom but I don't know if it's wired backwards. I'll try flipping it to off again.

[M2bandit]

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

If the camper had the electric switch in the on position with no water in the tank, the switch will need to be replaced and very likely the heating element.

Ok I'll test the switch tomorrow.

[sourdough]

If you're reading 9.4 ohms across the element it's not "open". Since you know it's labeled upside down and it's off....leave it off. Without knowing if there is another switch actually feeding that switch turning it on could energize the element and in an empty tank it will fry.

You've got an ohm meter, pull that switch and see if it has 120vac to the hot side. If not look further upstream to where a switch might be inside to activate it. Also, on some of the Suburbans there is a relay box on the left inside once you pull out the heater that lets the 12vdc from the switch inside pull a relay that then feeds the switch on the exterior of the heater.

[M2bandit]

Thanks everyone, Looks like the switch was labeled correctly. I tested ohms across it.
After I pulled it out I just cleaned off some corrosion and now it's working.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by M2bandit

Thanks everyone, Looks like the switch was labeled correctly. I tested ohms across it.
After I pulled it out I just cleaned off some corrosion and now it's working.

That switch is a "weakest link" in the electrical side of the water heater. If I were you, I'd buy a replacement and stash it in a hiding spot in the trailer. Cleaning corrosion from the switch contacts is, at very best, going to get you a few months before the switch craps out for good.

Buying one now for $6 or $7 and having it on hand on that Saturday evening when DW complains that there's no hot water sure beats a cold shower followed by a Sunday morning trip to an RV parts store and spending $20 for the same switch.... YMMV

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by M2bandit

Thanks everyone, Looks like the switch was labeled correctly. I tested ohms across it.
After I pulled it out I just cleaned off some corrosion and now it's working.

Keep in mind that corrosion causes resistance and resistance causes heat. Those are marginal switches to say the least IMO. I've gone through 3-4 of them on my water heater and keep a couple of spares in my box - mine melted due to heat. Cleaning the switch is a very temporary fix. From what I've experienced replacing them is also a temporary fix but more permanent that cleaning them.

[M2bandit]

Good points, I have a new one on the way.