Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 

Go Back   Keystone RV Forums > Keystone Fleet | Keystone RV Models > Travel Trailers
Click Here to Login

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 04-11-2017, 08:08 AM   #21
ToddB
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Leander
Posts: 11
Well, I might have used the wrong terminology there. The bottom sticker on the side of the trailer says:

"TIRE AND LOADING INFORMATION
The weight of cargo should never exceed 780 KG or 1720 LBS"

I was taking that to mean that the tires were only rated for a total of 1720 LBS. But the tires themselves say:

"Max Load Single 1760 LBS
Max Load Dual 1570 LBS"

The sticker just above that one, showing Keystone RV company as the manufacturer, provides a GVWR of 7000 LBS, and the curb weight on the Keystone site is listed as 5085 LBS. So there is a difference of 205 LBS between the info provided on the two stickers that I am not certain how to interpret.

With these three pieces of information combined, I'm just trying to figure out what is the maximum SAFE load that I can carry as it is currently configured. But I still don't have info on the wheels themselves at this point, and I know that is crucial.

Sorry to make this painful, but I am struggling to sort through it all.
ToddB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2017, 08:11 AM   #22
srvnt
Senior Member
 
srvnt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Huntington Beach, Ca
Posts: 250
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpt_majestic View Post
Sorry make another tire thread, I'm sure it's been beaten to death, but this has been driving me nuts.

We have a 2012 Hideout 26 RLSWE currently running original Power King Tow Max STR, 205/75/15. The tires are coming on 5 years old and we are going to Utah in May and want to get them replaced because I won't feel comfortable on 5 year old tires going 1500 miles, duh.

I've been reading reviews and just going insane. What I've isolated it down to are GoodYear Endurance's or the GoodYear Marathons, the Marathons are similar to the Power Kings (1820 lbs./50-psi), where the Endurance is (2150 lbs/65 psi), would there be a pro/con to going with the Endurance's? I know the marathons had a recall, but I'm not sure if that's a valid reason. The cost is only around $125.00 total difference.

Thanks
Endurance LRD made in America. #MAGA
__________________

2013 Passport 2890RL GT
2015 Silverado CC LTZ 4x 2500 Duramax
HB Cal
srvnt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2017, 09:23 AM   #23
sourdough
Site Team
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: W. Texas
Posts: 17,598
ToddB - "With these three pieces of information combined, I'm just trying to figure out what is the maximum SAFE load that I can carry as it is currently configured?"

My thought would be not much if I'm reading your numbers right. If the GVW of the trailer is 7000 lbs. and the max. weight for your tires is 1760 x4 = 7040 you have very little margin for error on the tires.

There is the premise that the tongue carries some of the weight so you can deduct that from the weight the tires carry. I don't go by that. When I'm on an undulating highway (Jackson, MS for example) there are many times that my tongue is UP - the full weight of the trailer is on the tires plus some I'm sure. The weight is being shoved up and down on the tires as we bounce along - the hitch weight is not fully carried by the truck at those times.

Some of Keystone's trailers seem to come with a nice reserve capacity but it seems they stick with the same tires as the trailers get larger until they are almost overloaded before they go to a larger size. Why I have no idea.

My trailer has a gvw of 10,000 lbs. My OE tires were rated at 2540 each or 10,160. I had one self destruct in short order causing 7k in damage. I'm positive it is for the reasons I mentioned above. I upgraded to a LRE tire and feel much better and have had no issues in two trips to FL and back to TX. My tires also seem to run cooler that they did with the LRD tires (taken with an infrared heat gun).

My thought would be to replace your tires before you take a long trip and find the underside or side of your trailer missing due to a tire failure.
sourdough is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2017, 10:24 AM   #24
Desert185
Senior Member
 
Desert185's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Nevada
Posts: 2,695
Another thing to consider is that the tires degrade in capabilty a certain percentage each year. By the time you reach the end of life of the tire, any margin that might have existed is gone, with the effective remaining capacity possibly below the gross weight being carried.

If I were that close with tire loading, I would go from a LRC to a D or a D to an E with a Maxxis or Carlisle tire...metal stems, balanced and with a TPMS installed.

There are enough threats on the road without incurring one you could have prevented with a little preparation and maybe more than a few dollars. Doing nothing could result in even more dollars expended.
__________________
Desert185 🇺🇸 (Retired Chemtrail vendor)
-Ram 2500 QC, LB, 4x4, Cummins HO/exhaust brake, 6-speed stick.
-Andersen Ultimate 24K 5er Hitch.
-2014 Cougar 326SRX, Maxxis tires w/TPMS, wet bolts, two 6v batts.
-Four Wheel 8' Popup Camper.
Desert185 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2017, 05:03 PM   #25
CWtheMan
Senior Member
 
CWtheMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Taylors, SC
Posts: 3,031
Quote:
Originally Posted by ToddB View Post
As a newbie about to hit the road full-time, I really appreciate all of the info about tires and wheels. It will absolutely keep my family safer on the road.

What really gets me is how the trailer manufacturers and dealers can get away with selling me a BRAND NEW trailer that is stated to have a 1,950 lbs cargo capacity (one of the selling points because of my full-time plans) while putting tires on the trailer that are only rated for 1,720 lbs! (Haven't checked the wheel load capacity yet, but will soon thanks to this post.)

One RVer I follow had THREE blowouts in the first six months on his new trailer because the tires were lower rated (below trailer cargo capacity). If I hadn't seen his video about learning this important piece of info after the fact, I wouldn't have thought to look into all of these issues.

So I'm grateful to him and grateful to you folks for laying all of this out and keeping us safe. Long live the forum.
The cargo capacity label is affixed to the trailer as it was equipped when it left the factory. For all practical purposes it is unused space for weight that was left over once all other weights were established.

Other factors are the manufacturers' values for each axle shown on the certification label as GAWR. Now, the trailer manufacturer must come-up with an acceptable recommended tongue/hitch weight. By acceptable, it must work and have a value within industry standards. Then they must add that hitch weight to total GAWR weights. The sum MUST equal or exceed GVWR.

For RV trailers, tires are fitted to each GAWR according to the weight rating of the GAWR axles. The trailer manufacturer must also set a cold recommended tire inflation pressure that is appropriate for the installed tires. That info is also on the certification label/tire placard.

If a dealer installs options totaling more than 100#, before the trailer is sold, they must amend the cargo label to reflect the weight changes.

The tires on the trailer at the time of first sale must be the same size identified on the certification label.

On edit: I went and looked at the specs for your trailer. Your GAWR axles should be about 3200# ea.. You can verify that by looking at the certification label on the LH forward external section of your trailer.
CWtheMan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2017, 05:28 PM   #26
busterbrown
Senior Member
 
busterbrown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 1,659
Quote:
Originally Posted by Desert185 View Post
Another thing to consider is that the tires degrade in capabilty a certain percentage each year. By the time you reach the end of life of the tire, any margin that might have existed is gone, with the effective remaining capacity possibly below the gross weight being carried.

If I were that close with tire loading, I would go from a LRC to a D or a D to an E with a Maxxis or Carlisle tire...metal stems, balanced and with a TPMS installed.

There are enough threats on the road without incurring one you could have prevented with a little preparation and maybe more than a few dollars. Doing nothing could result in even more dollars expended.
That about sums it up perfectly.
__________________
2017 Keystone Bullet 308BHS in Saddle.
2017 RAM 2500 Laramie Mega Cab 4x4 Hemi 6.4L
2008 GMC Yukon XL Denali (SOLD)
Hensley SwiftArrow Control Hitch with 1000 lb Spring Bars
Me, DW, (3) little DS's, and 1 rambunctious Boston Terrier

busterbrown is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3
Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Keystone RV Company or any of its affiliates in any way. Keystone RV® is a registered trademark of the Keystone RV Company.


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 06:02 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.