**Black Tank Leak**

Hansel · 03-31-2014, 09:17 AM

I've search the forum trying too find the problem I'm having, I started too de-winterize my Laredo today but before I started I noticed it dripping at the rear driver corner, it was coming out right over the jack and then running onto the ground, I then noticed that the screw's holding the plastic bottom on where rusted from being wet, when my camper is parked it sit's nose up because it's on my side driveway which is not level.

Okay, here is what I did. First emptied the black tank, leaking seemed too stop. Then filled up the grey tank, it did not seem too be leaking (dripping) onto the ground. I filled the waste tank up, and it would start too drip

So is it the valve?? or is the tank itself leaking??? but isn't the tank metal??? so I'm leaning towards the valve, and not the tank.

HELP PLEASE

Festus2 · 03-31-2014, 09:40 AM

To see if it a leaky valve, put some water into your black tank. Remove some of the screws holding the black, coroplast underbelly in place (that is close to the black tank), pull down the coroplast , and have a peek inside to see if you can see any liquid dripping from the black tank valve or from the tank itself.

None of the tanks are metal - they are made from a plastic compound.

MarkS · 03-31-2014, 09:43 AM

I don't think the tank is metal. RV Manufacturers have used plastic for a long long time.

You could put food coloring in the water that you fill the tank with. Different color for each tank.

Ultimately, you are going to have to put eyes on where the leak is. You might be able to use a inspection camera to peek in. You will probably have to drop the bottom of the trailer so you can look in.

Hansel · 03-31-2014, 01:36 PM

Well I got brave and pulled down the coroplast and found some really nasty insulation that had gotten soaked with stuff ( ya know what I mean) and it is not the valve it is the tank fitting I guess, the leak is coming from where the pipe comes out of the tank (does that make sense).

So my next question is, does that have a seal?? and how hard would it be or am I chewing off more than I can eat

I was thinking that if it's too big of a job for me, and the camper repair place want's too much, because I know their going rate per hour is over $100

I would let it dry out really good then use some silicone to try and seal it back up.

And thanks for the quick response's

**JRTJH** · 03-31-2014, 02:59 PM

Silicone won't hold. There is a "tank repair kit" that is designed to fuse or weld the tank back together. People have used it to repair split or ruptured tanks with great success. I'd think that if you get it cleaned up and dry, you should be able to apply enough around the fitting to permanently seal any leaks. I'd just be cautious not to get any on a part that is designed to be removed and/or replaced such as the tank valve assembly.

Here is a "news release" about the product:

http://www.rvnewsdaily.com/article.php/plasti_mend

There are many places that sell the kit, but here's one so you know what you're looking for:

http://www.amazon.com/Plasti-Mend-Pl.../dp/B003JC3UB2

Hansel · 03-31-2014, 03:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Silicone won't hold. There is a "tank repair kit" that is designed to fuse or weld the tank back together. People have used it to repair split or ruptured tanks with great success. I'd think that if you get it cleaned up and dry, you should be able to apply enough around the fitting to permanently seal any leaks. I'd just be cautious not to get any on a part that is designed to be removed and/or replaced such as the tank valve assembly.

Here is a "news release" about the product:

http://www.rvnewsdaily.com/article.php/plasti_mend

There are many places that sell the kit, but here's one so you know what you're looking for:

http://www.amazon.com/Plasti-Mend-Pl.../dp/B003JC3UB2

Dude, You ROCK!!!!!!

Thanks for the info

Hansel · 04-01-2014, 04:34 AM

Okay next question, Sorry about that

I've only pulled down one side of the coroplast, I'm not sure if I want too pull down the entire rear section basically the area behind the axle's or measure out where the tank is leaking which it looks like the tanks valve's are there also, and make myself and access panel??? I figure doing the access idea because I'm sure in the future I will need too get at those valve's so I'm leaning towards cutting and making an access door for that section.

jtyphoid · 04-01-2014, 05:58 AM

If you decide to cut an access panel, I recommend cutting a three sided flap instead of a complete square. Cut it such that the hinge is toward the front to minimize the chance of road grime, water, etc. being forced in when travelling. I have had good results using wide Gorilla tape to seal the flap back up.

I agree with JRTJH, though. Only cut a flap if you're certain about the leak location.

SLIMSHADIE · 04-01-2014, 03:20 PM

I had a similar problem with my gray tank. I ended cutting the coloraplast after the axles and removing the tail section. Later I used black gorilla tape for reattaching, wiping the seem with rubbing alcohol and using 3-4 sections, overlapping. I thiink i did the middle, overlapping the outside edges, overlapping the middle, dont quite remember.
Anyways the collar of the tank had some hairline cracks, the fitting looked welded or heated in place. The black tank didnt look quite like that? So after the gray tank was emptied and let dry for a day or 2, I cleaned the area good with rubbing alcohol. I decided to use GEL super glue and smear it into the cracks the best I could using latex gloves. I then let it dry 1 day then got some JB Weld for plastic and top coated the whole collar section past the superglued cracks. Its been holding since the middle of last summer, no leaks. I also no longer travel with filled tanks, trying not to stress them out.

You may also like: