Another Bearing Question, thanks

sandy43 · 05-14-2015, 01:03 PM

I've been reading all the post pertaining to wheel bearing. Some good info. It's apparent that most know their stuff.

I called Dexter this morning and talked to a "Connie". She said if the bearing look good and no wear, just grease them and replace them, no need to buy new bearings. I mentioned changing them out to Timkens bearing, because their USA produced. She said Timkens are now produced in China. Whatever, it is what it is.

My question to all is: when you take the rear bearing out to grease it, does the rear seal need to be changed. I'm new to this procedure, so be patient and all the help you can give is well appreciated. Many Thanks

**JRTJH** · 05-14-2015, 01:18 PM

To answer your question about replacing vs reusing the seals. Any time you pull the rear bearing, you have to remove the seal to get the bearing out of the hub. That means you run the risk of deforming the seal. When reinstalled, there's a good chance it won't "seal" properly against the axle shaft. So, you run the risk of installing a "damaged part" when for the cost of a new seal (about $4) you can prevent that possibility.

I've heard many times, 'NEVER EVER REUSE SEALS". Even "way back when" on my first car, a 1950 Chevy Turtleback, my Dad raised all kinds of cane when I suggested saving a buck and reusing the seals.

When you think about it, less than $20 for new seals to protect $100+ in brake shoes. Seems like good insurance to me. There's one member here who makes his living as an auto mechanic. He has said in the past that anyone in his shop that reused a seal would find himself outside without a job.

bsmith0404 · 05-14-2015, 03:53 PM

I've reused a seal in a pinch, had to do some bearing work while traveling. The new seal I had was ripped (not sure how or when it happened). Couldn't get a replacement so I put the old one back in. It was a temporary fix and I replaced it when I got home. It held up, but only because it came out pretty easy. I've also completely destroyed seals getting them out. In short you CAN do it if needed, but as already pointed out, I wouldn't plan it that way or do it as a normal practice.

Desert185 · 05-15-2015, 08:33 AM

Agreed on replacing the seals, but if you're ever in a situation where you can't there is a little trick for removing the seal with minimal to no damage to the seal.

Remove axle nut and washer. Remove outer bearing. Reinstall axle nut and washer. Pull smartly on tire. Axle nut and washer pushing against bearing will remove inner seal, which will remain on the axle with the inner bearing with the washer and nut.

But...as advised...replace the seal.

gearhead · 05-15-2015, 12:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Desert185

Agreed on replacing the seals, but if you're ever in a situation where you can't there is a little trick for removing the seal with minimal to no damage to the seal.

Remove axle nut and washer. Remove outer bearing. Reinstall axle nut and washer. Pull smartly on tire. Axle nut and washer pushing against bearing will remove inner seal, which will remain on the axle with the inner bearing with the washer and nut.

But...as advised...replace the seal.

^^^this. If you have to re-use the seal, and can get some Loctite, put just a couple drops on the outer diameter to help hold it in. Be sure not to put so much that any gets in the bearing. Use a block of wood or a socket to tap it back in. Don't hit it near the sealing area.

Dave W · 05-16-2015, 04:10 AM

I've reused seals in automobiles many times and successfully as they usually come out fairly easily. If they are damaged, or distorted, never. My trailers ALWAYS get new seals

As far as Timken bearings - Dexter may or may not be right as these are made, at my last look, in 27 countries. I would rather take my chances with a known brand etched on the bearing vs the unbranded Chnesium junk that Dexter supplied such as when I changed axles on my now gone Titanium. There are other great internationally available brands like Fafnir, SKF, National, NSK just to name a few.

cb1000rider · 05-30-2015, 05:49 PM

I've been super diligent about my trailer bearings (non-camper) - be aware that if you replace them, they'll go through a break-in period and will almost certainly require adjustment within the first 100 miles. Just don't think you're "done" if you replace 'em...

**chuckster57** · 05-30-2015, 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cb1000rider

I've been super diligent about my trailer bearings (non-camper) - be aware that if you replace them, they'll go through a break-in period and will almost certainly require adjustment within the first 100 miles. Just don't think you're "done" if you replace 'em...

What "adjustment" do you do to a set of wheel bearings? The races are pressed in and set, you pack the rollers with grease, tighten the hub nut to the proper torque and close it up. I have never had to adjust any new set of bearings I've installed and have yet to see any come back for any type of adjustment failure.

cb1000rider · 05-30-2015, 09:00 PM

You do it exactly as you describe it. Usually, I've seen them loosen up a bit in the first 100 miles or so and I end up resetting that hub nut again and then they are good. You method may be better if they actually have preset in/lbs or ft/lbs - I've always done them by feel.

By loosen up a bit, I don't mean the nut, but the actual bearing/race itself, you get a touch more play in the wheel. The way you do it, I'm suggesting torquing the hub nut again in 100 miles just to be sure.

bsmith0404 · 05-31-2015, 05:49 AM

I've always rechecked the bearing after a 100 miles or so as well. Have had a few that seemed to loosen up some, but not all. My experience is that it's rare and probably not enough to cause any problems, less than a 1/4 turn on the nut.

bobbecky · 05-31-2015, 02:48 PM

I wasn't going to say anything, but the re-torquing of bearings was just bugging me. The proper way to install freshly packed bearings is, while rotating the drum assembly, you tighten the bearing nut to 50 lb ft. You then, loosen the nut without turning the drum, and then with your fingers, tighten the nut. If the nut lines up with the cotter pin hole. you are good. If it does not, you back off the nut until it lines up with the next slot to the cotter pin hole. These bearings need to have a bit of play and should not be under constant pressure from the nut. You should never have to go back and re-tighten the bearing nut if the installation was done properly the first time.

Desert185 · 05-31-2015, 05:10 PM

^^^yep^^^

"Torquing" was bothering me, too. Better to have bearings on the loose side than too tight.

**chuckster57** · 05-31-2015, 05:16 PM

I may have misused the word torque. I do "set" the bearings with a large wrench while spinning the wheel, then back off and tighten just enough by hand. I do pull on the assembly to check for side play, and turn the nut accordingly. When the cotter pin or holding cap is in place, no "torque" is on the nut.

cb1000rider · 05-31-2015, 06:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bsmith0404

I've always rechecked the bearing after a 100 miles or so as well. Have had a few that seemed to loosen up some, but not all. My experience is that it's rare and probably not enough to cause any problems, less than a 1/4 turn on the nut.

That's about where I'm at. I re-adjust to get rid of that play and then I don't have to worry about them for a while. I'm sure that doing it in one shot is "good enough".

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