Problem with back flush, waste water

[Drakkar]

I just bought this 2006 Keystone Raptor 3612,, its like new hardly ever been lived in,,, still has saw dust in the beds Hardley ever used,, I cant back flush my system, I have the hook up for it, I can connect a water hose on it and I get no water in my black water tank,,, the poly tube comes in and goes up into the wall then there is another poly tube coming down. why would the back flush go back up to go down to rinse out my black tank? but I can no back flush my system.

[buzzcop63]

On my back flush system the plastic hose goes up on the inside to a one-way valve to prevent any liquid from leaving the black tank and then down to the black tank where it sprays water inside. On this Forum there have been reports of that valve being installed backwards thus not allowing water to flow into the tank.

[Drakkar]

Thank you for the info,, do you know how the easiest way to get to that check valve,, or how far it goes up into the wall ? I will try to disassemble I and see if that's my prob thank you

[therink]

It should be located directly above where the flush line goes up through the floor, usually under the bathroom sink.

[Lee]

Hi,

Better yet, once you locate the valve, .... replace it. The cheap plastic valves are imfamious for failure either from water pressure or from freezing. You won't know it has failed until the time you use it and discover water flowing out on the bathroom floor.

I illminated mine all together by replacing it with a PVC barb. I then bought a metal valve that screws onto the end of my water hose.

Take care,
Lee

[bobbecky]

The only problem with eliminating the check valve/anti-siphon valve is when it comes time to winterize, you have to remember to winterize that line also. By having the valve, the line on both sides of the valve can gravity drain dry.

[hankaye]

bobbecky, Howdy;

Originally Posted by bobbecky

The only problem with eliminating the check valve/anti-siphon valve is when it comes time to winterize, you have to remember to winterize that line also. By having the valve, the line on both sides of the valve can gravity drain dry.

How do you figure that??? With no check valve there is no "Finger
on the Straw" so-to-speak, the water in the system, it's not or shouldn't be
connected to any other part of your RV's water system, should drain either
into the tank or out the attachment fitting on the exterior of the RV.
When I eliminated mine, I noticed that there was no check-valve at the hose
connection, mine does not go up under the sink but goes down through the
floor of the pass-thru into the underbelly and into the tank. The inlet is high
up on the side of my RV about 6" higher than the commode's dump valve
which is on the opposite side of the RV.

hankaye

[bobbecky]

Just thinking about how ours is routed, fairly low in the convenience center, up high in the wall between the pantry cabinet and the shower, where the valve is located, then back down to the black tank where the flush mechanism is located. If there is the slightest blockage in the lines, the water may not drain without the air gap provided by the valve. Yes, all these units are plumbed differently, so it is just something to be aware of.

[rjsurfer]

Don't judge the use of the camper by the sawdust on the bed. I still get sawdust coming out of my vents 8 years later:-)

Oh, ditch that valve....

Ron W

[jsmith948]

We removed the vacuum breaker and the pex lines. Plumbed the black flush directly from hose fitting on convenience center wall to tank. Eliminated the possibility of a flooded br. However, learned that if you fill the black tank REALLY full, waste water will 'burp' back out of the hose connection. Put the vacuum breaker back underneath the sink until I locate a brass breaker. FWIW

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