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07-02-2014, 08:00 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Oregon
Posts: 78
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Fridge & one other question
First question: apparently the little gray "thing" that locks the refrigerator in the closed position broke off (the one on the freezer is still there). Is this a simple thing to replace? Take the fridge frame off & replace "it"?
Second: I think I mucked up the seal on the toilet. I was replacing the "thing" that the water comes through to the toilet and I removed the foot pedal when I didn't have to. In the process (short version) the seal that let's the water (& stuff) into the tank seams to be not as "sealed". We always put some water in after flushing and now it leaks out into the tank whereas it used to stay there until the next flush. Could this be as simple as a seal like one might find in a garbage disposal (between the sink & disposal)? If so. How do you replace it? I'm concerned about doing more damage or loosing parts into the tank. Help
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Patrick
Central Oregon
2014 Cougar 327RES
2014 Ram 3500
B&W Companion Hitch
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07-03-2014, 04:51 AM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,996
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The "gray thingie" is pretty easy to replace. It will be harder to find the part than to replace it. Check with your dealer, it would probably be much cheaper from his parts department than to order it online and pay the "shipping and handling" fees they charge for a $2 part.
As for the toilet, you may have just dislodged the seal. Open the toilet ball flush, use your finger to clean around the seal and the plastic ball, push the seal back into position and apply a thin film of silicon grease or Vaseline to the surface. See if it works, if it still leaks, the rubber ring will need to be replaced. You can do that without removing the toilet, simply by stepping on the foot pedal and removing the old ring and installing the new ring through the hole. It's smart to be concerned with losing parts into the tank, but with the seal replacement, the actual seal is the only thing that comes off. There are no "tiny parts" to lose.
Here is the Dometic owner's manual. Check out section 8 and 10:
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...70138588,d.cWc
Also, here is the instruction sheet that comes with the replacement toilet ring. As you can see, it's a simple "pull the old one off and push the new one on" type of repair. The biggest "trick" is remembering to clean the toilet bowl seating surface well and applying the silicone to the new ring after installation.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...70138588,d.cWc
Good Luck.
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John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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07-03-2014, 05:20 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 1,037
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Povo
First question: apparently the little gray "thing" that locks the refrigerator in the closed position broke off (the one on the freezer is still there). Is this a simple thing to replace? Take the fridge frame off & replace "it"?
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Are you talking about he the door handle that also locked the door closed?
like in this picture
http://www.dometic.com/76546bd3-dba1...1df89b03.fodoc
Is this the part?
http://www.adventurerv.net/dometic-r...prtrep5eh82ef4
randy
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Randy "Camp On"
2011 Cougar 327RES
2014 Ford F-350, 6.7L 4X4, CC, SRW
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07-03-2014, 06:44 AM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Oregon
Posts: 78
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This is great. I may have dislodged the toilet seal when I was messing with the foot pedal (which it turns out I didn't have to be messing with). I'll either reset it or repace it. As for the fridge, it is exterior cabinet part #34 (page 7 of the manual).
I can't tell what it will take to replace it once i get my hands on it. Looks like I need access to the side of the fridge. Does it slide out?
I don't want to move too fast. Still having my morning coffee.
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Patrick
Central Oregon
2014 Cougar 327RES
2014 Ram 3500
B&W Companion Hitch
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07-03-2014, 07:06 AM
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#5
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,996
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I just finished my last cup so I can relate to your "slowness"
The refrigerator will slide out of the wall opening fairly easily.
In the installation manual, you'll find pictures with all the screws that are installed. Don't forget that outside, in the lower vent, you've got 2 or 3 screws plus the gas line to disconnect, then inside, remove the eyebrow panel, there's 2 screws under it, 4 (I think) along the sides and two at the bottom, then the reefer will slide out enough to get to the side where you need to replace the part. It's not difficult, just remember, it will slide easily once all the screws are removed, trying to force it "against its will" usually means that there's another screw that you missed.
It's heavy, about 150 - 200 lbs depending on model, but it will slide the inch or two you need easily and it only takes one person to move it that much.
I found that removing the door makes access to the cabinet mounting screws much easier.
Good luck,
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John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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07-03-2014, 07:59 AM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Oregon
Posts: 78
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According to the same diagram on page 7, it looks like I need to remove the two screws (part 33) from underneath (it looks like there is access if I remove the panel under the fridge) then slide it pout a couple of inches to replace the part. Looks easy enough. I am going to have to assume I won't be doing any collateral damage in the process as long as I take is slow and only slide it out enough to access the part that needs to be replaced.
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Patrick
Central Oregon
2014 Cougar 327RES
2014 Ram 3500
B&W Companion Hitch
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07-03-2014, 09:09 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: MA
Posts: 3,153
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By little grey thing, do you mean the thing you slide so the door does not close during storage or the actual latch itself? If it is the little sliding latch then you really don't need it as you can just put something there so the door does not close. Check the alignment of the ball on the toilet, it could be off slightly since you took the foot pedal off and that is what is allowing the water to drain. Sometimes after a flush if you lift up slightly the contact with the seal will be good.
__________________
2013 Premier 31BHPR
2014 F350 6.2L
Soon to be just DW and I
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07-03-2014, 11:20 AM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Oregon
Posts: 78
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It's not a moving part - it's just a small gray peice that sticks out. It's what the latch on the door itself buts up againt in the closed position to keep the door from opening. It seems to be attached from the outside of the frame an protudes to inside the frame. It is just the part that sticks out that broke off.
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Patrick
Central Oregon
2014 Cougar 327RES
2014 Ram 3500
B&W Companion Hitch
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07-05-2014, 01:42 PM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Oregon
Posts: 78
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John - I think I was scrolling too fast and missed your post. That's good information. Question: Will I have to unhook the gas line if I am just sliding it out a couple of inches?
__________________
Patrick
Central Oregon
2014 Cougar 327RES
2014 Ram 3500
B&W Companion Hitch
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07-05-2014, 05:29 PM
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#10
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,996
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Yes you will need to unhook the gas line. It's really a simple thing to do, clearly in the open and not an issue. You "MIGHT" be able to slide the reefer out without unhooking the gas, but if you put any kind of torque on the gas line while sliding it out, kink it or twist it and you're going to be going from underneath the RV up through that silicone plug to replace the copper tubing. It's much easier to just unscrew it and let it sit there. When you get ready to reconnect it, put the two screws in the back of the reefer and the gas line will line right up for you. Piece of cake !!!
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John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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07-05-2014, 09:05 PM
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#11
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,341
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If I can one thing: if you do unhook the gas line, use an open end wrench on BOTH sides of the connection. That way you won't risk breaking things.
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2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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