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Old 07-02-2014, 06:09 AM   #1
Lenster
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Fridge not switching over

Fridge is Dometic, either DM2662 or DM2862. Had an issue with the park plugin receptacle, had it replaced. Now having fridge problems (or 12VDC??).

Normal mode - the lights on the control panel indicate it is on Auto, using AC, Gas Check is not on, set at Cold Setting = 4. Working great on 120 VAC.

With 120 VAC still on, I switched manually to Gas (light went on), left it on for several hours, everything seems to work OK. Switched it back to normal AC operation (see above). Still working good.

Ran too much at once (Air unit on, vacuuming, etc) and the park breaker (30A) opened. The fridge did not switch from AC to Gas although the Auto light was on prior to the breaker tripping. No power, the only lights on the control panel were the Auto & Cold Setting were blinking together once every ten seconds or so. NOTE: none of the 12V lights came one either. Breaker reset, back to AC mode, everything works fine again.

Is the issue fridge related, or is the 12VDC system all wonky? Checked the voltage at the battery and it read over 13 volts. Seems high. Any help is appreciated.
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Old 07-02-2014, 06:41 AM   #2
hankaye
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Lenster, Howdy;

A quick question for clarity, when you stated "NOTE: none of the 12V lights came one either."
were you referring to the rest of the RV or just the 12V lights in the 'fridge?

hankaye
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Old 07-02-2014, 06:50 AM   #3
gkainz
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The 120V side is protected with breakers, while the 12V side is protected by fuses. Check your fuses as well (check them with a multimeter, as one can be blown and not look like it visually).
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Old 07-02-2014, 06:55 AM   #4
Lenster
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Fridge or 12VDC problem?

I tried the 12V lights from the main Keystone display panel. No lights in fridge either.

As I'm doing more googling, I'm now thinking this might be a issue with the 12V system as opposed to a fridge problem. But I remember the flashing fridge lights as being some kind of troubleshooting code. Does the fridge need 12VDC power to swithc over to gas?

So the 12V lights are working when I'm hooked up to 120VAC but not off the battery which is fully charged. Does the converter get bypassed when on battery power? Is there some kind of transfer switch?

Len
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Old 07-02-2014, 07:05 AM   #5
gkainz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lenster View Post
I tried the 12V lights from the main Keystone display panel. No lights in fridge either.

As I'm doing more googling, I'm now thinking this might be a issue with the 12V system as opposed to a fridge problem. But I remember the flashing fridge lights as being some kind of troubleshooting code. Does the fridge need 12VDC power to swithc over to gas?
Yes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lenster View Post
So the 12V lights are working when I'm hooked up to 120VAC but not off the battery which is fully charged. Does the converter get bypassed when on battery power? Is there some kind of transfer switch?

Len
Yes, no, well sort of Maybe? Depends on how your system is wired? When plugged into shore power, the converter is providing 12V DC to the battery and to the rest of the 12V system. However, not sure if it THRU the battery or AS WELL AS the battery. When on 12V only, there's nothing for the converter to convert - it only converts 120V AC to 12V DC.



I still think you need to check ALL your 12V fuses, but the fridge fuse especially.
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Old 07-02-2014, 07:05 AM   #6
jkohler70
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The fridge uses 12V DC to ignite the pilot. I had this same problem when my battery died. I was always on shore power when camping, so I didn't realize my battery was shot until my fridge failed to switch over.
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Old 07-02-2014, 07:15 AM   #7
gkainz
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Maybe you said it above and I missed it, but do you have a battery shutoff switch? And is it OFF?

Since you mentioned 13VDC at the battery I'm going to assume either you don't have a battery cutoff switch or it's ON (13V would indicate the converter is providing charging voltage to the battery ... and 13 - 14.8VDC is not out of line for a charging voltage. 12.8VDC is a fully charged battery with no charging voltage coming in).
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Old 07-02-2014, 08:13 AM   #8
Lenster
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Since it needs 12V to ignite the gas, and it works when I'm connected to shore, there must be something that prevents the 12V from powering up that circuit. I need to check the schematics.

My manual says I have two fuses for the fridge, a 3A fuse for the control system and a 5A fuse for the AC heater. I will check the fuses but it doesn't sound like this is the issue, as the control panel is fully functional, and my problem is on the 12V side.

I measured the voltage at the battery while it was being charged. During my testing, I actually switched the disconnect off and on, to make sure, no difference. Battery power is not getting to the gas ignition circuit. Note to self about testing the voltage stand-alone. Maybe < 12V when not charging...

Question: The switch has a label which says: Battery Disconnect, OFF and ON. When in the OFF position, does this mean the battery disconnect is OFF with the battery available to power the 12V system, or does this mean the battery is OFF, meaning no power to the RV? In other words, does OFF mean disconnect closed or opened? is it just me or does this sound confusing?
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Old 07-02-2014, 12:10 PM   #9
gkainz
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Since most modern RVs don't "HAVE" to have a battery installed, one can assume a properly functioning converter will provide all the 12VDC needed to operate all the 12VDC equipment while plugged into 120VAC shore power.

re: battery disconnect ... if it's wired normally, then OFF and ON indicate if the battery is disconnected or isolated (OFF) or connected (ON).

Assuming your cutoff switch is at the battery, there should be a red cable from battery to switch, then another red from switch to junction block or fuse.

To troubleshoot, following the electrical path from battery to fuse panel - note below that RED cabling may be or may change to BLACK somewhere in the path, as the system changes from automotive to RV standards.

While unplugged from 120V AC (to eliminate DC feed from converter), meter between the POS and NEG posts on the battery. That's your battery voltage (and may indicate higher than 12.5 due to surface charge from the converter).

Meter between NEG post on the battery and cut-off switch at the red cable from battery to switch. You should see the same voltage as at the battery terminals. If yes, then this cable is good.

Meter between NEG post on the battery and red cable on the other side of the switch (going from switch to fuse or junction block). If the switch is on the OFF position, you should read 0 VDC. Turn switch ON and you should read the same as at the battery.

Meter between the NEG battery post and the other end of the red cable at the junction box or fuse. Again, with switch ON, should read the same as the battery.

Finally, meter between the NEG battery post and the other post on the junction block or fuse. Again, should read the same as the battery.

Going inside to your breaker and fuse panel, you should have a lug marked DC Positive + or similar. While still disconnected from 120 VAC, meter between that block and the block containing all the white wires, perhaps marked DC Negative - or similar. Again - should be very close to battery voltage (minus a little bit for voltage drop.

Meter to the output side of each fuse and again should read close to battery voltage. Any that show 0 VDC indicate a blown fuse.

You can verify by pulling the fuse, inspecting and metering for continuity.

I hope this doesn't sound condescending ... if so, please forgive me. Here's a typical 12VDC wiring diagram (simplistic but representative).


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