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Old 10-27-2013, 12:07 PM   #1
Povo
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Winterizing

I thought I had posted this a while back but apparently not. We have a new 2014 Cougar 327 res. I used to winterize our first camper (Central Oregon winters) but when we bought our first Cougar 5ver I had the dealer do it (about $60 that included an overall safety check). Not as convenient anymore. So my question is: Where can I find step by step instructions to winterize our new 5ver? I know it's not overly complicated but I don't want to miss anything.
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Old 10-27-2013, 12:12 PM   #2
hankaye
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Povo, Howdy;

Have you tried the search function????

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Old 10-27-2013, 01:31 PM   #3
buzzcop63
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keystonerv.com, customer service, manuals, save file and you will have the 2013 Owners Manual, below is copy of Winterizing section:

Water Heater By-Pass Kit
If equipped, a by-pass kit allows winterization of the fresh water system without putting RV anti-freeze into the water heater. The by-pass valve(s) are located on the back of the water heater (which is inside the unit) and in by-pass mode, allow water to travel through a “cross-over” line connecting the input and the output lines of the water heater. BE CAREFUL, if in by-pass mode, turning on a “hot” water spigot, WILL NOT put water in the water heater and lighting the water heater with an empty tank could damage the tank which may not be warrantable.
Water Heater Storage & Draining
When not using the unit, drain the water from the water heater tank. Over time, water quality can degrade which can permanently contaminate the lining of the water heater tank. Also, drain the water heater during cold weather to avoid damage from freezing.
To Drain the Water Heater:
1.
Turn off power to the water heater at the switch or the main breaker.
2.
Shut off the gas supply and the water pump.
3.
Open all fixtures, both hot and cold throughout the unit.
4.
Remove/open the exterior access door to the water heater.
5.
Remove the drain plug (or anode rod if equipped) from the tank.
6.
Open the pressure relief valve to allow air in and water will drain out tank.
Winterization
RV components can be damaged from the effects of freezing. Protection of the plumbing system and related components is crucial. Damages due to weather are not covered under warranty at any time. Many recreational vehicle owners choose to have their units winterized by their dealer, while others choose to do it themselves. Following are descriptions of two methods used to winterize:
1.
Compressed Air (Dry) Method - Uses compressed air to blow out any remaining water in the system after draining the system of all water. This method requires an air compressor and appropriate adapters.
2.
RV Anti-Freeze (Wet) Method - Uses RV approved, nontoxic, potable, anti-freeze in the system and does not require any special tools.
Many Keystone products include an optional by-pass kit that allows the plumbing system to bypass the hot water heater, reducing the amount of anti-freeze that will be needed (by-pass kits are available at most RV service centers for a reasonable expense and can be installed during winterization). Without a by-pass kit installed, an additional 6 – 10 gallons of anti-freeze will be required.
On the following page are the procedures for both methods. Your local dealer is best suited to answering any questions as well as providing information on winterization and storage that may be particular to the climate in your area. If using the compressed air method, a special adapter should be purchased to allow compressed air to be delivered through the city water fill. These adapters are available at most RV supply stores.
Method 1 - Compressed Air (With By-Pass Kit Installed)
1.
Purchase 1-2 gallons of RV non-toxic anti-freeze.
2.
Use compressed air (max 30 psi) to blow out the black tank flush system if equipped.
3.
Drain the fresh water tank and empty the waste water holding tanks.
56
Keystone RV Company Owner’s Manual 4/1/2013
4.
Drain water heater.
5.
Turn water heater by-pass valve to by-pass position. (The by-pass valve is located near the water heater incoming lines – an access panel may have to be removed depending upon the model.)
6.
If installed, remove water filter from assembly and discard. Install diverter if included.
7.
Open all faucets, including shower head sprayer, toilet flushing device and water line drains. Remember the outside shower if equipped.
8.
Turn on the water pump for 30 seconds to clear out any water in the suction line.
9.
Connect an air hose with an adapter to the city water fill connection.
10.
Set the pressure no greater than 30 pounds and blow out the water lines until no water can be seen coming out of the fixtures and lines.
11.
Close all drains.
12.
Pour about one quart of RV anti-freeze into drains, p-traps, toilet, and tanks.
Method 2 - RV Anti-Freeze (With By-Pass Kit Installed)
1.
Purchase 4 -6 gallons of RV approved, non-toxic, anti-freeze.
2.
Use compressed air (max 30 psi) to blow out the black tank flush system if equipped. An alternate method is to pump antifreeze into the inlet with a hand pump available from your RV dealer.
3.
Drain all tanks, fresh water and sewage tanks.
4.
Drain water heater. Close the drains after water has drained.
5.
Turn water heater by-pass valve to by-pass position. (The by-pass valve is located near the water heater incoming lines – an access panel may have to be removed depending upon the model.)
6.
If installed, remove water filter from assembly and discard. Install diverter if included.
7.
Pour an amount of RV non-toxic anti-freeze into the fresh water tank to fill the tank above minimum water pump operating level. (Use of a long funnel may be helpful) Add more, if necessary, during procedure. An alternate method is to install a bypass hose on the suction side of the water pump and pull direct from the anti-freeze container. See your RV dealer for necessary hose and fittings.
8.
Turn on pump switch and open the cold water side of all faucet fixtures. Leave open until the anti-freeze comes out (generally, pink in color). Repeat for hot water side. Remember the outside shower if equipped.
9.
Flush toilet until anti-freeze begins to flow into the bowl and then pour one quart of anti-freeze down the toilet to winterize the black tank. Leave a small amount of antifreeze in the toilet to cover the seals.
10.
Pour about one quart of anti-freeze down each shower/tub, lavatory sink, and kitchen sink to fill p-traps.
See video at www.keystonerv.com for more information.
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Old 10-27-2013, 01:31 PM   #4
Festus2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hankaye View Post
Povo, Howdy;

Have you tried the search function????

hankaye
x2

There are dozens of posts/threads about this topic (winterizing) that are already on the forum. There are a few that do outline, in step-by-step sequence, the process that should be followed. Except for some minor variations, the steps are pretty much standard.

For some reason if you can't find this information here, try a Google search -- type in Winterizing an RV and you'll find even more info.

I believe that if you go the Keystone website (www.keystonerv.com) there is a video available on winterizing as well.

Lots of info out there.
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Old 10-27-2013, 02:04 PM   #5
Povo
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Thanks everyone (man, that was fast!). I probably could have searched around a bit before posting....
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Old 10-27-2013, 02:13 PM   #6
Festus2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Povo View Post
Thanks everyone . I probably could have searched around a bit before posting....
Povo --

Yes- our Search feature is useful - when used.
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Old 10-28-2013, 05:17 AM   #7
Bowti
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Povo View Post
Thanks everyone (man, that was fast!). I probably could have searched around a bit before posting....
Some lists are better than others. I try to read most of them and then make a hard copy specific to my 5r. This was the first year for me with the 5r and I thought I had it winterized until I found another list that reminded me not to forget the BLACK WATER FLUSH line. I had missed it, but this forum saved my butt.
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Old 10-28-2013, 07:38 AM   #8
Pmedic4
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Steps for winterizing

There are a lot of different plans for winterizing, and I won't criticize any of them, but what really helped me, was to sit down and think about which faucets, valves, and tanks are located in our personal RV before I started, and make a short checklist. Also, I wanted to do closest to source first, because to me that made more sense to push the water out to the further place, so some water didn't flow down from the first faucet/valve as you fill it, but it probably doesn't matter as long as you use enough anti-freeze. To me if you just follow the general instructions, you may forget one in your RV. I started where the water goes into, and logically followed it out to the drain valves.
Something like this:

1. Freshwater tank in - fill cap
2. City water in - hose connect
3. Fresh water tank drain - cap
4. Water pump - RV Anti-freeze siphon valve
5. Hot water heater - Plug
6. Hot water heater - pressure relief valve
7. Hot water heater - bypass valve
8. Low point drain cap - cold
9. Low point drain cap - hot
10. Kitchen sink cold water valve
...... and so on
xx. Gray water tank 2 drain valve.

If you make it a checklist, you most likely won't forget something on the day you do winterize. Seems like I use to do it 3 times, because I would forget something, and have to go back over it again.
I first use the compressor to blow air through all the lines, and then follow up with anti-freeze in all the lines - twice as long, but piece of mind.

The good part is, winterizing really doesn't take all that long. When I see charges listing $75-100 for winterizing, I'm shocked. You could easily buy 20 gallons of anti-freeze @ $3 a gallon and fill the hot water heater if you didn't even want to mess with draining it. It will definitely take less time to do it yourself than hooking up and driving to the dealer.
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