Let's Talk Lift Kits

[Nankipoo]

Did a search and came up with no threads. Looking to raise the 5th wheel my daughter just purchased up some. 2 inch would sure help but a little more would be better. What would be the best safest way to do it. Hitch in truck is as low as it will go to provide rail clearance.

[bsmith0404]

I’m assuming you meant the hitch in the truck is as high as it will go or the king pin is as low as it will go to provide rail clearance.

The best way to lift anything is with the springs. I don’t know if you can find any company that provides an arched spring that would provide more lift and I don’t know how that would work with the double axle design since it would change all the geometry. Works great with a single axle, but a spring with more arch will be longer when it flattens out and probably wouldn’t work well with rv suspension.

That basically leaves you with adding block between the springs and axles with longer u bolts. I’m assuming the springs are already above the axles. If the springs are below the axles, you can flip that and put the springs above the axles, that will add about 4” of lift. Just be careful when lifting an RV, just like anything else, it makes them more too heavy. Also, check the height before lifting so you know how far you can go and still be under 13’6”

[Nankipoo]

Originally Posted by bsmith0404

I’m assuming you meant the hitch in the truck is as high as it will go or the king pin is as low as it will go to provide rail clearance.

The best way to lift anything is with the springs. I don’t know if you can find any company that provides an arched spring that would provide more lift and I don’t know how that would work with the double axle design since it would change all the geometry. Works great with a single axle, but a spring with more arch will be longer when it flattens out and probably wouldn’t work well with rv suspension.

That basically leaves you with adding block between the springs and axles with longer u bolts. I’m assuming the springs are already above the axles. If the springs are below the axles, you can flip that and put the springs above the axles, that will add about 4” of lift. Just be careful when lifting an RV, just like anything else, it makes them more too heavy. Also, check the height before lifting so you know how far you can go and still be under 13’6”

Springs are all ready over axles. Yes we can't lower hitch in truck anymore to keep bed rail clearance.

[Canonman]

Our Cougar rides a bit nose high as well. I use a local welder/fabricator. He added our 2" receiver hitch, welded to the frame, very strong. He cautions against the spring blocks or other bolt on options. For a 2" increase he recommends replacing the hangers with longer ones thereby lowering the axles. For 4" or more, he creates a box frame welded to the factory frame and then attaches the axels to that.
After looking at our rig, he didn't think there was any need to lift the Cougar. "Hardly worth messing with" was his opinion.

[flybouy]

Doesn't the correct track system add about 2"?

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by flybouy

Doesn't the correct track system add about 2"?

I would go that route.

[bsmith0404]

Originally Posted by flybouy

Doesn't the correct track system add about 2"?

Never thought about that. Yeah it adds about 2”.

[JRTJH]

Probably the simplest and likely the cheapest way is the Lippert Tandem Axle Lift Kit. https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws...cd-0001340.pdf

It's available from Lippert, designed to fit their frames/spring hangers and supported by their customer service....

https://support.lci1.com/lift-kits

Although it has been discontinued, the kits are still available at many parts stores and online.

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by flybouy

Doesn't the correct track system add about 2"?

Yes it does, I install on our. Loper Canyon and was just what we needed. Similar to the Lift Kit mentioned above, only has cams to change the axle spacing. I believe that they actually strengthen the spring hangers by their design. Hope you can find a set somewhere.

[Nankipoo]

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Lea...ol/RR23QX.html

Are y'all talking about that one?

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by Nankipoo

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Lea...ol/RR23QX.html

Are y'all talking about that one?

That one should work.

[Canonman]

We have the Correct Track already installed from the factory so I didn't think about that as an option for the OP. Most newer 5ers do as well.
I mostly wanted to raise the back end for clearance reasons. When we had the receiver hitch installed, the fabricator simply mounted the bumper above the hitch. Problem solved for us

[bobbecky]

I installed trailer blocks several years ago and this made a world of difference with our rig. The load is balanced between the axles now, braking seems better as well as handling. This is the link to the kit I used, and went with the 2" blocks The dollar amount is Canadian, so US Dollars will be much less. https://www.trailerblocks.com/collec...ing-tie-plates

[Nankipoo]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

That one should work.

That looks like a lot of pieces.

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by Nankipoo

That looks like a lot of pieces.

Yeah, but there are how many attachment points that need changing? It will come with detailed instructions. Read twice install once.

[packnrat]

Originally Posted by bobbecky

I installed trailer blocks several years ago and this made a world of difference with our rig. The load is balanced between the axles now, braking seems better as well as handling. This is the link to the kit I used, and went with the 2" blocks The dollar amount is Canadian, so US Dollars will be much less. https://www.trailerblocks.com/collec...ing-tie-plates

i would make new spring plate twice as thick with reinforcements and increase the bolt dia. as the blocks will increase the stress on all parts.
and try to never lock up the brakes in a emg. as they can twist off the springs, or snap the bolts/mounts.
and are the blocks steel or cheep pot metal/ alu. etc use only steel, all other metals will fail in time.

[bobbecky]

Originally Posted by packnrat

i would make new spring plate twice as thick with reinforcements and increase the bolt dia. as the blocks will increase the stress on all parts.
and try to never lock up the brakes in a emg. as they can twist off the springs, or snap the bolts/mounts.
and are the blocks steel or cheep pot metal/ alu. etc use only steel, all other metals will fail in time.

The kits from trailerblocks.com come with 9/16" U-bolts, nuts, and new plates for the larger U-bolts. We have disc brakes and there does not seem to be any problem with the suspension when heavy braking occurs. The blocks are heavy aluminum blocks, not pot metal.

[440scout]

Or, you can buy 4 new leaf springs for $238 on Amazon. The ones I saw are for the 7000 pound, 3 inch thick axles, but you can get different ones for different size axles. If you get them, I recommend buying 8 new brass bushings, too. The reviews seem to be middle of the road.

[jasin1]

this popped up a while back on the random album pics

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by Nankipoo

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Lea...ol/RR23QX.html

Are y'all talking about that one?

Originally Posted by chuckster57

That one should work.

Originally Posted by Nankipoo

That looks like a lot of pieces.

LOL! There are actually more parts there would be six sections of rectangular tube that gets placed between the existing spring hangers. They stiffen the existing hangers, to prevent flexing.