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Old 08-16-2022, 02:10 PM   #1
ChrisB
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Transfer switch 50a

We have a 2017 keystone carbon. It has an Onan 5500 genset that runs like a top. It has been plugged in nearly all its life in storage. Recently we relocated it and had to replace the batteries. That was when I realized my transfer switch was not transferring from the generator to the distribution panel. Pulled the cover off the transfer switch hoping to see obvious issues. But I am confused now. I could see 110 at the generator termination. I could not find power anywhere else. Pulled the interior of th transfer switch out to examine the coil. Power getting to the contacts and the relay is functioning properly changing the relay state by sensing current at the generator feed. Incould even get power thru the output of the coil with the contacts made but between those contacts and the terminal strip6" of wire. Neither leg is hot on the term strip. I ordered a new transfer switch but I just want to know what is wrong with this one. Any ideas would be appreciated
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Old 08-16-2022, 02:14 PM   #2
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WFCO WF-T57-R transfer switch
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Old 08-16-2022, 02:38 PM   #3
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how long did you wait to check for transfer ? there is a 30 sec or more time delay when you turn on the generator ..the t57 has that built in…are you using a hardwired ems? that could be time delayed as well ……other safety’s if you try to manually override the contactor
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Old 08-16-2022, 04:59 PM   #4
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I was in the compartment with the generator running for around 15 min. The relay engages, the contacts close to connect generator power thru the relay. I was able to see 120 on both output terminals of the relay. But I could not read 110 vac at the terminal strip at the other end of the short cables from the relay to the terminal AL strip in the power that feed the distribution panel. It makes no sense unless something has happened to the neutral. Also touching both L1 & L2 the meter does not give 220/240 vac. It read .03 then .02 then 0
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Old 08-16-2022, 06:34 PM   #5
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If your generator only has 120 volt output and that 120 volts is split to power both the L1 and L2, they are at the same potential, so that would be like putting both the volt meter probes on the same wire and you will read zero volts. If you read anything else, then you would definitely have a problem. You also will not get 240 volts from a 120 volt source.
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Old 08-16-2022, 06:43 PM   #6
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I assumed by the information on the transfer switch it develops 240 vac
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Old 08-17-2022, 03:27 AM   #7
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The transfer switch doesn't develop anything.. As the name implies,, it transfers the energy from one point to another.. alternating current is a sine wave. It changes from peak positive to peak negative 60 times/sec. That single wave is one phase of a 3 phase feed. As there are 3 phases generated at power plants each phase would be 120 apart. If you are measuring across two 120 vac lines and read 240 vac you are measuring two didderent lines. Most portable generators are single phase and split or share that phase.
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Old 08-17-2022, 04:25 AM   #8
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i believe this is the generator you have
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Old 08-17-2022, 04:59 AM   #9
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ThNks for the clarification. I understand the phase issue but was unaware that most generators only produced single phase. That makes sense, and how Reading L1 to L2 is like reading across the same conductor.
But what does still not make sense is that L1 Or L2 to neutral didn't provide 120 vac. At the output lugs.
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Old 08-17-2022, 05:40 AM   #10
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Check from ground to L1 L2. If you have voltage then the neutral is missing. If no voltage to either then there's no output from the generator or thru the transfer contacts.
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Old 08-17-2022, 06:37 PM   #11
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On the relay, I checked all 6 terminals to ground. The four terminals carrying 120 vac to ground with the relay energized. The relay was observed in the non energized state making contact for the shore power terminals. But on the other side at the terminal strip. I could not get 120 between the neutral and L1 or L2. I expect it is sue to a problem with the neutral. My new transfer switch is coming tomorrow. So I can swap them out this weekend and further investigate the faulty transfer switch and see about fixing it and keeping it as a spare. At this rate I might have to seek a different brand. Thanks for all the assistance. I have learned a bit. I just bought new batteries for the trailer and put a self regulating solar panel to keep them topped off. Hopefully that doesn't cause any other problems.
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Old 08-17-2022, 06:51 PM   #12
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in the hvac world ive seen contactors with burnt contacts and weak coils that wont fully pull in the contacts..ive also had bugs or spiders get caught between the contacts and prevent it from fully engaging
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Old 08-18-2022, 04:29 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisB View Post
On the relay, I checked all 6 terminals to ground. The four terminals carrying 120 vac to ground with the relay energized. The relay was observed in the non energized state making contact for the shore power terminals. But on the other side at the terminal strip. I could not get 120 between the neutral and L1 or L2. I expect it is sue to a problem with the neutral. My new transfer switch is coming tomorrow. So I can swap them out this weekend and further investigate the faulty transfer switch and see about fixing it and keeping it as a spare. At this rate I might have to seek a different brand. Thanks for all the assistance. I have learned a bit. I just bought new batteries for the trailer and put a self regulating solar panel to keep them topped off. Hopefully that doesn't cause any other problems.
Looking at the photo in your first post the relay does not switch the neutral or the ground. Most mechanical relays only switch the lines as yours does. There's no need to switch the line or neutral so it would cost more as it's unnecessary. As Jasinj1 stated, often it only takes some pitting on the contacts to prevent the electricity from flowing.
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Old 08-26-2022, 11:29 AM   #14
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I have an Onan 5500 geny (gas) on my older Raptor and it is 240VAC. (L1=120V, L2=120V). L1 to neutral = 120V, L2 to neutral = 120V, L1 to L2 = 240V. It should be setup just like a residential house. The utility feeds you two separate 120VAC lines along with a neutral. For larger loads, like an air conditioner, you'd run two 120V lines (one from the left side of the panel and the other from the right side of the panel) along with a shared neutral to supply 240VAC. Take a look at your circuit breaker panel inside the trailer. If you have a 2-pole circuit breaker as a main breaker (the handles of the circuit breaker will be tied together) then you will have 240V from L1 to L2.
If you are testing this while plugged in at home using a standard 15A NEMA 5-15R receptacle/extension cord, you will not be supplying 240V to the trailer, just 120V (since that outlet is only wired with either L1 or L2, not both). I'm not sure if that's your testing problem. Fire up your geny and the check voltage on L1 & L2 directly from the generator's lugs, you should see 240VAC. If you see 240VAC, then you definitely have an issue with your transfer switch.
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Old 08-26-2022, 11:46 AM   #15
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Thanks for the information. The trailer is stored about 45 min from my residence. With that said I have not been back to the trailer since original inquiry. Even though I don't yet understand why it is acting up. I have a new transfer switch that I should be taking over there this afternoon or sometime this weekend. Hopefully when I get it replaced I will be able to bring the old unit home and do some further testing to determine the problem. I did look up the model number online and was informed the generator only produces 120vac on the same phase. I may have miss read that but from the generator I get 120 from each leg but do not get 240 across L1 & L2. It shows zero. Which would indicate same feed. Hopefully it works as expected this afternoon. I will report the results when I am done.
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