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Old 08-02-2022, 08:04 AM   #21
flybouy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dlawhun View Post
Thanks all for the well thought out responses, guidance, suggestions & opinions. So, I have assimilated further enlightenment on my particulars for your reading pleasure (& further opinions).

Checking the mfr decal on the front left side of my (original owner) 2018 Keystone Hideout Travel Trlr tandem axle I have: 7,825 lb GVWR, Load Range C, 60 PSI, 3,500 lb per axle GAWR--1,750 lb per tire? I presume my hitch is responsible for carrying the balance (825 lb) of the total GVWR.

My Karrier (OE), Gladiator, Primewell tires were made in China while the Hartland was made in Thailand.

So, technically, it would appear I could stick with LRC tires based on the mfg Decal but for quality, safety, longevity, etc. purposes I should at least go with a higher standard tire, e.g., Goodyear Endurance or Carlisle Radial Trail HD perhaps. I see Discount has them for $136, $115 respectively in my size AND in the LRD (vs. LRC) version. (I'm toying with keeping the relatively new Gladiator (LRD) as a spare to cut my losses pulling all the other tires.) And then there's still the TPMS acquisition--TST507 perhaps--to round out my makeover.

What say ye now?
Looks like a good decision. To comment on your country of origin, it's not really about where it's made but WHO is making it there. The reliable tires made in the far east have employees on site to ensure quality. There are other brands that don't do this and it appears to show up as reported tire failures. Tires have a code molded into the sidewal identifying the manufacturing facility.

IMO the Carlise "D" rated tires are hard to beat for the money in that size. I would sell the tires locally and not conceal the fact that you don't "trust" or prefer the brand. My guess is someone that owns a lawn service or someone that has a utility trailer that they use occasionally. If you "give them away" to the tire installer they will charge you a disposal fee and they will sell them.

Good choice on the TPMS as well. They are quality units and their CS was great when I last contacted them. A TPMS will alert you if you have a blow out and are great for letting you know if you have a slow leak say from picking up a nail. On the spare, I would change it out as well. Then all the tires match and can be trusted.
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Old 08-02-2022, 09:27 AM   #22
sourdough
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Looks like a good decision. Some additional info for thought;

Your LRC tires have a weight rating of 1820lbs. at 50psi (except the Karrier which is a Kenda tire rated at 60psi.). 1820x4 = 7280lbs. vs gvwr of 7825lbs. That leaves 545lbs. of weight that the hitch HAS to have on it. The LRD tires have a weight capacity of 2150lbs. x 4 = 8600lbs. vs a gvwr 7825 = 775lbs. capacity reserve over gvwr or almost 10%. Personally I buy tires that will carry at least the gvwr of the trailer.

Note that the Karrier tire you intend to keep as a spare has a speed limitation of 62mph per the Tractor Supply website. Also the Walmart website gives a 1760lb. weight capacity for the C vs the other sites that say 1820? I don't know your history with tires but my initial thought would be to replace all 5 tires if tire failures are an issue. If they aren't then that spare would probably just age out sitting on the spare rack - you will have to make that call.

As far as TPMS systems you can't go wrong with the TST 507 IMO. I've had mine for many years and they are dependable with great customer support.
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Old 08-04-2022, 09:02 AM   #23
Bill6312
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Tires

While you are at it, check the brakes and repack the wheel bearings
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Old 08-04-2022, 10:19 AM   #24
Tireman9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HouseMouse View Post
Just my opinion... Start with all new Tires. All the same brand. All from a quality manufacturer. Assuming all else is working or in good order with the TT. Follow the specifications of the tire sticker that is on the trailer someplace. Start with a Baseline you know that is fresh.
Comments on various posts: The Certification Label aka Tire sticker is, per regulation for trailers, to be on the driver side, outside, toward the front of the trailer. RVs with Doors such as Motorhomes, have the sticker on the driver door jam just like cars do.

I agree that you will be better off with LR-D titres at 65 psi and using "bolt-in" metal valve stems with TPMS system. (Do not accept rubber "snap-in" stems that have thin metal clad over rubber insides).

Of the tires mentioned I believe that GY Endurance and Carslile and Sailun make ST type tires. Michelin does not.

Whatever you select please be sure you get the RV on a truck scale with the RV fully loaded to learn the actual load on thur tires. BUT you can learn the weight on each axle. Since you can not easily get the load on individual tires so I suggest you assume one end of the heavier axle is supporting 52% of that axle's scale reading. You can consult Load Inflation tables to learn if there is alternate tire type (LT) or which Load Range ( LR-C or LR-D) is needed to ensure the tire capacity is at least 110% of the calculated heavy loaded tire.

Some people have small utility trailers that could use your old tires at maybe $10 to $20 each.

My personal choice for TPMS is TireTraker but I am currently running a set of TST and a set of Traker so I have what i think is the only direct comparison of different TPMS with data published on the Internet.
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Old 08-08-2022, 11:50 AM   #25
Dlawhun
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Just finished swapping out the last of my mis-matched w/ all new Carlisle's LRD . . . BTW, the remaining OE Karrier dated "3317" had the makings of a flat side w/ bulges on the interior so I suppose it was about to fail--further support I suppose for swapping out tires based on age vs. waiting for them to get one's attention in perhaps an unpleasant manner / timing.

Lastly (?) & while I'm waiting to take delivery of my 1st TPMS, any suggestions, do's/don'ts w/ regards to a portable compressor? My dream one would do everything from pool floats to my new 65psi Carlisles but I'm guessin' an all-in-one may not be feasible / appropriate? I was scopin' out Viair's 300P-RVS maybe?
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Old 08-08-2022, 11:57 AM   #26
BigBobIa
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TT Dual Axle - Tire Mfr / LR / psi / Pairings?

I have a few Dewalt batteries so I have this one.

DEWALT 20V MAX* Cordless Tire Inflator, Tool Only (DCC020IB) https://a.co/d/81XvsbW

Will blow up/deflate my air mattress or top off the 100 psi on the 5er or 80 psi on the truck. Taking the truck tires from 65 to 80 does take more than 1 battery and cooling time between tires.
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Old 08-08-2022, 01:40 PM   #27
sourdough
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Originally Posted by Dlawhun View Post
Just finished swapping out the last of my mis-matched w/ all new Carlisle's LRD . . . BTW, the remaining OE Karrier dated "3317" had the makings of a flat side w/ bulges on the interior so I suppose it was about to fail--further support I suppose for swapping out tires based on age vs. waiting for them to get one's attention in perhaps an unpleasant manner / timing.

Lastly (?) & while I'm waiting to take delivery of my 1st TPMS, any suggestions, do's/don'ts w/ regards to a portable compressor? My dream one would do everything from pool floats to my new 65psi Carlisles but I'm guessin' an all-in-one may not be feasible / appropriate? I was scopin' out Viair's 300P-RVS maybe?

If you're looking at the Viair 300P I would encourage you to look at the 400 or 450 instead. Greater output and better duty cycles as I recall. The 450P is 100%. I've got the 400 and have never had a problem but sometimes think I'll get the 450. Viair makes the best, or right at it, portable compressors out there. Other brands you could look at are ARB or Smittybilt. The Smittybilt 2781? puts out more air but doesn't have the duty cycle of the 450 so in the end probably works out to about the same. I've not owned a Smittybilt compressor but have owned their XRC8 winch. The quality (of the winch) was fairly good but IMO the Viair is much better. I know you are hoping for an all in one type unit but I carry a 120vac Porter Cable 6 gal. compressor as well to use when I have 120vac available.
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Old 08-08-2022, 02:07 PM   #28
flybouy
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Just a note on the bolt in high pressure valve stems. Check your wheels for clearance where the valve stem is mounted. On many OEM wheels you will need stems that bolt on from the inside. The 502 High Pressure metal stems have a flange on the stem ant they mount from the outside and are bolted in on the inside. Not all tire shops keep them in inventory.when I buy tires I buy the valve stems and for the minimal cost keep a set of 4 in the glove box just in case a need arises while traveling.
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