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Old 11-01-2021, 09:46 AM   #41
twanger
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I just saw this Keystone SolarFlex 400i demo unit. A bit confusing the extra wires at the "Inverter prep" box, the 6"x6" box in the middle of the pic, etc. Ugh. How confusing!
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Old 11-01-2021, 12:53 PM   #42
flybouy
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Things that are not understood tend to appear to be perplexing. Electricity is not forgiving. An error can cause damage, injury, and death. It's not a "try it and fixit it if I goof up" proposition. It can easily become a "try it and fry it" situation where the "it" could be you. I would urge anyone not familiar with electrical circuitry, wireing proceedures and safety to hire a professional.
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Old 11-01-2021, 01:35 PM   #43
entropy1980
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twanger View Post
I just saw this Keystone SolarFlex 400i demo unit. A bit confusing the extra wires at the "Inverter prep" box, the 6"x6" box in the middle of the pic, etc. Ugh. How confusing!
Exactly! To me, when they say "prep" it should be ready to just add inverter, not add inverter, fuse, shutoff, extra wire, drill more holes etc. They should just call it "Panel Loop".
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Old 11-01-2021, 01:43 PM   #44
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The only thing worse is calling a line of trailers "1/2 ton towable". Or maybe "arctic or polar package, or maybe ......
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Old 11-01-2021, 03:45 PM   #45
jxnbbl
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2 vs 3 port on roof question...

One question that's been bugging me. On my OTG package it came with a pre-installed 2 port housing mounted on the roof. In talking with ZAMP they assured me that to expand to 3 panels I could connect one panel directly to one of the ports and then connect the other 2 panels to a "Y connector" that unites the wiring to the connect to the other port in the housing.

So the question - what is the advantage of having a 3 port housing on the roof (the panels actually came with a 3 port housing that I could swap out if desired).

thanks
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Old 11-01-2021, 04:40 PM   #46
mikec557
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jxnbbl View Post
One question that's been bugging me. On my OTG package it came with a pre-installed 2 port housing mounted on the roof. In talking with ZAMP they assured me that to expand to 3 panels I could connect one panel directly to one of the ports and then connect the other 2 panels to a "Y connector" that unites the wiring to the connect to the other port in the housing.

So the question - what is the advantage of having a 3 port housing on the roof (the panels actually came with a 3 port housing that I could swap out if desired).

thanks
I'm not sure "advantage" is the right word. I think the number of ports, be it 2 or 3, are just a convenience for the DIY installer. One port per panel makes it easy. Two panels to one port with a Y-connector isn't hard, but it might muddy the water for some DIYers.

What is more critical is the size wire Keystone used on the back side of the ports, routing it down to the solar charge controller (SCC) location. I wish I'd written this down, because at the moment I can't remember, but Keystone used either 8ga or 10ga wire from my 2-port to the SCC location. The wire size dictates the maximum amount of amps from the combined solar panels. Regardless of how many ports are on the rooftop.

On my Zamp 2-port is embossed with the statement "500 watts maximum". Zoom in on the picture at this link. You'll see the embossed message. Notice the site also says do not exceed 30 amps, noting 3x 170 watt solar panels.

https://www.specialized.net/zamp-sol...zNAmWjcnBszQhR


All we can do is hope Keystone used heavy enough gauge wire... because there's no pulling out their wire and putting in thicker. If you want bigger gauge wire you'll need to abandon their Zamp port and install the old fashioned way.

So 2-ports or 3-ports, I don't think it matters.

To those folks with a 3-port Zamp gland, is there an embossed message about max amps?

Side note: this entire conversation assumes wiring your panels in parallel. If you have three, you may be interested in wiring in series, and using an MPPT SCC. And then you'd use only ONE port.
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Old 11-02-2021, 04:38 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikec557 View Post
....
To those folks with a 3-port Zamp gland, is there an embossed message about max amps?

Side note: this entire conversation assumes wiring your panels in parallel. If you have three, you may be interested in wiring in series, and using an MPPT SCC. And then you'd use only ONE port.
It does not. (pics attached). What the dealer added to my deal was the 170W kit with panel, mounting, controller, one panel, wire and roof cap. Then I bought two 170W expansion kits (just panels and mounting).

So the Zamp tech just stated make sure the pre-wire is at least the same gauge as what is in the kit (actually one gauge larger) and buy a Y cord. The 510W is the max.

This conversation came together for me this morning. Each panel generates 9.4A (which with 3 panels is under 30A). The link you sent to me not only showed 500W max on the roof cap...it states - as you noted "Example: Run up to THREE 170W Zamp panels (with the use of a Y-Connector)."

BUT if you look at the same website at the 3 port cap - "You cannot add more panels to this system with a Y- Connector if using 170W panels."

So all is good. Thanks for the info.
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Old 11-02-2021, 07:07 AM   #48
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It does not. (pics attached). What the dealer added to my deal was the 170W kit with panel, mounting, controller, one panel, wire and roof cap. Then I bought two 170W expansion kits (just panels and mounting).

So the Zamp tech just stated make sure the pre-wire is at least the same gauge as what is in the kit (actually one gauge larger) and buy a Y cord. The 510W is the max.

This conversation came together for me this morning. Each panel generates 9.4A (which with 3 panels is under 30A). The link you sent to me not only showed 500W max on the roof cap...it states - as you noted "Example: Run up to THREE 170W Zamp panels (with the use of a Y-Connector)."

BUT if you look at the same website at the 3 port cap - "You cannot add more panels to this system with a Y- Connector if using 170W panels."

So all is good. Thanks for the info.
Glad I could help. I've got two 160 watt panels in parallel, but I'm thinking about wiring them in series. Not because of concern over wire gauge but to see if I get a noticeable increase of amps. I use a Victron MPPT SCC. But I think I'm just creating a project for the sake of curiosity. As it is, I can turn off the charger/converter while camping with shore power, use the batteries, and still recharge the batteries by 1 or 2pm. And I don't conserve 12v power in the least. I guess I'm just addicted to free power from the sun. LOL
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Old 01-12-2022, 05:13 AM   #49
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Just to circle back on this I was finally successful in connecting the MPPT controller to my iPhone via Bluetooth. I had to disconnect the MPPT controller from the system to get it to reboot and once complete it connected and has maintained connectivity without issue. It is very handy to see how much juice the batteries are getting from solar. Next step for me is to add a Victron smart battery shunt to monitor the state of the batteries.
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Old 01-30-2022, 07:53 AM   #50
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I have not added the inline inverter to my SolarFlex 200 system. However, I did find this bit of information on the Keystone website that may answer your question. It was found here: https://www.keystonerv.com/solarflex-200-overview about halfway down the page.

"Install 2000w inverter in inverted prep circuit -- Xantrex (KRV part# 653865) or Magnum (KRV part# 686127) recommended"

I hope this helps someone.
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Old 06-08-2022, 03:27 AM   #51
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Finally finished the install of the inverter and the 'accessories'....I have a future project left, but that will wait until we have used this for the summer.

Our situation is described in an earlier reply - LINK Where we were told that we were buying a solar flex 200, but the delivery ended up being a "new build" trailer with the (then new) gigi box, no panels and the OTG package. The dealer/sales team were great and they lopped off enough money for me to purchase the equivalent of the 200 and I upgraded it a bit. Pics attached from battery to panels....this basically is that standard wiring diagram that is posted here and in other threads

1. upgraded the battery box to a metal dual battery box - added weather proof tape near + connections to help with any incidental contact.
2. Made 2/0 battery jumpers, borrowed an commercial crimper from a friend.
3. resettable waterproof fuse.
4. Control panel that includes a bluetooth Zamp controller (mounted a legend of the lights as I'll never remember if not connected to my phone).
5. Shutoff switch for battery.
6. I added a junction box as the solar loop was too short for how I wanted the inverter.
7. A 2000W xantrex inverter with "pass through/transfer switch". I added the external outlet option.
8. An interior control panel for the xantrex.
9. 3 - 170W panels on the roof. (this is an early pic, wiring is neater now)

Last year I just put two of the panels on the roof to get us through out first journey that I had to keep the 12V fridge running to cool down homebrews without shore power...but finally finished.

The future project - After all of this I forgot/neglected/made bad assumption (don't know which one yet) but I thought there were 5 outlets on this 'prewire circuit". There are actually only 3 - one next to the bathroom bed, one on the island in the kitchen and the one behind the entertainment center. I will research out probably some type of distribution center and add wiring to other key outlets. One most likely will be an outlet in one of the bathrooms.
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Old 06-08-2022, 06:15 AM   #52
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The future project - After all of this I forgot/neglected/made bad assumption (don't know which one yet) but I thought there were 5 outlets on this 'prewire circuit". There are actually only 3 - one next to the bathroom bed, one on the island in the kitchen and the one behind the entertainment center. I will research out probably some type of distribution center and add wiring to other key outlets. One most likely will be an outlet in one of the bathrooms.

Looks good Jay, your last paragraph is the situation I ran into as well. Instead of running new wires I pulled my GFCI circuit off the main BUS and tapped it into the inverted outlet so now all of my GFCI outlets are running through/off the inverter and it works great
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