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Old 07-13-2020, 12:46 PM   #1
Timmybish
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springdale 260 bh

Hey everyone!

I'm really struggling out there online to find any customer reviews of the springdale 260bh. We are looking for our first TT and this is the floor plan and model we like for the price point after many different dealer visits.

They market it as the "#1 selling bunk without slide", yet there is nothing out there that I can find for internet reviews from consumers, just dealers. Maybe this means owners are happy and out enjoying it rather than writing?

or maybe I'm searching in all the wrong places?

Either way I'd love to hear what owners of this model feel about it.

We like the no slide to malfunction, we love the weight, and we like the floor plan

we don't love that they use copper pipe loops under the rig for natural gas pipes as this seems like a place to snag a stick and break, but I like the use of black pipe along the frame vs rubber tubing


I wish it had the 12v fridge option, and a king bed but beggars can't be choosers

I'm hearing these units are walking off the lot at around $15000 plus tax and tags, would love to know if this is true?

Tow vehicle is a 15 gmc slt with 1750 cargo cap and 9200 tow cap before someone asks. Truck is setup for towing, and frequently tows a #7000 equipment trailer
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Old 07-13-2020, 01:24 PM   #2
sourdough
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I'm not sure about dedicated reviews of a particular brand/model of trailer anywhere. Some models have dedicated forums or clubs where you could get some feedback. I'm not aware of one for your trailer.

Personally I wouldn't worry a lot about finding reviews. All RVs are built almost identically. Some come out of the factory and no one touches them again and some require constant repairs. If I knew how to tell you the difference I would be a very rich man.

The very most important thing IMO is to get a floorplan that will work for you and the family. Realize that the more time you spend in one the smaller it will seem to you. Some folks don't mind, some get a new trailer for the added space (less feeling of confinement).

After determining the perfect floorplan make absolutely sure you do a complete, thorough walk through and inspection before you sign on the dotted line. You want it up to snuff before you drive off with it instead of it sitting endless weeks at the dealer waiting on a repair. When it is time there is a PDI list on the forum that will be of great benefit to you.

Make sure you buy from a GOOD dealer with a good reputation. Now those you can usually find reviews on. If you need repairs made you want someone that will take care of you vs ignore you.

Make sure your truck is up to snuff for pulling the trailer. You posted a couple of numbers but there are many facets to towing an RV safely. Realize that trailer is almost 7800 lbs. and right at 29' long and 11' high....not at all like an equipment trailer. Remember max tow capacity is meaningless. The weights are what drive the size of the trailer you can tow; you will exceed those before you hit the max tow number generally. With a 13% tongue weight you are looking at 1014 lbs. off that payload. BTW did that payload number come off the sticker inside your door or a brochure? Look at those stickers for your gawr as well. You might run into that as well.

As far as going prices that will obviously vary by dealer. Some give great prices but never intend to do any warranty work for you (money loser for them). Some give great service but their price sometimes reflects it. The Keystone website says msrp is 19,835 but there are still some add ons that will probably be on the one you look at. That considered 15k might be doable but will depend on the dealer. Your best bet is to look, compare and get pricing from dealers you want to work with. If you're in NY and you find one 1-2k cheaper in TX, WA, AZ it's hardly worth it by the time you go get it, pay those expenses and lose the relationship with a dealer. Some things to think about.
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Old 07-13-2020, 01:33 PM   #3
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Hello and welcome to the forum!

Danny had provided excellent advice on what consider in your search for an RV.

Good luck, and we hope you find the one that suits your needs (and wants)!

Stay safe!
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Old 07-13-2020, 01:55 PM   #4
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Oh!! Welcome to the forum! Forgot to say that in my initial post. Lots of folks and lots of info here so just ask.
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Old 07-13-2020, 02:15 PM   #5
Timmybish
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Thanks Danny,

Just wondering where you are getting that 7800# number? Trailer dry is 5140, water tank adds 432# when full but I don't intend to travel with that full, so 2660 seems a bit excessive for cargo. I would imagine tongue weight closer to 620 pounds loaded but of course only the scale will tell.

My cargo cap on the truck is off the door not the brochure

Unfortunately for our area dealers that have a good reputation are non existent, with non of them having positive service reviews within 100 miles

Luckily I'm pretty handy, and have a pretty good understanding of how the systems operate and are built. I'm not afraid of fixing or repairing, and to be honest I don't know I would trust a dealer to fix it right knowing they are losing money on the deal. And I'm sure at $150 an hour charge by the dealership, the poor $15 an hour mechanic is in no hurry to get the work done either haha. I would rather find a dealer that would work with be to get a part if it was bad and self replace as I would take the time to fix the original install.

To be honest I'm amazed how the industry as a whole is allowed to put out such terrible quality and dump it on dealers as "warrantee work" we have walked through at least 30 brands, and probably 80 or more models and yet to see a quality difference. Trim not attached, poor hinge and door assembly, staples placed completely missing studs, plywood cuts way off of the marks under seats and bunks, and so on. (although winnebago has some nice models but you pay for it in weight and price) But I also get it that there are only 3 manufactures (Thor, Forrest River, and Winnebago) , and they are trying to pound out units. It's also sad to see the industry lag on technology and build products as not much has changed in 50 years of stick and tin construction but I digress....

I'm really hoping I can hear back from some owners on this model and see if they have had issues with those gas lines underneath, and how that floor plan works for them. It's a tad small but seems like it fits well in smaller campsites.
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Old 07-13-2020, 02:25 PM   #6
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This is the link to the trailer mentioned:

https://www.keystonerv.com/travel-tr...ravel-trailer/

To be safe and not continually have to worry about being overweight and the issues that can bring, and not being able to weigh a trailer you don't own, it is prudent to combine the dry weight and cargo capacity to get a gvw. Use that number and figure approx. 13% for tongue weight. That comes straight off the payload from your truck sticker. People, toys, tools, pets, wood, etc. etc. come off that as well. Then.....I like to keep a minimum of a 10% safety cushion under those max numbers.

Hopefully someone will chime in that owns one. However it has been my experience that what one person loves another may very well hate. An RV is a very tight, confined "personal" space. People deal with that in different ways.
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Old 07-13-2020, 02:48 PM   #7
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Ahh I see, yeah the brochure is weighting it heavier than the stickers on the actual trailers. I still would hope We wouldn't carry that much stuff though but feel definitely well with in specs for the truck.

We are also lucky that most of or pulling will be on mostly flat lands, on the east coast.
One nice thing is you can't carry firewood with you here without jumping through hoops so theres a huge weight not to carry. We would have to buy at camp ground or locally obtain for most of our camping.

What are people putting in the back of their trucks typically that weighs the most? Im thinking a set of chairs and maybe a cooler. But we are used to tent camping and packing light and minimalist so maybe I'm way off on the average weight people are loading up with?

I definitely could see though if you were trying to pull out west or through the mountains where you could run into trouble.
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Old 07-13-2020, 04:03 PM   #8
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It will all depend on where you camp, how long you camp and how you camp etc.

When we camped "minimalist" in tents, then a pop up along with tents, we didn't carry a lot. I learned the hard way after losing a spindle on an axle on a pop up, carrying a screw driver, crescent and hammer (or something like that) that not carrying tools can be very problematic.

What did I carry in the bed of the truck? Wood blocks for leveling/chocking etc., dehumidifier (heavy), ice chest loaded (heavy), tools, compressors, bottle jacks, screened enclosure, bbq grill(s), picnic tables/stands, suitcase with my jeans (don't want them banging up and down on the clothes pole), cordless impact, heavy duty torque wrenches and don't remember what else. Lots of stuff that you actually need given the right circumstance.

I understand that is not minimalist loading but when things happen (and they will) a screwdriver and hammer aren't going to get you out. You need compressors for tire failures, airing up/down etc. Bottle jacks are mandatory for any number of situations. Tools? The issue is taking too many. You can't have enough in an emergency but you can't afford that much weight.

The care/repair/maintenance of an RV on the road is nothing at all like trying to tent camp. They are in fact pretty advanced pieces of equipment that have a lot of complicated parts that require "stuff" to fix. An on road failure can completely incapacitate you and your family, a trip if you don't at least have a minimum of equipment to get you going. Setting up a trailer is not like a tent; it needs to be level hence the blocks. The list is long...and needed to take care of yourself with that big, complicated box behind you in the event it wants to "regurgitate" something.

Your mention of the carrying capacity; depending on your family and how you camp you very well may not reach the max load in the RV but it is again a way to not only keep a safety cushion but help offset all those things in the bed of the truck I just listed that come directly off the payload as well. These are the reasons a 1/2 ton becomes very strapped trying to pull an RV of much size. I tried it, and did it. I didn't carry all that stuff above. I left it at home and paid the price on the road in money and inconvenience. Couldn't take toys for the grandkids. Convenience things - left behind. Tools - can't go. Not a good thing; in fact a bad thing. Just some other stuff to think about.
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Old 07-13-2020, 04:21 PM   #9
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thanks again

I guess it's true that tools probably weigh more than I want to imagine and even more reason to load up and scale in before going somewhere. And bottles jacks are certainly not light.

You bring up a good question though about blocking. How well do the light weight composite block materials hold up for blocking, leveling, jacking and such? I would envision wanting to use more light weight materials than say just wood blocks? I'd definitely be willing to shell out the cash for quality products that do the job well and save weight, however if they totally are worthless than blocks of wood it is i guess.

I'm sure buying a bigger truck is certainly in the future but not for at least 5 years so I am limited to my 1/2 ton. I think my wife regrets not allowing me to get the 3500 i wanted at that point now!
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Old 07-13-2020, 04:26 PM   #10
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I have 3 containers of 10 "lego" plastic blocks. They are useful in the right situation. If you try to level up on a rocky or large gravel site they will be deformed by the rocks. Too much weight in the wrong place and they deform. I never trust them for larger weight applications. When my tongue jack failed one year on the day of departure there was no way I would trust the plastic, honeycomb blocks under the bottle jacks on the tongue...they were wood blocks. You just have to be prepared for who knows what.
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Old 07-13-2020, 04:37 PM   #11
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thats good to know too bad they don't hold up better but good to know we will still carry wood blocks.

I'm glad you said that about the jack though, Ive been thinking they look cheap compared to the ones on my 10,000 pound equipment haulers. This is probably something I was thinking I might upgrade but now will certainly upgrade! Tongue jack failures would be a nightmare! I kinda like the idea of manual cranking anyway, one less thing to break, one less think to short out the battery
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Old 07-13-2020, 04:43 PM   #12
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You will not enjoy cranking 1000+lbs. of RV tongue very long. Remember that you will want to raise the trailer ATTACHED to the truck to facilitate attaching/removing your wdh/sway control.
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Old 07-13-2020, 04:59 PM   #13
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I would hope the gearing on an 8000# A-frame jack wouldn't be too bad. I think the electric jacks that come on it are the ones rated for 2500#? not sure though
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Old 07-13-2020, 05:08 PM   #14
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although realistically I would probably replace with a bulldog 500199 power drive as it has a 3500# cap and has a manual crank as well
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Old 07-13-2020, 05:13 PM   #15
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When mine failed I replaced it with a 5000lb. tongue jack.
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Old 07-13-2020, 05:19 PM   #16
Timmybish
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never any issue after that? do you remember what you bought? thats one area I def would want to improve you use it all the time

that and new tires right away they seem to put bare minimal tires on
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Old 07-13-2020, 05:50 PM   #17
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never any issue after that? do you remember what you bought? thats one area I def would want to improve you use it all the time

that and new tires right away they seem to put bare minimal tires on

I replaced my 3500 jack with a Stromberg Carlson 5000lb. jack. Worked great but it was slower than the original LCI. It was built much better.

I replaced my tires on a 10k gvw trailer with Carlisle Radial HD tires and they were very good. I would suggest something like that. I went with LRE tires, you may want to go with something lighter with that trailer. If you buy new the good thing is that RVIA raised the threshold for the minimum for tire requirements. I still like picking my own weight limit on tires but think that requirement has helped a lot.
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Old 07-13-2020, 06:15 PM   #18
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Ahh I see, yeah the brochure is weighting it heavier than the stickers on the actual trailers. I still would hope We wouldn't carry that much stuff though but feel definitely well with in specs for the truck.

We are also lucky that most of or pulling will be on mostly flat lands, on the east coast.
One nice thing is you can't carry firewood with you here without jumping through hoops so theres a huge weight not to carry. We would have to buy at camp ground or locally obtain for most of our camping.

What are people putting in the back of their trucks typically that weighs the most? Im thinking a set of chairs and maybe a cooler. But we are used to tent camping and packing light and minimalist so maybe I'm way off on the average weight people are loading up with?

I definitely could see though if you were trying to pull out west or through the mountains where you could run into trouble.
This is where folks get sideways with weights. As for "how much stuff" in the truck every pound you put in the truck that wasn't there from the factory takes away from the load capacity. This includes floor mats, step bars, hitch, Berliner, bed cover, extra can of gas, generator, shovel, etc., etc.

The trailer carrying capacity will disappear faster than you think. To start that "empty weight" doesn't include the battery or propane or even the bottles to hold the propane, or a spare tire. Those are dealer installed items.

Then there's the stuff you put in the trailer like food, drinks, water, cooking utensils, pots & pans, plates cups, eating utensils, coffee pot, toaster, towels, bathroom supplies, cleaning supplies, bed linens, blankets, pillows, cloths, shoes, coats, gloves, camping chairs, a mat for outside, a flag, flagpole, some flashlights, games, kids toys, bedroom TV, some books to read, tire chocks, jack cribbing, and the list goes on.

And then there's the cumulative weight that sneaks up on you inevitably. You'll be standing in WalMart or Camping World and see that set of "Lodge Iron" cookware, or the portable ice maker, or gas grill that "would be nice to have for the camper", or the cute door rug, the cute throw with the bears on it with matching pillow, and on and on.

So starting out with no or very little margins on weight capacity will bite you. The " I don't drive in the hills, don't go that far, etc." are false rationalizations to justify your wants while ignoring the need for a proper truck designed to haul the load. You are just as likely to have to make a quick radical maneuver or have a blowout 5 miles from home as you would 500 miles.

In my opinion, if getting the proper truck is 5 years away then match your truck up to more appropriately sized trailer and first. Then when you get a larger truck get the larger trailer.
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Old 07-13-2020, 07:47 PM   #19
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I appreciate the feedback.

However, I am pretty confident in our lifestyle that this trailer weighing in at a mere 5140 pounds empty should be just fine.

I haul a 30 foot enclosed construction trailer weighing in over 8000 pounds with no WD hitch and don't have issues. I feel it back there trust me, but Im not climbing the rockies, and not going down steep grades, and that barely has sway on the highway.

We are not the type to "load up with stuff" to go so I am not going to come anywhere near the 2330 pounds that could go into the trailer.

I feel like some of this is a bit over kill and sounds discouraging to other newbies who might read this. This is discouraging and makes it sound like you can't have a small trailer with a 1/2 ton.

Yes it is important, and yes 1/2 tons are somewhat limited. But still capable.
1800 pound of stuff in and on truck in a 1500
2500 pounds of stuff in and on truck in the 2500 version
My wife and I are under 300, so even if it has a 1000 pounds of tongue weight which it doesn't, that leaves 500 pounds of stuff in the truck.
we would have to fill the camper with 3 x what we would ever carry to even come close to that tongue weight.
If you are mind full of weight then this is perfectly fine.

I agree to take the time and go to a scale and know what you weigh though

And you should be aware that a tire blow out, bad weather, other such events are handled better when the tow vehicle has a larger tow margin

Sure I'd love to drop 90 grand on a 1 ton duel axel fully loaded truck, but thats not whats needed to pull a trailer that will average less than 7500 pounds with a tongue weight of 800 pounds.

If I was out west, or changing significant grades I would agree that a 2500 would be nice.

If I was going to spend serious cash this would be a class A 42 foot diesel pusher conversation and a brand new jeep tow behind!
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Old 07-13-2020, 08:45 PM   #20
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I appreciate the feedback.

However, I am pretty confident in our lifestyle that this trailer weighing in at a mere 5140 pounds empty should be just fine.

I haul a 30 foot enclosed construction trailer weighing in over 8000 pounds with no WD hitch and don't have issues. I feel it back there trust me, but Im not climbing the rockies, and not going down steep grades, and that barely has sway on the highway.

We are not the type to "load up with stuff" to go so I am not going to come anywhere near the 2330 pounds that could go into the trailer.

I feel like some of this is a bit over kill and sounds discouraging to other newbies who might read this. This is discouraging and makes it sound like you can't have a small trailer with a 1/2 ton.

Yes it is important, and yes 1/2 tons are somewhat limited. But still capable.
1800 pound of stuff in and on truck in a 1500
2500 pounds of stuff in and on truck in the 2500 version
My wife and I are under 300, so even if it has a 1000 pounds of tongue weight which it doesn't, that leaves 500 pounds of stuff in the truck.
we would have to fill the camper with 3 x what we would ever carry to even come close to that tongue weight.
If you are mind full of weight then this is perfectly fine.

I agree to take the time and go to a scale and know what you weigh though

And you should be aware that a tire blow out, bad weather, other such events are handled better when the tow vehicle has a larger tow margin

Sure I'd love to drop 90 grand on a 1 ton duel axel fully loaded truck, but thats not whats needed to pull a trailer that will average less than 7500 pounds with a tongue weight of 800 pounds.

If I was out west, or changing significant grades I would agree that a 2500 would be nice.

If I was going to spend serious cash this would be a class A 42 foot diesel pusher conversation and a brand new jeep tow behind!
WOW !!!

Three posts ago you were talking about buying heavier jacks because the ones on the trailer "seem kind of weak" and a larger hand crank tongue jack that's heavy enough to lift the front of the trailer "easily"... Then the comments about wood vs lightweight chocks/blocks. Every pound added in those "upgrades" is a pound more the truck has to pull and stop.

As a "novice RV'er" you make exactly the same comments every other "novice RV'er" makes.... I/we will NEVER use that much cargo capacity. We're "minimalists" when it comes to camping, we'll always tow well under the cargo capacity. The trailer brochure says the tongue weighs 760, so the most we'll ever see is 800 pounds.

Trust me when I say that if you read through the "first posts from new members who do not yet own an RV" and then read their posts after owning an RV for two or three years, you'll find that "they come to the same realization" that you're seeing posted in comments about what you can expect as your "trailer use and experience grows through the years"...

You "might take that first trip" with 300 pounds of cargo, no water and only one battery, but that won't last long. After the first trip with no snacks, no spices to cook with, only 1 blanket and an unexpected cold snap, the first dirty bathroom in a rest area and a "perfectly clean toilet in our own trailer with all the privacy we could ask for" then things will change and you'll start carrying more supplies....

Then, after the first flat tire and no air or only 30 PSI in the spare, you'll add a compressor, a jack, a lug wrench to the mix...

Now, park that new trailer in a campground where the water faucet is 28' from trailer connector and you've only got a 25' hose or the electrical connector is 26' and your shore power cord is 24'... Let's not forget the sewer hose. You've got two 10' sewer hoses and connected they'll stretch 20', but the sewer connection at the campsite is 25' and shared by two sites, so you also need a "Y" connector or you can't use your full hookups...

The list goes on and on.... I don't know of anyone who has had a trailer longer than one camping season that isn't well over 1000 pounds of cargo when they leave for a camping trip....

Oh, that doesn't include the weight distribution hitch, the generator, the gas can for the generator, the kayaks, bicycles, lawn chairs, mat for under the awning, extra towels for the beach or any host of other things that RV'ers toss in to make their camping trips "more than the bare essentials"....

Don't get caught up in the "we'll never" I can't name one new member who said that before they bought their trailer who still says it after a year of ownership and use.
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