Fifth Wheel Hitch Came Apart

[vampress_me]

Originally Posted by Javi

I also have a 25k Companion and the design with the jaws makes it less likely but still possible. I backed under the pin box on a steep side to side angle and the jaws shut. I almost put the pin in but it didn't feel right so I went to the back and looked. Pin was on top of the jaws..
Opened the jaws, pulled out from under the pin box and fiddled with the landing gear to get the trailer closer to level with the truck.
Which is a challenge with the hydraulic level up system because you have no individual control over the landing gear. The auto level will raise or lower the jacks to level the trailer side to side but only if you are using the rear jacks too.

So are, are you saying what I was talking about - that you had the pin completely above the jaws? Because, with the jaws closed on ours, the diameter of the “hole” in the jaws is a little over 2” (can’t remember exactly right now) and the diameter of the pin part that sits in there is about a 1/16” of an inch less. So, if the bottom “nubbin” of the pin was in the jaws, there should be no way the jaws close enough to put the locking pin through the handle and frame.

Otherwise, I’m confused by what you are saying…which is a very good possibility since we just got home with the camper after dropping our DD off at college in WY.

[Javi]

Originally Posted by vampress_me

So are, are you saying what I was talking about - that you had the pin completely above the jaws? Because, with the jaws closed on ours, the diameter of the “hole” in the jaws is a little over 2” (can’t remember exactly right now) and the diameter of the pin part that sits in there is about a 1/16” of an inch less. So, if the bottom “nubbin” of the pin was in the jaws, there should be no way the jaws close enough to put the locking pin through the handle and frame.

Otherwise, I’m confused by what you are saying…which is a very good possibility since we just got home with the camper after dropping our DD off at college in WY.

Yes the pin caught enough of the jaws to close them and road up on top but with the angle of the hitch and pin plate it didn't look like it was high.
I just didn't feel good about it and went and looked.
I'd have caught it with my pull test anyway but I been doing this for nearly 50 years.

Do not get in the habit of thinking that every thing is good just because you can put the pin in the handle, because it ain't always.

[notanlines]

After having the tech at the hitch company explain it to me, in detail, two complete times, I still cannot explain it to you. We were backed in to a spot in Wisconsin Dells that was relatively unlevel, left to right. After I hooked up, put the safety pin in the handle, I looked at the hitch and it appeared to have about a quarter of an inch space between the king pin plate and the head.
I did my pull test, no problem. When I pulled out I was at an angle a little sharper than usual and BANG, the king pin was instead laying on top of the rails of the slider, hence preventing the RV from damaging the sides of the truck, but the PIN BOX caught on the tail gate. "Hello Geico? This is Jim again!"
$2500 later and a new tail gate I'm a lot smarter. I just can't explain to you how it happened mechanically.

[JRTJH]

The same type situation can occur with the CURT A16 or A20 hitch.

The locking jaws are about 3/4" thick, so it's "hard but not impossible" in some off slope situations, for the trailer pin to actually sit above the jaws and for them to "trigger to locked" even though the trailer pin flange is not below the jaws. On my hitch, when (if) that happens, the jaws will close but the locking arm will not fully move rearward. I don't know if that's supposed to be a "signal that it's not locked" or not, but it's happened to me once in a national park where we were camped in a "no campground area" (dispersed camping)...

I have a piece of red reflective tape on the trailer pin flange. That makes it easier to check the position (above/below the jaws) in the shadows when hitching up. I always visually check the flange position before closing the tail gate while plugging in the electrical cables (umbilical and camera). Then lift the landing gear an inch or so and do a pull test and recheck the flange position before closing the tail gate.

I can see where it's possible to "high hitch" and have the jaws close (if they trigger) and the jaws be closed below the flange. IMO, it's always a good idea to check the actual flange position, even using a flashlight if it's hard to see in the shadows on a bright day....

"Stuff happens" even when we think it won't.... Always a good idea to check, double check and cross check.... Even then, it can still happen... That's the reason I have the red reflective tape on the pin flange.....

[vampress_me]

Originally Posted by Javi

Do not get in the habit of thinking that every thing is good just because you can put the pin in the handle, because it ain't always.

Originally Posted by JRTJH

I have a piece of red reflective tape on the trailer pin flange. That makes it easier to check the position (above/below the jaws) in the shadows when hitching up. I always visually check the flange position before closing the tail gate while plugging in the electrical cables (umbilical and camera). Then lift the landing gear an inch or so and do a pull test and recheck the flange position before closing the tail gate.

I can see where it's possible to "high hitch" and have the jaws close (if they trigger) and the jaws be closed below the flange. IMO, it's always a good idea to check the actual flange position, even using a flashlight if it's hard to see in the shadows on a bright day....

"Stuff happens" even when we think it won't.... Always a good idea to check, double check and cross check.... Even then, it can still happen... That's the reason I have the red reflective tape on the pin flange.....

Javi, thank you for explaining. And, I do not trust the handle only, I check (and double check) visually by looking at the pin in the jaws, and then do a pull test. And, then look again like John says before we ever move. I’m just too dang anal and don’t want to wreck my truck or camper, or hurt someone if something would happen on the road.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by vampress_me

Javi, thank you for explaining. And, I do not trust the handle only, I check (and double check) visually by looking at the pin in the jaws, and then do a pull test. And, then look again like John says before we ever move. I’m just too dang anal and don’t want to wreck my truck or camper, or hurt someone if something would happen on the road.

The concern about hurting someone else is my biggest fear. If I would happen to damage the trailer or my truck, it's "just money", sure I'd be upset, but I could "get over it"....

On the other hand, I have to look at my "ugly mug" in the mirror every morning... Knowing I hurt someone else, an innocent person who just happened to be "in my way"... Well, I'm not so sure that my "mornings in the mirror" would ever be the same..... So, my goal is to make it through my entire life with the ability to smile at the "guy in the mirror".... YMMV

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

The concern about hurting someone else is my biggest fear. If I would happen to damage the trailer or my truck, it's "just money", sure I'd be upset, but I could "get over it"....

On the other hand, I have to look at my "ugly mug" in the mirror every morning... Knowing I hurt someone else, an innocent person who just happened to be "in my way"... Well, I'm not so sure that my "mornings in the mirror" would ever be the same..... So, my goal is to make it through my entire life with the ability to smile at the "guy in the mirror".... YMMV

Your thoughts are spot on. I "love" that guy in the mirror most of the time but sometimes he disappoints me. Never in a serious manner as you mention. I evaluate "me" every day. What's so sad is that the current generations have completely lost that "self check" mode to let you know where you stand. Wouldn't have any idea what to do with it and have no benchmark to measure themselves after being raised in a protected "safe place" world - clueless and sad......and the rest of us deal with that in many ways every day.

[fauchx]

Back to OP topic; I keep thinking of triple tow, with Jeep and motorcycle in trailer. That’s a pretty good weight when considering the loading and unloading of the pin weight in a porpoising situation. Static tongue weight of second trailer is multiplied in the ‘porpoise-whip’. I can see how, a lot of upward force could be exerted at truck hitch.

[notanlines]

Fauchx, in theory that might work, but in reality, with the bike, Jeep and trailer weighing about 5K, that makes for a 500 pound tongue weight at the rear of the RV. But just not enough to make much of a porpoising problem.

[MikeRP]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

The same type situation can occur with the CURT A16 or A20 hitch.


I have a piece of red reflective tape on the trailer pin flange. That makes it easier to check the position (above/below the jaws) in the shadows when hitching up. I always visually check the flange position before closing the tail gate while plugging in the electrical cables (umbilical and camera). Then lift the landing gear an inch or so and do a pull test and recheck the flange position before closing the tail gate.

"Stuff happens" even when we think it won't.... Always a good idea to check, double check and cross check.... Even then, it can still happen... That's the reason I have the red reflective tape on the pin flange.....

I had this happen once with my B&W slider. It was stupid.

But I use orange or red electrical tape on the bottom flange of the pin box also!

That little step caught the problem for me and it was ridiculous it even happened but it did. I was able to recognize my mistake right away.

I now have a 8 ft bed truck and I’m using the Anderson hitch. My Curt Gooseball has a rather floppy unlock pin. I’m kinda worried about it and I place a piece of that electrical tape over it to make sure it doesn’t come up, then I set the hitch. Could this have been the problem where the goose released?

Does anyone else have a Curt gooseball?

[Todd727]

Ok, so let's say the pins were broken. You still need a lifting force on the spring handles to release the saddle. Those pins do nothing more than hold those spring handles down. There is almost zero force on them.

So, he either missed the pin (high hitch), or he didn't get the saddle latched down before he put the pins in. The only way I see that second scenario is that he had the pins in before he sat the saddle down. I'm going to choose to dismiss his scenario until there is more evidence/proof of this happening in the manner he stated to you.