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Old 08-12-2017, 10:21 AM   #1
SCGatl
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No Battery Power

Hi again, another issue. When I bought my 175LHS, I picked it up and took it directly to storage. Now I have it in my driveway to flush the water system etc., and everything seems to work (except the fridge, propane only?) while connected to house power.

Once disconnected from shore power, I get nothing - no lights, no pump, nada. So I went out and bought a brand new Duracell deep cycle battery, installed it and reconnected to shore power for a few hours. Same thing - disconnect power from house, no lights or water pump.

While plugged in, I'm getting 12.5v at the battery, and anywhere from 12.5v - 13.6v at each of the contact points next to each DC fuse.

When unplugged, nothing at all on the contacts. Is there a hidden switch or something simple that will make me feel happy and dumb at the same time?

Thanks all,
Steve
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Old 08-12-2017, 10:27 AM   #2
Johnny's Journey
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Did you test the reverse polity fuses that protect against accidental crossing of the battery cables.
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Old 08-12-2017, 10:42 AM   #3
SCGatl
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Hi Johnny - that was it. I checked them all visually, but used an ohm meter to be sure, and sho'nuff, that one is wide open. BTW the short queen mattress from Zinus (10" Spring) is very comfortable...I will sleep like a baby at hunt camp.
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Old 08-12-2017, 10:48 AM   #4
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Excellent
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Old 08-13-2017, 07:59 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCGatl View Post
used an ohm meter to be sure
Steve why did this test yield a different conclusion versus taking the voltage reading off the fuses ? Clue "12.5v - 13.6v"
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Old 08-13-2017, 08:04 AM   #6
KennyDean
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Hello I am having the same problem after feeling my water tank only the microwave tv and sockets work nothing else. Where do I find the reverse fuse at. Newbie thank you
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Old 08-13-2017, 08:37 AM   #7
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Where do I find the reverse fuse at.
Inside of one of these. http://www.rvpartscountry.com/-Power...y_p_27303.html
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Old 08-13-2017, 08:56 AM   #8
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Thank you ok what am I looking for? Buddy I am a wounded vet with a brain injury sorry to ask you these types of questions
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Old 08-13-2017, 09:07 AM   #9
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No worries. Push on the door and when opened you'll see automotive type fuses. Look for the higher amp fuses that should say 40. You'll also see next to it what it protects.
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Old 08-14-2017, 04:37 AM   #10
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Johnny, the test point must have been before the fuse, where the inverter is powering the supply side. Assuming I didn't see the the load side.

Kenny, the fuses are automotive style - you can just pull them out with your fingers. If you hold them up to a window or light, you should see if the two sides are connected with a thin wire in the middle. If it is open, not connected, the fuse has blown.
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Old 08-14-2017, 04:46 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCGatl View Post
Johnny, the test point must have been before the fuse, where the inverter is powering the supply side. Assuming I didn't see the the load side.

Kenny, the fuses are automotive style - you can just pull them out with your fingers. If you hold them up to a window or light, you should see if the two sides are connected with a thin wire in the middle. If it is open, not connected, the fuse has blown.
I'm sure you meant CONVERTER, inverters turn 12VDC into 120VAC and converters turn 120VAC into 12VDC. When plugged into shore power the converter supply's 12VDC power to the coach and charges the battery(s).
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Old 08-14-2017, 05:42 AM   #12
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You are correct Chuck, thanks for clarifying.
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Old 08-14-2017, 07:51 AM   #13
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test point must have been before the fuse...... Assuming I didn't see the the load side.
Right there, you said you had a voltage reading at both ends of each fuse on post 1 and that's where the confusion came in. Based on how you wrote your question I have to assume you had the trailer on shore power and the battery/ies connected. This is will give anyone a reading on the line side and the load side of the fuse but it was from 2 different sources because the fuse was blown. Conclusion ? Perform test with only one power source while doing test for voltage.
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Old 08-14-2017, 08:59 AM   #14
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I checked on the pins to the right of the fuses with shore power connected, with the negative meter probe on chassis ground. Hope the pic appears.
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Old 08-14-2017, 12:58 PM   #15
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Awesome. Does this mean both sides of the fuse were or were not tested ? Sorry no pic came thru and that's OK.
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Old 08-14-2017, 01:36 PM   #16
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Hi Johnny - correct, only one side of the fuse was tested with power. There was nothing I could easily see to get a probe onto for the other side, which I assume was the load side.
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Old 08-14-2017, 02:48 PM   #17
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OK cool. The important thing is it's fixed now and your ready to enjoy again.
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Old 08-22-2017, 07:40 AM   #18
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Fuse blown again

OK, so after replacing the 15A fuse and all being well, I went out this morning and the fuse was blown again. I have not touched the battery - I left the trailer disconnected from shore power for a few days just to see how well my new batter would hold a charge.

I had also connected my Honda eu2000 genny to test it out, and once I realized there was an On-Off lever on the genny gas cap for venting, it handled the AC unit just fine. (thru the wall unit)

What possible causes are there of this fuse blowing?

Thanks All!
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Old 08-22-2017, 07:51 AM   #19
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You need to determine what is on that 15A circuit. Don't trust the labels, just pull the fuse and start turning everything 12V on and see what doesn't work. That included the water heater on LP, the furnace and refer on LP. Often overlooked is the LP detector.
Once you know what's on that circuit you can start turning things back on with the fuse in. I use a tool like this:
https://m.harborfreight.com/30-amp-a...ter-67724.html
As it will display load as you turn stuff on. Great for identifying what component is causing the issue. If the LP detector is on that circuit, you can cut the power wire before starting, and add it last. Had a new unit a few months ago that had the LP detector have an internal short.
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Old 08-22-2017, 08:30 AM   #20
SCGatl
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Thanks, I will pick up one of those meters. I have not ran the hot water heater nor the fridge as of yet. The LP detector is on that circuit - green light is on when I have DC power. So far i know the inside lights (All LED), water pump, tank/battery level panel are on that circuit. But, only the tank/battery level panel and the Atwood LP detector would have been on when the fuse blew. Heading out of town for a few days, so will check over the weekend.
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