New 5th wheel on the way.... - Page 4

**JRTJH** · 02-01-2021, 07:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blueswede

Payload is 3000 lbs. According to the Ford specs, towing capacity is 15,700.

Having a 3000 pound payload if your payload is 2800 pounds is good. On the other hand, having a 3000 pound payload if your payload is 3200 pounds, not so good.

You "might be OK" and the only way to know for sure is to weigh your rig. If your "numbers are under the max in all categories" you're golden... If not, as long as you "know the situation" you can make reasonable solutions to correct them... If you don't know, like the ostrich with its head in the sand, you'll be "fat dumb and happy" .... Until you're not.....

Whether you post the results or keep them private, as long as YOU are aware of what you're doing and know your rig's weights, what the rest of us know about your rig, is pretty much irrelevant.

Big 417 · 02-01-2021, 08:29 AM

Scary stuff eh, lol. I agree with the rest of the comments, there's no such thing as "traveling light". But you can be cognizant of how you load your trailer. Distribution of the weight helps a lot to keep the pin lighter. Just don't put all your soup cans in the rear of the trailer, now you have the other issue of the bumper rubbing the pavement over every whoop dee woo in the road.

Yeah you can cheat a few lbs here and there, and you'll be fine. It's what happens after the accident happens, if it happens thats the scary part.

More important, keep the tires aired up and fresh, that goes for your tow vehicle also. The axles they put under trailers are just enough these days.

I pull a 43', #19000 triple axle toy hauler. Pulls like a dream, but I know if something should fail, it's gonna be a yard sale down the highway lol

jimborokz · 02-06-2021, 09:25 AM

I have that truck in diesel and a Montana that grosses out at 16600. My truck is a couple years newer so may have a higher payload but I'm thinking you may be OK. Only way to tell is hook up the trailer and head to the scales. I have the B&W slider and it weighs in at 275#. If I had a do over I would seriously consider the Anderson hitch.

Last fall when coming south I hit the scales. I was loaded up with everything we need for the winter plus stuff we were bringing down to our daughters. In other words way more than we would usually carry and likely more than we will ever carry again. We were about 200# over on GCVW and something like 80# over on the pin.

All that said, I've started looking for a suitable dully but the pickin's are slim these days. I'm hoping once the economy gets back up to full speed I'll find one that I like.

Blueswede · 03-04-2021, 05:08 AM

So after lots of thinking and conversations with my wife, we have decided to move up to a DRW truck. My biggest question is on my 2011, I have 20” tires so the bed sits up fairly high. All of the F350 duallys that I have looked at have 17” tires so obviously the truck sits lower. Do I need to be concerned about how the Cougar will sit and not be level? I don’t have the luxury of being able to try the trailer out before I buy the truck.
I can’t for the life of me understand the smaller tires on a 1 ton truck...

wiredgeorge · 03-04-2021, 05:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blueswede

So after lots of thinking and conversations with my wife, we have decided to move up to a DRW truck. My biggest question is on my 2011, I have 20” tires so the bed sits up fairly high. All of the F350 duallys that I have looked at have 17” tires so obviously the truck sits lower. Do I need to be concerned about how the Cougar will sit and not be level? I don’t have the luxury of being able to try the trailer out before I buy the truck.
I can’t for the life of me understand the smaller tires on a 1 ton truck...

Can't speak to the different tire sizes but I use an Anderson Ultimate hitch and it adjusts several inches up/down and thus leveling my camper isn't much of an issue. I have found that the hitch set where the camper is slightly tilted up gives a much smoother ride with no bucking. At level, there is a tiny amount of bucking. Not sure why that is but if level is what you want, the Anderson Ultimate is a good answer.

Javi · 03-04-2021, 05:55 AM

2021 Open tailgate to Ground - F-350 DRW (in)

2WD 35.3"

4WD 36.5"

This information is readily available for the 2011 as well..

Add the hitch height to this number and measure the height of the pin box plate to the ground when the trailer is level..

The height of the bed plus the height of the hitch as installed should equal the height of the pin box... or slightly more to compensate for the weight of the trailer

JJaxon · 03-04-2021, 06:20 AM

Dont think of "obvious". I had a 2019 Ram 3500 single rear wheel, with 20" tires, traded to 2020 Ram dually, 18" tires. Trade day sitting side by side, there was 1/4" difference at the tailgate height. So, dont guess, have your sales people measure it if you cant to see true height. It wont squat as much as a 10 year old truck.

jimborokz · 03-04-2021, 07:16 AM

My last truck had 20" wheels and the new one has 18".
The 20's are lower profile and lower load capacity. In my case the overall tire size was the same.
Only way to tell is hook up the camper and check it out. There would only be a slight difference and you should be able to dial it in with just hitch adjustment if needed. The dully is probably going to squat less also so that will factor in.
Wise move though.

**sourdough** · 03-04-2021, 07:44 AM

Your height won't change much. A 20" tire is a lower profile (shorter sidewall) vs the 18 which will have a taller sidewall equaling just about the same overall diameter.

**JRTJH** · 03-04-2021, 07:45 AM

As Jim just posted, the tire profile makes up much (or in some situations, all) of the difference in height.

The tire size also includes the "profile" of the tire. As an example, a 275/75R17 tire has a "profile height" of 75% of 275mm. A 275/70R18 has a "profile height" of 70% of 275mm and a 275/65R20 has a "profile height" of 65% of 275mm. 275mm is 10.83". So, 75% of 10.83 is 8.12", 70% is 7.59 and 65% is 7.04.

That means, in those three examples the following:

The 275/75R17 height is: 8.12x2=17= 33.24
The 275/70R18 height is: 7.59x2+18= 33.18
The 275/65R20 height is: 7.04x2+20= 34.08

As you can see, the 17 and 18 inch wheels are "virtually" the same height and the 20" tire is less than 1" taller than the 17 or the 18 inch wheel/tire assembly.

As Javi stated, use the truck specifications chart, take the "bed height" and add the hitch height and that will give you the height of the "pin plate". Then measure the level trailer "ground to pin height" and that should tell you how much "hitch or pinbox adjustment" you'll need to keep the trailer "at the level".

Typically, there's very little difference between the "bed height" of most trucks in any given brand (on standard build trucks). When you get to "specialty packages" like some off road packages, may have a larger "spring/axle block" that produces an additional lift in the truck, but those are "specialty trucks" and usually not the options selected by people using a truck to tow an RV.

jimborokz · 03-04-2021, 08:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

As Jim just posted, the tire profile makes up much (or in some situations, all) of the difference in height.

The tire size also includes the "profile" of the tire. As an example, a 275/75R17 tire has a "profile height" of 75% of 275mm. A 275/70R18 has a "profile height" of 70% of 275mm and a 275/65R20 has a "profile height" of 65% of 275mm. 275mm is 10.83". So, 75% of 10.83 is 8.12", 70% is 7.59 and 65% is 7.04.

That means, in those three examples the following:

The 275/75R17 height is: 8.12x2=17= 33.24
The 275/70R18 height is: 7.59x2+18= 33.18
The 275/65R20 height is: 7.04x2+20= 34.08

As you can see, the 17 and 18 inch wheels are "virtually" the same height and the 20" tire is less than 1" taller than the 17 or the 18 inch wheel/tire assembly.

As Javi stated, use the truck specifications chart, take the "bed height" and add the hitch height and that will give you the height of the "pin plate". Then measure the level trailer "ground to pin height" and that should tell you how much "hitch or pinbox adjustment" you'll need to keep the trailer "at the level".

Typically, there's very little difference between the "bed height" of most trucks in any given brand (on standard build trucks). When you get to "specialty packages" like some off road packages, may have a larger "spring/axle block" that produces an additional lift in the truck, but those are "specialty trucks" and usually not the options selected by people using a truck to tow an RV.

Great calculations, I like it. Just remember those are diameters. The difference will be in the radius (center of axle to ground) so less than 1/2" from 18" to 20".
Also remember the truck will squat maybe an inch or when hitched up. I would suggest hooking up and park on a level spot and measure the front and back of camper. then you know exactly what you need to move if anything.

**JRTJH** · 03-04-2021, 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimborokz

Great calculations, I like it. Just remember those are diameters. The difference will be in the radius (center of axle to ground) so less than 1/2" from 18" to 20".
Also remember the truck will squat maybe an inch or when hitched up. I would suggest hooking up and park on a level spot and measure the front and back of camper. then you know exactly what you need to move if anything.

Every rig has to be "individually fine tuned" but overall, most trucks are fairly close to the same "bed height". There's a reason all the truck manufacturers compete "against each other" but at the same time, use "almost identical specifications for comparable trucks.

I don't think you'll find "a hill of beans" difference between your current truck and the new one, regardless of "wheel diameter"... Now, if you ordered the "jacked up, oil burner" all best are off LOL

Alpine · 03-04-2021, 09:13 AM

I still find it interesting of the folks that purchase a luxury rv and then state they are not going to put anything in it! Isn't the purpose of upgrading or purchashing a larger rv is so you can have the nicer things with you?

A nicer, larger kitchen but I'm not going to put anything in the drawers or cupboards. Look at the size of this closet in the bedroom, but I'm going to leave it empty! Look at the room in the bathroom cabinets, we are going to leave them empty too! Feast your eyes on the size of the storage in the front basement area, empty too, etc, etc, etc............

rhagfo · 03-04-2021, 03:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blueswede

So after lots of thinking and conversations with my wife, we have decided to move up to a DRW truck. My biggest question is on my 2011, I have 20” tires so the bed sits up fairly high. All of the F350 duallys that I have looked at have 17” tires so obviously the truck sits lower. Do I need to be concerned about how the Cougar will sit and not be level? I don’t have the luxury of being able to try the trailer out before I buy the truck.
I can’t for the life of me understand the smaller tires on a 1 ton truck...

Well good choice on the DRW, don't limit your search to Ford, the other two make great DRW units also. Our 2016 Ram Laramie 3500 DRW has a payload sticker of 5,411#, and a tow rating over 25,000# with 3.73's.

Looking at your 5er's specs, good luck keeping within the GVWR of the trailer! It only has a payload of 2,229#, not a lot in a 40' 5er.
Most 5er's run at about 22% to 23% pin weight.

Shipping Weight 11,751 lb.
Carrying Capacity 2,229 lb.
Hitch 1,980 lb.
GVWR 13,980 lb.
Length 39' 4"

Estimated wet pin weight 3,075# at 22%.

Food for thought our 32' 5er has a 2,540# payload, and we are a bit over that in 32' with a small basement. Your best choice is a DRW, ours is a daily driver and we have very few issues.

jasin1 · 03-04-2021, 05:31 PM

My new ram 3500 has the factory air suspension...it really turned out to be a nice option....it has an alternate trailer height setting that puts the truck and trailer at a optimum angle...it’s always perfect and leveled.

Blueswede · 03-05-2021, 05:41 AM

I’m also looking at a 2011 Dodge Ram Laramie DRW with the Cummins diesel. But I can’t seem to find the towing capacity anywhere. Can anyone here shed some light on that? Much appreciated....

Javi · 03-05-2021, 06:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blueswede

I’m also looking at a 2011 Dodge Ram Laramie DRW with the Cummins diesel. But I can’t seem to find the towing capacity anywhere. Can anyone here shed some light on that? Much appreciated....

http://www.rambodybuilder.com/2011/d...ammlup3500.pdf

rhagfo · 03-05-2021, 06:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blueswede

I’m also looking at a 2011 Dodge Ram Laramie DRW with the Cummins diesel. But I can’t seem to find the towing capacity anywhere. Can anyone here shed some light on that? Much appreciated....

Well GVWR will be 12,300#. If you have the VIN you can get the towing and Payload capacity on this WEB site.

https://www.ramtrucks.com/towing/towing-guide.html

In the screen click on "Look Up My Vehicle" a screen will pop up and insert the vehicles VIN. It will give that vehicles Payload and tow rating.

Blueswede · 03-05-2021, 06:39 AM

So I'm a bit surprised that the tow capacity for the Dodge is only 18K. I'm also looking at a 2014 Ford F-450 dually. The towing capacity for it is 26K. And it already has a Hensley 5th wheel hitch installed. Mileage is a bit higher than the Dodge, but if I can get what I want in a trade for my F350, I think its a good option. Anyone know if the Dodge comes ready to accept a puck system hitch? That would certainly be a consideration......

rhagfo · 03-05-2021, 08:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blueswede

So I'm a bit surprised that the tow capacity for the Dodge is only 18K. I'm also looking at a 2014 Ford F-450 dually. The towing capacity for it is 26K. And it already has a Hensley 5th wheel hitch installed. Mileage is a bit higher than the Dodge, but if I can get what I want in a trade for my F350, I think its a good option. Anyone know if the Dodge comes ready to accept a puck system hitch? That would certainly be a consideration......

Keep in mind that Ram upped their frames and engines in 2013 and towing took a big leap! DRW GVWR 14,000# much higher tow ratings. Our 2016 towing capacity is over 25,000# with 3.73’s.

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