2015 Bullet Supreme 26RBPR mods - Page 9

WNY Bullet · 08-12-2019, 01:41 AM

It's been awhile since I modified anything on our trailer...

1) Installed a MICTUNING RV Keyless Entry Door Lock
Our latch was never right, we needed to really slam the door ignorer for the latch to work. Now if we go for a walk, we don't need to bring our keys with us!

2) Installed a Stromberg Carlson Jet-30 Hitching Post
Tired of everything laying on the ground

3) Installed Mopeka LP Tank Check Tank Halos
The small riser clips kept falling off every time I would get the tanks filled.

WNY Bullet · 08-13-2019, 02:52 AM

Here are some images from the latest mods. The gasket material behind the door lock will be replaced with black material once it arrives. The opening cut in the door was larger than the door latch, so I had to use the gasket to cover the exposed opening. I will try to cut the black gasket a little smoother than the job I did on the red material.

mwemaxxowner · 08-13-2019, 07:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WNY Bullet

Installed a Wacko Products Dometic RV A/C Silencer Kit tonight and what a difference. My DW couldn't stand when the AC kicked in, she complained that it was too loud! This kit dropped the db down to a much lower level and uses a much better filter too!

Doesn't this remove the ability to open the diverter and use the "quick chill" feature?

WNY Bullet · 08-13-2019, 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mwemaxxowner

Doesn't this remove the ability to open the diverter and use the "quick chill" feature?

Yes it does, but we never used that feature. Having the DW happy was much more of a priority than the dump feature.

WNY Bullet · 08-13-2019, 11:47 AM

Black rubber material came in today, so I changed it out. It blends in much better!

mwemaxxowner · 08-13-2019, 12:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WNY Bullet

Yes it does, but we never used that feature. Having the DW happy was much more of a priority than the dump feature. [emoji38]

Certainly. Haha. It's not worth that to me then, I wish it still allowed that feature. We find the quick chill absolutely invaluable when we've just arrived and set up on a hot summer day. The AC is very loud though.

**JRTJH** · 08-13-2019, 12:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mwemaxxowner

Certainly. Haha. It's not worth that to me then, I wish it still allowed that feature. We find the quick chill absolutely invaluable when we've just arrived and set up on a hot summer day. The AC is very loud though.

The way the silencer kit works is to "bend" the incoming air to muffle the noise. What they do is close off the "dump feature" so all the air goes through the ceiling ducting and move the warm air inlet from the front (so it flows straight up into the A/C) and route the incoming air to where the dump feature used to be. That way, the air comes into the "silencer kit", makes a sharp bend, flows through the plastic kit body, makes another sharp bend and enters the A/C warm air box. Those two bends are the 'secret" to how the silencer kit muffles the "rushing air sound".

Actually, you can do pretty much the same thing and keep your dump feature by building a box located from the front half of the A/C ceiling shroud that is located forward with inlets on the sides or the bottom of that box. As long as the incoming air "bends two (or more times) as it enters the warm air return on the rooftop unit, it'll make the A/C a bit less noisy.

I've played around with a "home built mockup" that works, but looks far too "cheesey" to put on my ceiling. I got the idea from the "quiet cool" system currently used in high end fifth wheels. They route the incoming air from the sides of the coach ceiling and bend it two or three times on the way to the rooftop warm air box. My mockup only bends the air 2 times, but it's quite a bit quieter than the OEM ceiling shroud.

mwemaxxowner · 08-13-2019, 12:51 PM

I've seen a few diy baffle boxes that looked okay, that did allow for use of the diverter one way or another.

I get how it works, I just wonder if they could have engineered it to still provide a way to open the quick chill pathway up. Obviously for many the noise reduction is more important, but I don't think so for me.

ajk170 · 08-14-2019, 07:43 PM

WNY Bullet- Wow! You've done a lot to your rig and I imagine it's a great rig as a result! I've often considered replacing my entry latch on my '15 Outback for one like you have but on other forums I've read a lot of dissatisfied people on their extended reviews (12-18months) of these things failing. While the keys work, the electronics do not. What brand did you go with?

The two upgrades we did this year was 1)added the sleep number bed (queen) (we have a king at the house but it's not for everyone) and the Torklift Glowstep (4 step) from etrailer. The steps were super simple to install as a retrofit and we love them. The in-laws have the MoreRyde steps in their 2018 Alpine and I thought I wonted that before I found these (I think somebody on this forum pointed out the Torklift). I like that they are adjustable, they connect to the ground, I can still get into my coach if the guy next to me in the storage lot parks too close, they don't dirty the interior, and they eliminate the spring-board effect of the OEM stairs. Lastly, I've tripped and stumbled more times than I like to admit on my in-laws stairs because I always step off to the side of the stairs when exiting their coach and the sidewalls on those MorRyde are rather large opposed to the Torklift. I initially ordered the three step (a little less expensive) but then Etrailer contacted me and wanted to confirm the dimensions and recommended the 4 step because to purchase an additional step is almost twice the cost of the paying the up-charge on the 4-step. Plus, you can remove the steps in the Torklift to adjust the height. I'm glad I took their advice because on our coach, the 4 step is perfect in most situations and if it's a little too big, the feet also adjust to compensate. Can't say enough good things about those stairs. Also, they are really light too and you can put either their lock or any lock on the stairs to keep honest people honest! (No I don't get compensated to say all this about their steps, but you'd think I do.)

ajk170 · 08-14-2019, 08:18 PM

Mike- I like the power cable and chain hanger that you installed and I see that you use a cover over your power landing leg. The one simple mod that I did to protect my landing leg was as a result of water penetration and destroying the switch that activated the landing leg while we were coming home from the Smokey Mountains causing us to stop at the CW near Ashville, NC - I think it was near there, and have them quote me $450 and 5 hours wait to have it done right there, which I politely declined. Ended up taking it apart once we got it home, researched it a little bit and bought a $8 dollar switch and fixed it myself using a lot of waterproof silicone in the process.

However, my insurance policy is an inverted 5 gallon bucket from HD with a 3" hole cut in its lid (has a rubber seal). The inverted bucket covers the landing leg's head by inverting it over the landing leg and snapping the bucket onto its lid (the landing leg itself goes through the 3" hole) thus creating a weather proof environment for the main assembly of the landing leg (ie the electric motor). Of course, I have to remove the bucket every time I need to operate the landing leg but I would have to remove a cover as well. The clip that you show holding your power cord and chains could work in my set-up but maybe hard to access and hang up and clip. Instead I stuff my cable i and chains inside the LP cover - the cahins somtimes call down but the power cord stays put.

The other added benefit of the bucket is it now serves as a place to put a sticker/decals from every place we visit (big National Park/Site/Battlefield/forrest people). The downside, there is a finite amount of space on the bucket so some decals are starting to get covered up!

WNY Bullet · 08-15-2019, 02:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ajk170

WNY Bullet- Wow! You've done a lot to your rig and I imagine it's a great rig as a result! I've often considered replacing my entry latch on my '15 Outback for one like you have but on other forums I've read a lot of dissatisfied people on their extended reviews (12-18months) of these things failing. While the keys work, the electronics do not. What brand did you go with?

I went cheap to see if it was something I really liked. I found an new/open box unit for around $80.00 of eBay. It is a MICTUNING RV Keyless Entry Door Lock.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ajk170

The two upgrades we did this year was 1)added the sleep number bed (queen) (we have a king at the house but it's not for everyone)

We have thought about purchasing a Sleep Number bed, since we also have one at home, but is it bendable enough so we would still have access the our under bed storage?

Quote:

Originally Posted by ajk170

and the Torklift Glowstep (4 step) from etrailer. The steps were super simple to install as a retrofit and we love them.

Something to think about! We love the Moreride steps on all the new units we tour at RV shows, especially the ones with the lift assist, but the Glowsteps would definitely be a step above what we have now... (Pun Intended)

ajk170 · 08-15-2019, 08:44 PM

WNY- we have a regular queen S/N (it's a 2005 model) in our camper that we got from a family member and since it was under warranty replaced almost all the part (not the pump since it is still fine- just not a cool and quite as our 2018 king model). And it is super light and flexible when lifting up the bed. However, that's not really an issue for us since I installed drawer gliders under the bed by cutting out the two panels at the foot of the bed and upholstering drawer fronts and installing a plywood base that I could install the glides onto. Then made a couple shallow boxes and installed the glides and drawer fronts on the boxes. I did this primarily because we use to have the "tilt-a-bed" system in stalled before it died. It was a cool idea and pulled the bed up so as to give you a foot or two more manuever space in the bedroom. But it was REALLY heavy. So much so that the DW couldn't lift the bed and admittedly it gave me a workout too. The solution was the drawers. Once the system failed, we ripped it out and just went with the mattress (which was rather heavy as well). Once the S/N bed came available, it was a no brainer for us. We did loose a foot of space and we had to change the 3/8" wood for a slightly longer piece to support the extra length, but it was totally worth it. Plus the Outback 316RL has a good spot inside a cabinet for the pump that's near power that actually puts the pump to the side of the bed which I think provides for more flexibility when the bed is lifted up. And in the rare moments that we've actually lifted the bed up since installing the S/N, it's super lite and the angle in-which you are lifting seems to be rather shallow and doesn't seem to put any stress on the connections. Actually, the bigger issue we've had is deflating it enough as we've travelled out here in the west. We went to Disneyland in Apr and going over the Sierra's (i think it was the Sierra's) we thought we deflated it enough (down to 40%) only to find that thing was really pumped up as we were crossing them (we stopped for a break and we checked it). Consequently, we took to 5% and it seemed to be fine for the rest of teh journey out there. When we came back from there, we put it at 5% and again, checked it during a break as we were crossing the mountains and it was at 55% ! No damage seemed to occur and it continues to be great ever sense, but we do watch it now! When it's in storage I think the DW keeps it pretty low due to the high temps we get in El Paso. If we didn't get this one for free, we probably would have the S/N's short queen but we both love the regular queen despite loosing some space.

WNY Bullet · 08-16-2019, 01:56 AM

Great information, thanks!

WNY Bullet · 08-25-2019, 01:40 AM

I was getting tired of my AC condensation always dripping by my entrance door (or rain runoff), so I make a removable downspout to run the water to the other side!

I made it with some old vacuum cleaner parts I had laying around, several Harbor Freight suction cups, and a length of PVC. I still need to paint the PVC black to help hide it.

WNY Bullet · 09-06-2019, 03:14 AM

I found a used Carefree Sunblocker on Craigslist (9'x19') and had the width shorten to 17.5' to work with my awning. I originally bought two support poles, but added two more so we can fly the shade out to extend our outdoor space. We love having the extra space!

k94x4 · 09-07-2019, 07:57 AM

What a great list and how to's. Thanks!

WNY Bullet · 09-07-2019, 09:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by k94x4

What a great list and how to's. Thanks!

I'm glad you are enjoying the thread.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Mike

slimchancepistolero · 09-07-2019, 10:55 AM

WNY Bullet, you said you Installed Haul Gauge In Truck ... how did you make out with it .... i also have done that, with mixed results

WNY Bullet · 09-07-2019, 11:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slimchancepistolero

WNY Bullet, you said you Installed Haul Gauge In Truck ... how did you make out with it .... i also have done that, with mixed results

To be honest, I installed it but haven't gotten around to setting it up and trying it. I was thinking about it the other day, that I needed to set it up.

What were the mixed results you got?

slimchancepistolero · 09-07-2019, 12:58 PM

i could do the pinweight and payload but am having trouble with the GCVW .. this is on a 2019 Ram 2500 .... i contacted HaulGauge tech and they found there was no data saved to my trk .... they went out and rented a 2019 Ram 2500 for data i could then get from their server on setup ... still have problems with GCVW ... i really wanted it for pin weight and payload ... have a new 5er

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