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07-13-2018, 05:54 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Puyallup
Posts: 244
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All is good now... everything works great. Good thing I got it fixed as the waiting line at the RV repair shop is long, mid September at best.
Thanks for all the advice and help here which made it possible to be fixed now.
__________________
2015 Starcraft AR-ONE 14RB
2014 Ram 1500 SLT Quad Cab 4x4
5.7L V8 Hemi 395 HP, 410 TQ 8-speed auto, w/3.92 rear ratio
K&N 71-1561 Air Intake w/FlowMaster Exhaust system.
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07-24-2018, 05:08 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Puyallup
Posts: 244
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OK, vacation is coming up and this has me worried a bit again.
I was looking at the trailer where it is stored today, inspecting the bubbles I have on the front (that problem is in another thread) and decided to check on the sliders. the one on the right appears to be separating a bit at the top front. Is the L bar supposed to be at an angle like that too? See pics.
I'm going to put a flat board on the bottom with 4x6 blocks under and on top of a jack. That should keep it from moving especially while traveling.
__________________
2015 Starcraft AR-ONE 14RB
2014 Ram 1500 SLT Quad Cab 4x4
5.7L V8 Hemi 395 HP, 410 TQ 8-speed auto, w/3.92 rear ratio
K&N 71-1561 Air Intake w/FlowMaster Exhaust system.
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07-24-2018, 05:12 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 409
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jack65
OK, vacation is coming up and this has me worried a bit again.
I was looking at the trailer where it is stored today, inspecting the bubbles I have on the front (that problem is in another thread) and decided to check on the sliders. the one on the right appears to be separating a bit at the top front. Is the L bar supposed to be at an angle like that too? See pics.
I'm going to put a flat board on the bottom with 4x6 blocks under and on top of a jack. That should keep it from moving especially while traveling.
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Add the fender washers to each screw. If you need to, go up one size of the last two screws. Don't do the bigger screws unless it is stripped or loose, though.
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07-27-2018, 06:59 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Puyallup
Posts: 244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madmaxmutt
Add the fender washers to each screw. If you need to, go up one size of the last two screws. Don't do the bigger screws unless it is stripped or loose, though.
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By bigger screws, do you mean bigger diameter? If they're not loose at all, do I leave it alone?
I went back yesterday to put a jack under the bed to take the weight off the rails. Pics attached. Here is what it looked like at the top. Not so bad, especially the one on the right.
__________________
2015 Starcraft AR-ONE 14RB
2014 Ram 1500 SLT Quad Cab 4x4
5.7L V8 Hemi 395 HP, 410 TQ 8-speed auto, w/3.92 rear ratio
K&N 71-1561 Air Intake w/FlowMaster Exhaust system.
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07-27-2018, 07:17 AM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 409
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Only use larger diameter screws if the current screws feel like the holes are stripped. And, only one size larger if needed. Otherwise, just add washers and tighten the screws. The washers spread the support for the rail to more surface area. That keeps the sides of the rail from wrapping around the screw head.
The lift/support will certainly help.
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08-03-2018, 06:55 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Puyallup
Posts: 244
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Update on my slider rollers/rails. As these first 4 pics show, what the right and left looks like hanging loose and with the jack support to keep weight off and for traveling. The left side rail looks a little loose compared to the right side, even with jack support. This weekend I will slide the bed out and put a washer under the rail screws on right side to see if that helps.
In last pic, I had moved the jack over a bit to be dead centered between the two sliders rails. I'm going to cut 2x4 to put on the sides so it doesn't move while traveling.
Do you guys know of something I can buy locally, such as Home Depot (or) that would serve my purpose better?
__________________
2015 Starcraft AR-ONE 14RB
2014 Ram 1500 SLT Quad Cab 4x4
5.7L V8 Hemi 395 HP, 410 TQ 8-speed auto, w/3.92 rear ratio
K&N 71-1561 Air Intake w/FlowMaster Exhaust system.
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08-03-2018, 07:09 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 409
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You should do a series of screws with the washers. That will help distribute the load better. I did all of them on my first trailer. I only did the first four on the current trailer.
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08-03-2018, 07:45 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Puyallup
Posts: 244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madmaxmutt
You should do a series of screws with the washers. That will help distribute the load better. I did all of them on my first trailer. I only did the first four on the current trailer.
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I haven't looked yet, not until tomorrow when I pull the bed out, but how many screws per rail? Your saying to add more screws? Any idea how much of a gap between the ceiling and roof as not to get too long a screw? Is there a wood frame between the ceiling and roof where it screws to?
__________________
2015 Starcraft AR-ONE 14RB
2014 Ram 1500 SLT Quad Cab 4x4
5.7L V8 Hemi 395 HP, 410 TQ 8-speed auto, w/3.92 rear ratio
K&N 71-1561 Air Intake w/FlowMaster Exhaust system.
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08-03-2018, 08:09 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 409
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Don't add more screws. Your last statement made me think you were only doing one screw per rail.
The framing depth is enough for the original screws. If you are forced to replace one, just get the same length.
Do one screw at a time so you do not cause a rail alignment problem.
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08-08-2018, 02:59 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Puyallup
Posts: 244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madmaxmutt
Don't add more screws. Your last statement made me think you were only doing one screw per rail.
The framing depth is enough for the original screws. If you are forced to replace one, just get the same length.
Do one screw at a time so you do not cause a rail alignment problem.
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OK, I tried to get the screw(s) out with the bed jacked up to take pressure off and couldn't get the first 4 screws in the front to budge by hand with a regular philips screwdriver. So, since they are not loose at all and tight, I decided to leave it alone? Or should I get a power tool and get it out anyways to put the washers in?
The two pics show how I'm supporting the bed for travel so it don't move. 2x4's on the sides and rear. Will put one in the front next. A bit of a hassle to put in and out, but I want it secured at all times when unless the bed is out while camping. I'm going to figure out a nicer looking and easier way of doing this when I get back home.
Question, while traveling is it possible if I have it jacked up too tight, that could cause damage going over bumps. I have 8 miles of gravel and potholes before arriving at Takhlakh Lake, just under Mt Adams. I have it snugged, the one lever ramp up tight.
NOTE: Another question. When pulling the bed out, is it normal for it to wobble from side to side? I have my wife inside to help keep it straight as I pull it out, which makes it easier to do than by myself. I don't know what is "normal" as this is my first trailer.
__________________
2015 Starcraft AR-ONE 14RB
2014 Ram 1500 SLT Quad Cab 4x4
5.7L V8 Hemi 395 HP, 410 TQ 8-speed auto, w/3.92 rear ratio
K&N 71-1561 Air Intake w/FlowMaster Exhaust system.
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08-08-2018, 05:26 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 409
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The bed should be out when you try the screws, not in. There should not be downward weight on the innermost portion of the rails when you remove the screws.
Based solely on the pictures you posted before, I would do the washers. It appears the bending of the rails has begun on your trailer.
I can only venture a guess on the other parts. I would not want anything that is not purely stable under it while moving. I know both of my slides moved smothly when operating properly. No side to side movement that I have ever noticed. They do tend to droop a little near the end of the run out, and snug back up at the very end.
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08-08-2018, 05:52 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Puyallup
Posts: 244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madmaxmutt
The bed should be out when you try the screws, not in. There should not be downward weight on the innermost portion of the rails when you remove the screws.
With the jack holding it firmly at the top, there should be no downward pressure at all...
Based solely on the pictures you posted before, I would do the washers. It appears the bending of the rails has begun on your trailer.
How can that be if the screws are so tight? I does appear to be a gap at that end on the right side.
I can only venture a guess on the other parts. I would not want anything that is not purely stable under it while moving. I know both of my slides moved smoothly when operating properly. No side to side movement that I have ever noticed.
It was definitely moving side to side some when pulling it out. With my wife inside supporting it, it went a lot smoother. I wonder if there is another problem there? I will have to check when I get back from vacation. I'm out of time.
They do tend to droop a little near the end of the run out, and snug back up at the very end.
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When I get back from vacation, I'll get my brother in law to help me see what is going on. We have to fix the front where the delamination bubbles are at the same time. Too many issue on this trailer. I'm going to fix it and sell it. New trailer next time and I will read every review online, especially here on this forum. The last two pics show the trailer at it's worse two weeks ago, somewhat better now? Have no idea why as the weather has been the same.
__________________
2015 Starcraft AR-ONE 14RB
2014 Ram 1500 SLT Quad Cab 4x4
5.7L V8 Hemi 395 HP, 410 TQ 8-speed auto, w/3.92 rear ratio
K&N 71-1561 Air Intake w/FlowMaster Exhaust system.
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08-08-2018, 06:29 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 409
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The rail's flat surface bends around the small screw head. The tolley pull down on the sides, not the center.
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08-09-2022, 05:14 PM
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#34
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2022
Location: shawano
Posts: 1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jack65
Both of my 2007 Keystone 18RS Outback rear sliders on the inside ceiling track broke. Where do I get the part? The ceiling track is fine.
I can post pics tomorrow when I go to storage and take off the part. Looks to be one piece.
This was our first trip out with the trailer and I made the stupid mistake of pulling the bed part way out without the outside rails on first when it broke. They didn't show me how to do it when I bought the trailer and I thought it was like our popup trailer where the support goes on "after" you pull the bed out. Didn't realize you have to have the rails on first with this one. DUH! Wifey was kinda upset.
In case some of you are wondering why I didn't read the manual first. The one I got, the same one online is Keystone based manual, not specific like for Outbacks and sucked for info on a lot of stuff. As for sliding out the bed, it only showed info for electric ones, nothing on manual and no pics at all. I sat down and read it before attempting to slide the bed out. There was no internet connection up where we camped to look for youtube info:
http://1-4u-computer-graphics.com/20...Waterfalls.htm
I've googled everywhere for the parts... can't find it.
I hope I posted in the right place.
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I hope I post this in the right place too, don't feel alone I did the same thing on My 23RS. The replacement pieces from the door place are still available thank God,actual replacement parts run triple! Gonna order parts tomorrow after I get a chance to do some measurements. Keystones had to have gotten these from the same place. Thank you
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