Wheel Bearing Observation

bsmith0404 · 06-16-2016, 05:29 PM

I repacked the bearings on the 5er today. My normal routine is to do this every other year. This is not a boat trailer that gets dunked on a regular basis. I see it more like front wheel bearings on an older car/4x2 truck. My RV doesn't get a lot of miles so every other years is sufficient for a repack. On years that I don't pull the hub and do complete repack, I add a bit of grease through the axle grease zerk. Many will disagree with that part based on past history themselves or what they've seen happen to others.

Here's my thoughts/observations: When I first purchased the 5er two year ago, I added nearly 1/2 tube of grease through the zerks. My belief is that the factory does not fill the hub. It takes nearly 1/2 tube to fill the hub and repack each bearing. (I had to use tubes to repack because the local parts store did not have a tub in the brand I wanted). If you have recently purchased a new RV, ADD some grease SOON! Between my dad and I, we've had this happen with 3 different new RVs over the past 6 years.

Last year I added some grease through the zerks again, just enough to start pushing the new grease out through the front bearing.

What did I find this year when I repacked them? Everything looked great, no grease on the brakes, the seal in good shape, everything the way it is supposed to be. When I started pushing new grease into the bearings, it was difficult to tell the difference between new and old. Even the grease in the hub looked great.

This has been my routine on utility trailers, car trailers, ATV trailers, and RVs for over 20 years. Boat trailers I repacked every year, sometime multiple times a year depending on how many times they went into the water. I've never had a grease seal blow out and I like the fact that new grease is getting put into the bearings without having to pull it all apart on the off year. Maybe my feelings will change if I ever blow a seal, but I until then........

The main thing I do is pump the grease gun handle very slowly while spinning the wheel. Pumping it too fast will not allow the grease to push into the rear bearing and into the hub and will blow the seal. NEVER use a pneumatic grease gun! This process has worked well for me through the years and I've never had a bearing fail.

Alpine · 06-16-2016, 07:29 PM

Hear hear my friend, we are on the same page! If I were writing of my experience with the Alpine it would be word for word!

denverpilot · 06-17-2016, 03:55 AM

I can't decide if I'm in the always pack by hand or sometimes use the zerk crowd. I've done both with two different trailers.

I'll throw another idea out there for those interested in running their luck with the zerk...

Do it in warm weather. Give the grease a chance to not be hard as a rock because it's cold so it'll have a chance to flow around things and not blow out the seal.

Just my little extra thought on the matter. I won't be out there in late fall or early spring pumping grease into the zerk, it's just too "thick" and it's harder to go nice and slow with it.

It also depends a whole lot on how many miles you're putting on in a year. I've seen some pretty good looking clean grease at least once when I took it all apart.

This year I think is zerk year. We finally hit 90F yesterday so it's nearly time.

I always carry a non contact IR thermometer and watch for heating up of things that shouldn't be different temps than other parts nor too high on road trips, too.

bsmith0404 · 06-17-2016, 04:49 AM

Good point on the temps.

Desert185 · 06-17-2016, 06:57 AM

Yeah, the temp helps.

The heartburn I have with using a zerk, besides the chance for a seal bypass, is adding a different grease to the original grease. The two greases may not be compatible causing a deterioration of the grease and harm to the bearings. If one does a take-apart, cleans and greases the bearing manually, replaces the seal...and then uses the zerk at a later date with the SAME GREASE, then issues are minimized.

Also agree on the frequent use of an infrared temp gun as one travels.

concours · 06-17-2016, 07:17 AM

Good points but using the grease zerk method still doesn't inspect the brakes for wear, broken hard wear and oil/grease contamination.

silverbullet18 · 06-17-2016, 07:56 AM

So I just purchased my 2016 Bullet in February. I need to check the bearings on it already?

**JRTJH** · 06-17-2016, 08:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by silverbullet18

So I just purchased my 2016 Bullet in February. I need to check the bearings on it already?

Unless you're "positive" that the manufacturer (Dexter or Lippert) assembled them correctly, the transporter didn't damage them during handling, the factory didn't drop them or damage them during installation, the delivery driver didn't hit a curb or otherwise damage them and unless the dealer did the inspection for you, pretty much, the answer is, "Yes, you probably do need to inspect your hubs, bearings and brakes, paying special attention to the seal and adjusting your brakes after you reassemble the hub."

Even if all of the above was done (or damage didn't happen), you need to adjust your brakes after the trailer has been towed a couple hundred miles and the brake shoes have "worn into the hubs".

Then, an annual brake and magnet inspection is a good idea.

silverbullet18 · 06-17-2016, 08:18 AM

I am no dummy when it comes to car repair but have never worked on TT brakes or Hubs. Would this be something i would take to the dealer or can i do myself. Dont know how to adjust TT brakes

**JRTJH** · 06-17-2016, 08:50 AM

If you have ever changed the brake shoes on the rear axle of most any "car with drum brakes" then you're already equipped with the "skills" to change/adjust the brakes on a travel trailer. The only "significant" difference is that travel trailer brakes are much "more simple" in that they don't have the hydraulics (wheel cylinder mechanism) which is replaced with an electric magnet. Adjusting travel trailer brakes is the same as automotive drum brakes, remove the back plate rubber plug, use a flat blade screwdriver to adjust the star nut to "lock" the wheel (while turning) then "unlock" the star nut until the wheel spins freely with just a very little drag. Then, move on to the next wheel.

gearhead · 06-17-2016, 11:07 AM

I pumped the bearings when I got our new Montana home, and yes it took a lot of grease before I saw some returning through the O/B bearing. Actually I think I gave up on one of them. Of course after years of "what if" training at work, I worried about the seals immediately after I did it. Last year I pulled the hubs and repacked. The seals were intact. However when I reinstalled the seals I tried something. After I got the new seal started in the hub I put a spot or 2 of medium strength Loctite on the O.D of the seal. Just a little, not enough to get behind the seal. Then push the seal on in. When I reassembled the hub there was that grease zerk staring at me, so I gave them a few shots. Of course I again worried about the seals and rechecked them and they were good. But the hub should not be required to be completely full of grease like on a boat trailer with Bearing Buddies. Just packing the bearings and maybe a tablespoon or 2 of extra in the housing. I do always try to get plenty between the seal and the I/B bearing.
Brakes...I swore I wasn't going to tell this on myself....but hey we're all friends. When I repacked the bearings last year I thought I better adjust the brakes. So I adjusted one up to where it wouldn't turn and then backed off to where I could just hear and feel a little drag. Went to the next wheel and spun it, it sounded and felt just like the one I adjusted. Heck with this I'm not doing anymore of them. Well....4 weeks ago I stop for a break on the first day of the long vacation. Get the infrared temp gun and check brakes and tires. All good at about 85 degrees except one at 160. Bearing area at the center of the hub was OK, just hotter on the O.D. Hmmm an issue. Yeah it was the one that I adjusted. So at the campground I re-adjusted that one. Checked the next day and the temp was down to 140. Others were not much more than ambient. Long story a bit shorter...while in Elkhart I got Duncan RV to readjust the brakes. I told the tech the whole sad story. Discussed if that 1 brake was doing everything, the others doing nothing. He pulled the drums and we looked and saw no issues. Charged 1 hour labor. Good to go. I hook back up and do my usual tug test. Not much tug from the brakes. Go get the tech. He said turn the gain up some, they will be good. Get out on the road and I don't have much brake. I can get up to 55mph, no exhaust brake, no tow haul, and manually slide the brake switch on the dash and can barely feel it brake. I'm not going anywhere anytime soon in this weather. I'm thinking I may start all over with self adjusting brakes from eTrailer....about October when the weather cools.
whew...fingers are tired! lol
edit add...yes temps can be a factor using grease. In these brutal Houston winters I have put a grease gun on a hot steam line before using it. Just not too long.

bsmith0404 · 06-17-2016, 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Desert185

Yeah, the temp helps.

The heartburn I have with using a zerk, besides the chance for a seal bypass, is adding a different grease to the original grease. The two greases may not be compatible causing a deterioration of the grease and harm to the bearings. If one does a take-apart, cleans and greases the bearing manually, replaces the seal...and then uses the zerk at a later date with the SAME GREASE, then issues are minimized.

Also agree on the frequent use of an infrared temp gun as one travels.

The manufacturers have a list of compatible greases that will work with the OE grease. I use Mystik JT6 Hi Temp #2 Red. It is also compatible with red n tacky that so many people like to use along with several others. For example Dexter uses Lithium Complex greases. This link is their data on what type of grease and compatible greases. It doesn't necessarily say compatible greases, it just says approved greases, but they are all lithium complex thickeners which determines compatibility. Look at page 6.
http://www.dexteraxle.com/i/u/614960...d_Bearings.pdf

Quote:

Originally Posted by silverbullet18

So I just purchased my 2016 Bullet in February. I need to check the bearings on it already?

In a word..yes.

gearhead · 06-17-2016, 06:56 PM

Don't tell anybody but I'm using double cross (EXXON) Mobil 1 synthetic. Readily available in the small town. Lucas Red & Sticky might bear some research though. Think I saw it at Tractor Supply. They might have that Mystic as well.

bsmith0404 · 06-17-2016, 07:04 PM

I used to use the Mobil 1, but got tired of the red oily puddle on the floor under the spot where I hang my grease gun. I've never had that problem with Mystik. I should have thought ahead and ordered a tub of it from their website though so I wouldn't have had to dig and squeeze it out of the tube.

gearhead · 06-17-2016, 07:22 PM

Yeah the Mobil 1 seems to have less binder or less soap, or less something. It feels "softer".
I need to do more reading before I change. Timken has a grease as well. I had a vendor that liked it when he worked on his pump. I never saw any issues.

bsmith0404 · 06-17-2016, 07:33 PM

There are a lot of options out there. I switched to Mystik because my dad always used it on the farm and on the snowmobiles when I was younger. They have a huge line-up of specialty products from heavy equipment to ATV, to marine. I like that they aren't a one size fits all and actually recognize the different needs. Farm and Fleet always carried a good supply of the different products. (I use their oils and gear lube in my truck as well). I heard Tractor Supply carries their products too, I need to stop in there to check it out, but I always forget about them since they're a bit out of the way for me.

Desert185 · 06-17-2016, 08:50 PM

I've been using this (NLGI #2 version) for years for everything. Check the high Timken load rating. Available from Amazon.

http://www.texasrefinery.com/assets/...n--chassis.pdf

tech740 · 06-19-2016, 04:26 PM

Been using Lucas Red and Tacky for 8 years on anything I can put grease in. I used to work at an auto parts store and it was always rave reviews. The drop point is very high and the race car guys loved it for wheel bearings. It also stays non solid in extremely low temps. Had snowmobilers that went to Hudson bay area and loved it for that appliation also. I have had great luck.

kfxgreenie · 06-19-2016, 05:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gearhead

I pumped the bearings when I got our new Montana home, and yes it took a lot of grease before I saw some returning through the O/B bearing. Actually I think I gave up on one of them. Of course after years of "what if" training at work, I worried about the seals immediately after I did it. Last year I pulled the hubs and repacked. The seals were intact. However when I reinstalled the seals I tried something. After I got the new seal started in the hub I put a spot or 2 of medium strength Loctite on the O.D of the seal. Just a little, not enough to get behind the seal. Then push the seal on in. When I reassembled the hub there was that grease zerk staring at me, so I gave them a few shots. Of course I again worried about the seals and rechecked them and they were good. But the hub should not be required to be completely full of grease like on a boat trailer with Bearing Buddies. Just packing the bearings and maybe a tablespoon or 2 of extra in the housing. I do always try to get plenty between the seal and the I/B bearing.
Brakes...I swore I wasn't going to tell this on myself....but hey we're all friends. When I repacked the bearings last year I thought I better adjust the brakes. So I adjusted one up to where it wouldn't turn and then backed off to where I could just hear and feel a little drag. Went to the next wheel and spun it, it sounded and felt just like the one I adjusted. Heck with this I'm not doing anymore of them. Well....4 weeks ago I stop for a break on the first day of the long vacation. Get the infrared temp gun and check brakes and tires. All good at about 85 degrees except one at 160. Bearing area at the center of the hub was OK, just hotter on the O.D. Hmmm an issue. Yeah it was the one that I adjusted. So at the campground I re-adjusted that one. Checked the next day and the temp was down to 140. Others were not much more than ambient. Long story a bit shorter...while in Elkhart I got Duncan RV to readjust the brakes. I told the tech the whole sad story. Discussed if that 1 brake was doing everything, the others doing nothing. He pulled the drums and we looked and saw no issues. Charged 1 hour labor. Good to go. I hook back up and do my usual tug test. Not much tug from the brakes. Go get the tech. He said turn the gain up some, they will be good. Get out on the road and I don't have much brake. I can get up to 55mph, no exhaust brake, no tow haul, and manually slide the brake switch on the dash and can barely feel it brake. I'm not going anywhere anytime soon in this weather. I'm thinking I may start all over with self adjusting brakes from eTrailer....about October when the weather cools.
whew...fingers are tired! lol
edit add...yes temps can be a factor using grease. In these brutal Houston winters I have put a grease gun on a hot steam line before using it. Just not too long.

Just thinking here, but you may not have an issue at all. There have been several post on the "weak" feeling of the ram Integrated Trailer Brake Control on the Cummins forum. Sliding the switch will not lock up the tires. Yet others have posted when the brakes are really needed and you have to get on the binders the controller will give good braking quality. The new 2014 and up (i think) RAM brake controller is just programmed different I guess. Several RAM owners have complained and have made dealers chase the "issue" with no real results and some that do not like the feel of the oem controller have just installed an aftermarket brake controller.

gearhead · 06-19-2016, 06:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kfxgreenie

Just thinking here, but you may not have an issue at all. There have been several post on the "weak" feeling of the ram Integrated Trailer Brake Control on the Cummins forum. Sliding the switch will not lock up the tires. Yet others have posted when the brakes are really needed and you have to get on the binders the controller will give good braking quality. The new 2014 and up (i think) RAM brake controller is just programmed different I guess. Several RAM owners have complained and have made dealers chase the "issue" with no real results and some that do not like the feel of the oem controller have just installed an aftermarket brake controller.

Yeah that could be it. I'm thinking when I get all caught up around the house I will re-visit the issue.
It seems to stop ok. But with the truck in tow-haul and the exhaust brake, I don't use the brake pedal much.

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