Alpine 3730FB Questions

jshupe · 05-16-2016, 05:23 AM

My wife and I are considering full-timing. We're not sure if we want to dive completely into it, or start with some extended stays, but it's on the table and we're looking at RVs again. Third time is a charm?

A couple years ago I had a F150 Ecoboost and a Keystone Hideout 260LHS. I never quite felt comfortable with that trailer and truck combo, despite whatever hitch I had, though the Propride I purchased made it significantly better. The Propride also created issues of its own, like ground clearance. Either way, we decided we wanted a nicer RV and stepped up to a new 2500HD and a Crossroads RV Hill Country 33RL, which is a lightweight fifth wheel at under 10K lbs, with 2k pin weight, and was a substantial upgrade for us. Unfortunately, it isn't a rig we would want to full time in, for a few reasons:

- Small RV fridge
- 1 bath (once discovering that they have 1.5ba floorplans, we want one)
- Small bathroom/ closet
- Queen bed (we want king)
- No W/D connections
- No gen prep or built in generator
- Short on storage space
- No auto leveling
- 15" wheels limit LT options
- Probably closer to 3 season than 4
- Build quality: Even though we purchased our Keystone with the rear axle askew due to a missing hanger bolt, and the Crossroads has higher end components, I feel that the Keystone was better built product with better quality control. We had roof leaks, improperly packed axles, improperly wired electrical sockets, etc with our Crossroads unit, that were all discovered on our first trip. They took about three months to fix under warranty.
- Warranty support: dealing with Keystone was much more pleasant

After looking online at all sorts of units, we are seriously considering an Alpine 3730FB. I'm looking at 2016 models but found a 2015 still on the lot at a considerable discount, and am planning to go see it today. It's a front bath floor plan with everything we are wanting, except it doesn't come with the generator prep package. Does anyone know if you can buy the OEM parts for this from Keystone? Or have the dealer install the generator and get all of the supplies together? I will also try asking the dealer today.

Does anyone know of the differences from 15-16, I found the brochures for both and nothing sticks out to me, but I'd like to know what I'll be missing.

Do these tend to weigh in pretty close to the brochure weights? I've never weighed our current trailer, but I've read online that those are next to worthless.

I'm considering selling my Pullrite and buying an Andersen hitch. Does anyone have this setup on a 6.5' bed, and how sharp can they turn with it?

Can you bolt one of those RV hitches onto the frame of a Alpine, or does the design not permit it? Could a fab shop do it? What would that do for warranty? (for a bike rack)

Also, I'm really wondering about how the build quaility of the Alpine lines compares to the Montana. Does anyone have any feedback on theirs?

**JRTJH** · 05-16-2016, 06:35 AM

I hope you're considering a heavier tow vehicle than the 2500 for such a trailer. The Alpine pin weight is 2500 pounds empty. Add a washer dryer to the front, a generator in the front storage and you'll be over 3000 pounds empty. With passenger(s) in the truck and a hitch in the bed, well, you get the idea.....

Nice "specialty segment" trailer. My only comment is that it "consumes" about 1/3 the total square footage in bathrooms.... That's a lot of "wasted space" when it comes to a cold, wintery day inside........... Something to think about, but many people consider themselves in that "specialty segment" and the floorplan is a "perfect match" for their lifestyle.

Any "qualified RV service department" can install a generator if there's sufficient space, so that should only be a consideration based on your wallet and desires.

So, if the "shoe fits" then "look seriously" !!!!! Good Luck.

CWSWine · 05-16-2016, 06:41 AM

I agree with above. My Montana is also in the Luxury class and had 2680 lbs pin and grew to over 3100 loaded and ready to go camping and mine most of the weight is loaded aft of the 5er axles. So you would need 3100 plus 400 in passengers and 200 for hitch you need a payload on your truck of around 3700 lbs. I have owned several of Keystone 5er and have found that ones I have owned the pin was between 22 and 23 percent of weight of the 5er loaded and ready to go camping.

When I saw a front bath they took a lot of room out of the living room/ktichen and when I enter it felt like it was 32 foot 5er rather than the 38 foot 5er

jshupe · 01-11-2017, 10:14 PM

We did pull the trigger on the trailer. I am still towing it with the 2500HD, but put a Kelderman 4-Link Air Ride under it and run Michelin LRH 19.5" tires, among a few other things. Suspension is rated for 12K#, mfg rear axle for 10,800#, wheels for 4.5K#/ea, tires for 4.9K/ea. We're running under 7.5K# RAW and just under GCVWR when we hit the scales. While it doesn't change the sticker, the H rated tires and rest of the work make the lowest common denominator for rear axle weight 9K#. It tows far more stable than the Crossroads did on the stock suspension, with a empty pin of just 1998# and weight of under 10K.

I ended up with a Hensley Trailer Saver BD3 hitch instead of the Pullrite or the Andersen, and can hit about 85deg with it before hitting the cab. And I swapped out the drums on the Alpine for Titan discs and it was one of the best mods I've ever done.

As for the front bath, in this particular trailer there is still plenty of living space, and a sufficient bedroom for a king bed. The bathroom is excellent as it doubles as a changing room, has a larger shower than our last two units, and a lot more closet space. Having a second bath is great. We have spent at least six weeks in it and are very happy with the decision to trade. We added a combo W/D unit and had the dealer install an Onan 5500.

gnirwin · 01-12-2017, 11:15 AM

Congrats on your new trailer! We bought a new Alpine 3010 last summer. So far really like it. The warranty issues I have had so far have been handled with no problems at all. We are 2 years away from retirement where we will be using it 3 or 4 months in winter and an occasional trip. I too have the 2500 that I added air bags to and I know I am maxed out but so far no issues with pulling it even thru some pretty serious Pennsylania hills (mtns.?) I don"t think we will put a washer and drier in ours. We do want the new style of stairs that Mor-Ryde came out with. And we are switching out the 2 recliners for a hide-a-bed. We wanted to get something before retirement so we could have the bugs worked out and purchase any options before we retire.

jshupe · 01-12-2017, 12:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gnirwin

Congrats on your new trailer! We bought a new Alpine 3010 last summer. So far really like it. The warranty issues I have had so far have been handled with no problems at all. We are 2 years away from retirement where we will be using it 3 or 4 months in winter and an occasional trip. I too have the 2500 that I added air bags to and I know I am maxed out but so far no issues with pulling it even thru some pretty serious Pennsylania hills (mtns.?) I don"t think we will put a washer and drier in ours. We do want the new style of stairs that Mor-Ryde came out with. And we are switching out the 2 recliners for a hide-a-bed. We wanted to get something before retirement so we could have the bugs worked out and purchase any options before we retire.

Thanks! Congrats on yours, as well. If you're worried about weights, next time you go for wheels and tires, consider 19.5"s. They're a little pricey, but should last twice as long per set, and give you a lot of additional tire capacity as well as stability, due to the much thicker, steel belted sidewalls.

We've been looking at steps as well. I'm considering the RV-Co Port-A-Deck instead (check them out). I've been considering taking out the recliners and building in a custom storage area (cabinets) with a cushion on the top that can serve as a twin-ish sized day bed. If I do, I'll post some photos.

gnirwin · 01-12-2017, 02:28 PM

Yes, I will look at those steps too. We ordered another couch through Keystone that makes into a bed (TRI FOLD) and matches the decor. Ours came with an air mattress which we thought was silly. We felt we didn't need four recliners either. We own a cottage so we moved the 2 recliners there. Yes I am going to upgrade the tires before we retire so I will keep your suggestion in mind.

CWtheMan · 01-12-2017, 03:44 PM

You obviously know that limiting safety factors are GVWR, GAWR & GCWR, I'd be very surprised if your trailer or TV is ever under any of those factors.

jshupe · 01-12-2017, 07:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CWtheMan

You obviously know that limiting safety factors are GVWR, GAWR & GCWR, I'd be very surprised if your trailer or TV is ever under any of those factors.

As clearly noted in my post, I am under GCWR (24.5K) at all times. I am over GVWR for a 2500HD, but well within the limits for my modified vehicle. I'm not running helpers, I'm not running LRE tires, I'm running suspension and tires specifically engineered for heavy loads.

Frame, brakes, axles, and everything else except for suspension and wheels are the same as 3500HD SRW. I checked the part numbers myself, as well as noted many people on the Duramax-specific forums who came to the same conclusion. DRW uses the same components as SRW, except for the lengths of the axle shafts, the hub assemblies, and applicable body parts.

In fact, the difference on my model year 2500HD and 3500HD SRW amounts to a single upper overload leaf, and tire sizes that allow for more weight (specifically, no 20" options available on the 3500HD). Since I no longer have any leafs at all, and the upgrades I have are considered upgrades over the 3500HD DRW suspension, which has the strongest spring pack of all GM HD trucks, the suspension is not a concern. 19.5" commercial LRH tires are much sturdier than LRE tires. They provide similar lateral stability to dual LRE tires, so stability is closer to that of a DRW and SRW. Load handling is, too.

I am always well under FAWR, and over the 2500HD RAWR, but well within the limits of the suspension and tires I am running. Since the RAWR is based on those components, as well as other parts that my truck shares with the 3500HDs, I can calculate a new technical RAWR for my truck and know I am well within those limits. Some of the basis for those calculations were clearly outlined in my post. My actual RAW (yes, I know my numbers) is a little over the RAWR of the 3500HD SRW but well under that of the DRW.

Please, tell me specifically what components are not up to the task, and your justification for thinking so.

notanlines · 01-13-2017, 04:20 AM

I just love the (polite) arguments to follow between "my mind's made up, don't confuse me with the facts," the weight police, and the rest of us. Actually I have a couple of the attributes of all three groups.
Jshupe, you didn't step up very far with your new 2500HD other than in towing power. I still maintain the "look at the yellow sticker" mentality will keep you out of trouble. With all that most 3/4 ton users do in "upgrades" they could be driving a 1 ton. The difference between the 3/4 and one ton in the big three is usually around $600 to $1000, comparably equipped. I simply don't see why most owners who are faced with this problem can't go with the 1 ton.

bsmith0404 · 01-13-2017, 04:45 AM

Nice setup, you're going to love your new Alpine. You've done a lot of nice mods to your truck and you are obviously happy/satisfied with it. When we bought our Alpine, I had a similar truck without the mods and I decided to switch to a 3500 DRW. I'm happy I did, the difference is night and day. At this point it would be wasted time to debate it with you, but if you ever decide to change TVs, I would encourage you to go to a DRW with that 5er, trust me, you would be very happy.

jshupe · 01-13-2017, 07:22 AM

I have yet to see any technical justification for the accusation that my truck is inadequate. The poster yesterday obviously didn't even bother to fully read my post before beginning his critique. I'm honestly open to civil conversation about it, but nobody ever provides substantive critiques about my setup before pointing at the sticker. The sticker refers to the vehicle as it rolls off the production line. It does not accommodate any changes made to the vehicle, nor am I making any argument that it should (legally).

In the process of upgrading, I did have the usual stop gaps: larger LRE tires for more capacity, air bags, Timbrens, StableLoads, add-a-leafs. I tried all sorts of things and didn't like the ride, and especially the handling, of the truck. I already had five figures into mods before looking at the current suspension or tires, and I was considering washing that all away for a DRW. I'm firmly against the people who use those mods to exceed the ratings, as I've tried them myself and found them entirely insufficient. The only option in my opinion for a SRW (any SRW, incl. 3500) to tow heavy is a complete suspension replacement and commercial tires. With the current setup it tows like a dually, which is attributable to the tires I'm running, the panhard rod, and geometry of the rear suspension. I do have enough experience driving a DRW to make that comparison. I realize that is difficult to believe without actually driving it.

If I were in the market for a new truck today, I would just go for a DRW - in the end it was a lot of hassle, time, and money that was sunk into this to get it this way. Ultimately too much, because the difference between it and a DRW in suspension and tires alone is well north of $10K now. But I already had a lot of money into other areas of my truck, so I took on this build with a virtually unlimited budget and made it happen. I'm happy where I ended up, but don't necessarily recommend the same route to other people and would save my money with a DRW purchase if in the market again. I have 6K towing miles on this specific configuration, and my only regret is the amount spent.

CWtheMan · 01-13-2017, 01:17 PM

Only the vehicle manufacturer or certified vehicle alterer has the authority to change GVWR and GAWR.

https://www.gpo.gov/fdsys/pkg/CFR-20...6-sec567-7.xml

jshupe · 01-13-2017, 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CWtheMan

Only the vehicle manufacturer or certified vehicle alterer has the authority to change GVWR and GAWR.

https://www.gpo.gov/fdsys/pkg/CFR-20...6-sec567-7.xml

I never said anything to the contrary, or even go on to recommend other people use 3/4Ts for such large trailers.

What I asked for was a technical explanation of how I am unsafe. If I had a 3500HD with the same mods, we wouldn't be having this discussion. Yet every last part number would be the exact same because every differentiating component has been replaced.

Outback 325BH · 01-13-2017, 02:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jshupe

I never said anything to the contrary, or even go on to recommend other people use 3/4Ts for such large trailers.

What I asked for was a technical explanation of how I am unsafe. If I had a 3500HD with the same mods, we wouldn't be having this discussion. Yet every last part number would be the exact same because every differentiating component has been replaced.

Your arguing with a brick wall here. The yellow sticker police will ignore every rational explanation and bury their head in the sand. All I can figure is that they haven't the slightest clue about mods and mow they increase the vehicles ability.

You can say "I'm not talking about potentially legal limits, I'm only discussing actual physical limits" until you're blue in the face... then the very next post will be "but the yellow sticker says...".

I know they aren't obtuse, just argumentative.

People have been modding their vehicles since the model T. For some reason the RV crowd can't deal.

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Outback 325BH · 01-13-2017, 02:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by notanlines

The difference between the 3/4 and one ton in the big three is usually around $600 to $1000, comparably equipped. I simply don't see why most owners who are faced with this problem can't go with the 1 ton.

Several reasons can drive one to a 3/4 ton.

Availability: around here, a 1-ton SRW gasser is hard to find. Special order is an option, however there are downsides to that.

GVWR: the 10,000 GVWR has its benefits to some. Can mean the difference between CDL and not. Registration is another.

I'm sure there are more.

The ACTUAL differences between a 3/4 and 1-ton can vary from subtle to absolutely nothing. Because of this, some of us don't fret about having a 3/4 ton.

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