Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 

Go Back   Keystone RV Forums > Keystone Tech Forums > Repairs & Maintenance
Click Here to Login

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 11-25-2015, 07:40 AM   #1
cjelliott81
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Cocoa, Fl
Posts: 50
Butyl Tape and Silicone/Caulk?

I'm working through ensuring all exterior protrusions are well sealed on my camper, i.e. city water and power connections, cable connections, etc. A few questions:

- Is it appropriate to seal utilizing both butyl tape and silicone (or the appropriate equivalent) or is the butyl is sufficient?

- Recognizing silicone does not actually seal well to the laminated side of the camper, what is the appropriate sealant to use if there is in fact something else required besides the butyl?

- If I do need something besides the butyl - In the past when I've tried to reseal with silicone (before discovering what butyl tape was or that silicone doesn't stick) I've found that in general it just didn't look as good as the factory resulting in a thin layer of silicone surrounding the item I sealed as I tried to smooth the bead. Any recommendations to make it look better?
cjelliott81 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2015, 07:46 AM   #2
notanlines
Senior Member
 
notanlines's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Germantown, TN
Posts: 6,308
CJ, I'm no expert in sealants and caulking for RV's, I can assure you. However, having been in the painting and blasting business for more than 35 years let me tell you that silicone is not a very good sealant to use if you think it might need to be removed one day. Very few things will remove the remnants of silicone safely. Don't get me wrong, it is a great product, but it does have a couple shortcomings.
__________________
Jim in Memphis, Wife of 51 years is Brenda
2019 F450 6.7 Powerstroke
2018 Mobile Suites 40RSSA
2021 40' Jayco Eagle
2001 Road king w/matching Harley sidecar
2021 Yamaha X2 Wolverine 1000
notanlines is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2015, 07:49 AM   #3
rjsurfer
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 452
I agree silicon sealants look much better (if done right) than buytl or latex. The rule I use is, if its on a horizontal surface like the sides of the camper I'll use silicon knowing that I'll have to keep an eye on it the seam and possibly redo it every few years.

Silicon never sees the roof of my camper, its all Dicor products.

Ron W.
__________________
2019 Cougar 25RLS
03 Dodge 2500 Cummins
Disc brakes
700 watts solar
2000 watt inverter
rjsurfer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2015, 09:21 AM   #4
JRTJH
Site Team
 
JRTJH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,846
Butyl sealing tape is a "much improved" option over the older "clay putty" tape, but it doesn't "cure well" and will "weep" when exposed to high temperatures. If you look at most of the fixtures attached to the sidewall of your RV, you'll see that they were installed with butyl tape and have an "edge sealer" along the edge. This "edge sealer" looks similar to silicone, but is a polyurethane sealant, not silicone.

There are a number of different types of "sealant" that are available in 10.3 ounce tubes. One type is "silicone" which is not recommended for use on RV surfaces where it may need to be resealed or replaced. Silicone will not adhere to itself after it has cured, so it must be removed, an almost impossible task.

Polyurethane sealants are available at almost every RV parts/service store and are the "sealant of choice" for use on RV's. They don't have the "disadvantages" of silicone, can be removed, do adhere to a "cured layer" of the same material and offer similar durability, adhesion and longevity.

SIKAFLEX is one such product. DICOR non-leveling sealant is another. There are numerous other brands. Just don't use SILICONE !!!!

Here is a link to the SIKAFLEX website. There is a fairly good comparison of products located there. Note that they also market silicone under a similar product name, so be sure to get the "right stuff".

http://usa.sika.com/en/residential/r.../sealants.html
__________________
John



2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
JRTJH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2015, 12:18 PM   #5
chuckster57
Site Team
 
chuckster57's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,237
Sikaflex goes on nice, but is a real PITA to remove if you have to. I still use butyl tape and a decorative "edge" of silicone.

I see more and more makers using a sealant that I can only describe as hot glue. It is extremely sticky and worse than Sikaflex to remove.
__________________

2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.

Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
chuckster57 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2015, 01:03 PM   #6
JRTJH
Site Team
 
JRTJH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,846
You're so very correct, Chuck. Most any adhesive/sealant is hard to remove. I don't know if you've seen these (maybe you have) but they make cleanup and removal much easier. Plus, they won't damage FILON quite as easily as conventional razor blades.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o07_s00

Plus, like DICOR, Sikaflex doesn't have to be completely removed, just "cleaned up" as the new coat will stick to the old.

I've seen some of the "new stuff" you mentioned. It is something I don't think will be as durable as the "old stuff".... Plus, removing it is almost impossible and I don't know what will work to cover it up.... Any thoughts on how to "redo" the new stuff?
__________________
John



2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
JRTJH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2015, 05:40 PM   #7
chuckster57
Site Team
 
chuckster57's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,237
I use a windshield installing tool to remove the sealant and then clean the sidewall with a rag sprayed with acysol (sp).

I just clean as best I can then use the old stuff.
__________________

2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.

Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
chuckster57 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-2015, 04:54 AM   #8
notanlines
Senior Member
 
notanlines's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Germantown, TN
Posts: 6,308
In case there are any of you not close to an RV dealer and not able to buy products like Dicor, this is a very common product in the construction business 'MasterSeal NP1 (formerly Sonolastic NP1) One-Part Polyurethane Caulking Sealant', is available at most good construction supply dealers and is available in 11 different colors. Take my word for this, it will stick to a glass of water from the inside! Tensile strength, elongation and joint movement numbers are fabulous. It can be had for about $4.50 per tube online, I would imagine about $7.00 at your supplier.
__________________
Jim in Memphis, Wife of 51 years is Brenda
2019 F450 6.7 Powerstroke
2018 Mobile Suites 40RSSA
2021 40' Jayco Eagle
2001 Road king w/matching Harley sidecar
2021 Yamaha X2 Wolverine 1000
notanlines is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3
Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Keystone RV Company or any of its affiliates in any way. Keystone RV® is a registered trademark of the Keystone RV Company.


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 11:40 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.