Have used this many times but our last trip I belive wife hooked it up and didn't turn on water when we were dumping. No big deal got home let it go a couple weeks "forgot about it " went to fill the black tank "using the tank sprayer like I've done before " went to check a noise and breather under the bathroom sink is GUSHING WATER!! 2" under sink!
opened up both greay and black stops and turned it on again STILL GUSHING think my sprayer is clogged forcing water up three the vent breather under sink! Filled tank up to the top letting it sit for a day ??? How do you replace or clean the spray tube?
Took off the screws that hold the spicket end to just find a hose leading to the top of tank no axcess. Ideas anyone? ????
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31RBDS 2013 towed by 2003 F350 V 10 with SCT mikes 5 Star Tunning mod Banks headers & Y pipe
Under your sink you'll find the anti-siphon valve. It will be attached to the two white PEX tubing sections. Its purpose is to prevent black tank contents from "siphoning" to the fitting on the outside wall of your trailer. These valves are made of plastic and are easy to damage from high water pressure and from freezing. Many members have had the same misfortune as you. You can remove the anti-siphon valve, replace it with a brass valve and fittings which can be found at HD or Lowe's, you can go to an RV parts center and buy a replacement or you can just stop using your black tank flush.
Here's a picture of what you'll find attached to those two white PEX tubes and a "block diagram" of the basic system.
Under your sink you'll find the anti-siphon valve. It will be attached to the two white PEX tubing sections. Its purpose is to prevent black tank contents from "siphoning" to the fitting on the outside wall of your trailer. These valves are made of plastic and are easy to damage from high water pressure and from freezing. Many members have had the same misfortune as you. You can remove the anti-siphon valve, replace it with a brass valve and fittings which can be found at HD or Lowe's, you can go to an RV parts center and buy a replacement or you can just stop using your black tank flush.
Here's a picture of what you'll find attached to those two white PEX tubes and a "block diagram" of the basic system.
Thanks john that was the fix
65.99!!!! GUY SAYS they replace them weekly!!
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31RBDS 2013 towed by 2003 F350 V 10 with SCT mikes 5 Star Tunning mod Banks headers & Y pipe
Thanks john that was the fix
65.99!!!! GUY SAYS they replace them weekly!!
Actually there is a third option.. hard plumb the vacuum break out of the line (cost about $15-$20), then use a $6 hose bib vacuum break on the water hose you use for flushing...
and always use a pressure regulator set to no more than 45 pounds... I bought a cheap camco non-adjustable and just leave it attached to the flush hose..
Well, the flush system has a vacuum breaker that is supposed to prevent any backflow, BUT, I wouldn't want to chance it. Not much trouble to carry another hose.
Why do people have a separate fresh water and flush hose? Will the black tank ever get into the hose?
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In "theory" you may not need a second hose, but if you read Trinibob's response about what the RV service tech told him, "GUY SAYS they replace them weekly!!" You'll see that the device isn't a "reliable component". Why risk contamination of your fresh water supply and your family's health?
If you think about it, usually we all flush the black tank during the tank dumping operation. That's when you are handling the sewer hoses, valves, getting "stuff" on your gloves (hopefully not your hands) and increasing the risk of cross contaminating the hose that is being used. Having a separate hose just decreases the risk of contaminating the fresh water hose and fresh water supply.
Think of it much along the same lines of not carrying drinking water in the blue portable sewer tank, even after cleaning it out with bleach.
I agree I always use a second hose and I use one of those self expanding hoses that grow when water is applied. It saves a ton of space in my black water tote.
The thing I don't understand is why they seem to always put the black tank sprayer hose connection above the city water one (well at least on our trailer and the new one we are looking at) seems counterproductive as water always seems to run down over the city one when disconnecting it.
x2 on the 2nd hose. I leave my fresh water and black tank hoses connected with a Y at the water source, the anti-siphon in the trailer and another brass one on the black hose. I never turn the water off before turning off the valve on the Y and the Y is designated black/fresh.
It helps to remember to remove the siphon valve as part of winterization.
I keep a separate 50' coiled garden hose just for black tank flushing. It takes up so little space, and why would you EVER hook your water supply hose up at an RV dump station?? EEEEEWWWWWW. http://www.amazon.com/Orbit-27872-Co.../dp/B000NIYTB0
Just replaced my valve today. It never dawned on me during winterization to blow air through that valve as well.... We have also had to replace the toilet valve because of not blowing that out properly... Still learning after all these years!
I wasn't hooking up the fresh water at the dump site, but I was using it at the camp site to flush. Guess I'll make that one the black tank hose and buy a new fresh water hose.
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