2 issues: Potential water tank crack and LP regulator

[CdnCopper]

Hi everyone

Took the trailer out for its second weekend, had a blast. But had 2 issues that I need to resolve sooner than later. I have the trailer booked in for service (earliest being May 28) but thought I would get some opinions here too:

1. Water tank: Went to fill up, and as it was getting full a rush of water started pouring out the bottom. Usually it will spill out the overflow in the docking station, not the bottom - but I just thought perhaps there was a second overflow. Over the next hour or so all the water drained out, leading me to 2 options: Either the tank is cracked, or a connection came loose/broke. I can't tell due to the plastic sheathing that covers the bottom of the trailer. I was thinking of unbolting that to take a peek myself to see if I can diagnose. Thoughts?

2. LP Regulator: Is it common for these things to go? We had one tank work, and when I switched it to the other there was no LP, even though it was full, and the tank was on. Thoughts?

I have warranty on these items but my dealership charges me a "deductible" ($50) to use. If I can take care of them for less than that, pending the tank being cracked, I would like to do so.

Thanks again!

[Festus2]

1. Water tank - Until you unscrew the coroplast and shine a light in where the tank is located, it's hard to tell what is causing the leak. As you said, it could be a connection that is either loose or the filler hose has come away. It could also be a cracked tank but I'm leaning toward a connection problem.

2. LP regulator - Yes, they do gum up and need to be replaced. When you did the switch over and turned the other (full tank) on, did you turn it on slowly? Sometimes, if you turn the valve on too quickly, the sudden on rush of propane will automatically shut the system down. Do you have the changeover regulator type? If so, did you flip the lever over to the other tank?

[CdnCopper]

Re. LP: Yes, I switched it over, but fast. I will try again slow, to see what happens. If not I may pick up a replacement as long as they aren't too much.

[sourdough]

As Festus2 said, switch the valve slowly. The first time I switched mine I did exactly as you did and it did exactly what yours did.

[JRTJH]

The safety flow valves in the pigtails, regulator and the bottles may need to be "reset". Turn the propane off "COMPLETELY", disconnect both bottles and then turn on a burner on the stove to relieve pressure in the lines. Then reconnect everything, select ONE bottle, turn it on SLOWLY, purge the lines by lighting the stove burners, then the furnace, then the water heater, then the refrigerator. Once everything is operational, then SLOWLY open the second bottle and SLOWLY close the first bottle. If the regulator functions to select the second bottle, the stove burner will continue to burn and you'll know the regulator, hoses and bottles are functional. If the stove burner goes out, then you'll need to start troubleshooting to find the "bad valve".... It may be in the regulator, in a hose or in a bottle. But it probably will function properly if you do things SLOWLY..... No, not "illiterate" bottles, just "touchy" valves. Good Luck.

[CdnCopper]

Thanks guys, great info.

Unbolted the sheathing tonight to expose the tank, found the culprit pretty quick: a Crack in the back drivers side lower corner. Not sure how it could have happened other than mfg defect. It's pretty sheltered by the axles. Glad I bought the extra warranty!

[sptddog]

Well that sucks. Could it have froze and cracked?

[CdnCopper]

Not sure if freezing would have caused a crack that big - but perhaps. Dealership is looking at bringing in a new tank now