Trailer brakes beyond the obvious

[Seabee]

When I hook up my trailer after checking lights, hitch etc., I get rolling to about 5 mph and grab the brake controller to test the trailer's brakes. Even though I have the gain turned all the way up to 10 it doesn't seem as if the brakes are grabbing that hard. I had the gain set at 6 with my old trailer and the brakes grabbed much harder. Could it just be that the new trailer is 2000lbs heavier or is there something I need to check out? If so, what is the easiest way to check if everything is working correctly? As always, thanks for the help in advance.

[chuckster57]

First thing I would check is the trailer. Even though it's new, I've seen wires not connected, shoes coated on grease, or way out of adjustment.

With the trailer hooked up, pull the break away pin and see if the brakes lock up. If they do, then the issue is probably somewhere in the truck wiring. If they don't, then I would take it in for warranty inspection/repair, adjustment. IIRC brake adjustment is a warranty repair for the first 90 days.

[Seabee]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

First thing I would check is the trailer. Even though it's new, I've seen wires not connected, shoes coated on grease, or way out of adjustment.

With the trailer hooked up, pull the break away pin and see if the brakes lock up. If they do, then the issue is probably somewhere in the truck wiring. If they don't, then I would take it in for warranty inspection/repair, adjustment. IIRC brake adjustment is a warranty repair for the first 90 days.

Thanks Brother. Obviously, I didn't even think about pulling the break-away. I'm going to call that a senior moment.

[therink]

My trailer weighs 12k. I thought the same thing, so I checked the adjustment on all 4 brakes shoes. They were right where they nended to be. Next, I confirmed that all 4 brakes were activating when energized. All good.
I finally concluded that due to the heavy weight of the trailer, the wheels are not going to lock up like in lighter trailers. I figure that as long as I can feel the trialer brakes grab first when towing (feel a slight jerking when depressing the brake pedal), all is good. I have been towing this trailer a while now and the truck brakes aren't wearing prematurely.
I do run 8.0 on my integrated brake controller.

[chuckster57]

Just a thought: do the IBC trucks apply voltage proportionally like my prodigy?

The slower you go the less voltage that is applied, maybe you aren't going fast enough to test them. I always go about 20-30 MPH on my home block. If there is an issue I just go around the block and park in front of the house.

[cw3jason]

If you have the self adjusting breaks, you need to squeeze multiple times to get them to adjust everytime you head out. Once they adjust they will grab and hold your tow vehicle from idling forward.

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[BirchyBoy]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Just a thought: do the IBC trucks apply voltage proportionally like my prodigy?

The slower you go the less voltage that is applied, maybe you aren't going fast enough to test them. I always go about 20-30 MPH on my home block. If there is an issue I just go around the block and park in front of the house.

Are you saying (dumb it down for me) that the Prodigy puts out less volts if the vehicle is going slower? My previous basic Tekonsha controller would lock the brakes at 5mph, but my new P3 won't.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Just a thought: do the IBC trucks apply voltage proportionally like my prodigy?

The slower you go the less voltage that is applied, maybe you aren't going fast enough to test them. I always go about 20-30 MPH on my home block. If there is an issue I just go around the block and park in front of the house.

I'm not sure about GM or RAM IBC's, but yes, Ford is a proportional system. Here's the quote from the Owner's Manual:

"The trailer brake controller is equipped with a feature that reduces output at vehicle speeds below 11 mph (18 km/h) so trailer and vehicle braking is not jerky or harsh. This feature is only available when applying the brakes using your vehicle's brake pedal, not the controller."

[jtyphoid]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Just a thought: do the IBC trucks apply voltage proportionally like my prodigy?

The slower you go the less voltage that is applied, maybe you aren't going fast enough to test them. I always go about 20-30 MPH on my home block. If there is an issue I just go around the block and park in front of the house.

Don't know about other brands, but the Ford integrated brake controller is proportional to brake pedal pressure.

However, hand actuation using the lever will apply whatever max you have dialed in if you squeeze it all the way.

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by BirchyBoy

Are you saying (dumb it down for me) that the Prodigy puts out less volts if the vehicle is going slower? My previous basic Tekonsha controller would lock the brakes at 5mph, but my new P3 won't.

As I remember, as I pull up to a stop my display will show lower voltage. And at a complete stop no voltage. Been a while since I towed and my prodigy is older ('08) with the red display not blue.

[Javi]

I'm thinking this might help you a bit... http://www.expediter.com/pdf%20folde...y%20manual.pdf


http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...gy-TowCard.pdf

[Seabee]

Thanks to all for the replies. I pulled the break away and all four wheels lock up tighter than a drum. I learned that the IBC is proportional, so apparently I simply wasn't going fast enough when doing my brake testing. Speaking to the DW about it she seems to think I was always going faster with the old trailer when I tested the brakes. I reckon I will have to take her word for it. It's our anniversary tomorrow so I guess I will let her be right.

[Ken / Claudia]

You said you have the gain up, do you have a boost and is it set to match the heavier trailer.

[jsmith948]

"Speaking to the DW about it she seems to think I was always going faster with the old trailer when I tested the brakes. I reckon I will have to take her word for it. It's our anniversary tomorrow so I guess I will let her be right."

We've been married 48+ yrs.......You are a very wise man

[jtyphoid]

Originally Posted by Seabee

Thanks to all for the replies. I pulled the break away and all four wheels lock up tighter than a drum. I learned that the IBC is proportional, so apparently I simply wasn't going fast enough when doing my brake testing. Speaking to the DW about it she seems to think I was always going faster with the old trailer when I tested the brakes. I reckon I will have to take her word for it. It's our anniversary tomorrow so I guess I will let her be right.

Did you test by applying the TV brakes or by actuating just the trailer brakes via the manual control?

I always test with the manual control before I even leave the driveway. Squeezing the manual control all the way will apply full brake power at any speed.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by jtyphoid

Did you test by applying the TV brakes or by actuating just the trailer brakes via the manual control?

I always test with the manual control before I even leave the driveway. Squeezing the manual control all the way will apply full brake power at any speed.

I may be completely wrong with this statement, but I believe it's correct. On current Ford IBC's, squeezing the manual brake lever will apply "full brake power", but only up to the maximum setting that has been selected. In other words, if you're set on Boost 1 and power level 5, that's all you'll get by squeezing the IBC lever. If you're on Boost 3 and level 5, you'll get substantially more voltage to the trailer brakes when you squeeze the manual lever using the same amount of "thumb pressure."

So, to pull the breakaway pin will provide maximum voltage to the brake magnets, while squeezing the IBC lever will apply the "maximum set voltage" (but not the maximum voltage that is obtained when pulling the breakaway pin).

Using the IBC and the brake pedal, the truck senses speed and reduces (proportionally) the IBC output if vehicle speed is below 11 MPH (I think)... but squeezing the lever manually "bypasses the proportional" feature and provides "maximum setting voltage" but not maximum possible voltage"... Does that make any sense?

As I said, that's the way I read the owner's manual, I could be wrong......

[jtyphoid]

John, you are absolutely correct. The lever will go to the max that you have set. Thanks for the clarification.