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Old 06-21-2018, 08:20 AM   #21
bbells
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IMHO, find the instructions for the installation of your weight distribution hitch and sway bars. If the instructions for yours aren't clear enough, just find a brand that is similar. Equalizer has good instructions. Then, re setup everything. The dealer had my hitch at the wrong angle and it caused excess weight on the trailers front wheels. Simply changing the angle fixed my problem. You may be able to fix yours the same way, or if your dealer screwed up the installation (they almost always do), find a flat area, grab a tape measure, and reset everything yourself per instructions. It is easy and kind of fun. Also, if you have 2 axles lube the joints connecting them. Next, adjust your trailer brakes to make sure none of them are dragging.
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Old 06-21-2018, 08:59 AM   #22
Bttravel
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From all the comments about sway, noise and grease I realize how much I love my Andersen hitch. I have none of the above. Quick and easy hookup and unhook. After replacing china bombs with Goodyear Endurance E range it's even better. Straight and true even on not the best of roads.
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Old 06-21-2018, 09:48 AM   #23
FlyingAroundRV
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When we got our Outback 272UFL, Ryan at Dan's hitch in Elkhart reccomended a Husky Centerline HD. At $900 I felt it was pricey, but I wanted something that would make towing easy.
It certainly does that!
We are currently in Virginia and their roads have random cambers...like all over the place. The roads here throw you left and right at alalrming rates. Our TT just sits behind the truck and except that the truck accelerates and decelerates a bit slower, I don't even know the trailer is there.
THAT is what I wanted from my hitch when I forked out all the $$$.
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Old 06-21-2018, 10:56 AM   #24
jefisch
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Check this out...

https://www.facebook.com/TechInsider...location=group
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Old 06-21-2018, 11:59 AM   #25
mikec557
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Originally Posted by oldognewtrick View Post
In pulling a Bullet Ultra Lite 30' with a 2013 Ram 1500 and fought sway and push from wind and passing semi's. I just bought an Equalizer 4 PT hitch and the difference is night and day. Just got back from a 150 mile trip and no more white nuckles. Pricey, but definitely worth it.
I second the Equalizer 4 pt hitch (mine is the 10k lbs model). Using this, sway is a non-topic.

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Old 06-21-2018, 12:13 PM   #26
mikec557
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I should look before posting, but I'm camping and can't look, so ignore me if I'm wrong, but.. When I recently bought the tube of Equalizer grease it said to lightly grease the pivoting points on the hitch head and NOT the brackets on the trailer tongue. For that location they sell an odd shaped piece of plastic for the spring bars to slide on "in lieu" of iron on iron. Sounds like it would reduce the anti-sway but quiet the moaning. I bought and tried them. It didn't seem to adversely effect the anti sway, but I run without them now. Just didn't like the idea of reducing the friction of steel on steel...
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Old 06-21-2018, 03:49 PM   #27
Ittle Dew Too
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I have a 2015 28rbs and an Equalizer hitch with my F150 Super Crew. We have towed it 15000 miles around the country and over every major mountain range in the lower 48. No sway and no push from passing trucks. A very comfortable towing experience.
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Old 06-21-2018, 06:27 PM   #28
RagingRobert
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I'm towing a Cougar rbs22 with a Husky centre line weight distribution hitch with built in sway control (I know sounds impressive and it is and worth every penny...drives like I'm towing nothing except when going uphill of course Sway is non existent. Loading your RV properly is important...I'm actually low on hitch weight according to my 800-1200 lb rating...so I load mostly the front of the RV and a little weight to the rear of my 2500 Express cargo van...it drives like a sports RV
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Old 06-21-2018, 06:51 PM   #29
Retired Copper
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A lot of the top hitch makers now have a Equalizer 4pt. sway control clone and that is a good thing. The Equalizer has been around for 70years so I guess they are doing something right and it works for a lot of folks.
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Old 06-22-2018, 06:21 AM   #30
foldbak
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Cougar Half Ton 27SABWE towed with a 2012 Ford Expedition with tow package. Husky weight distribution with dual friction sway control. Level and no sway. The dog has 2/3 of the vehicle
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Old 06-23-2018, 07:54 AM   #31
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I tow a 251 Bullet with both a Tahoe and GMC 2500 with air bags. Also a 14000 lb Equalizer hitch and no sway issues. Air Suspension really messes up the tow characteristic and increases sway (as alluded to previously.) This link will explain better.
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Old 06-23-2018, 03:43 PM   #32
RagingRobert
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Yes indeed, towing is the tense part of RVing/camping A proper set up that feels solid/tight makes is less stressful and worth the time and money not to mention the safety factor.

Let's camp!
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Old 06-24-2018, 10:34 AM   #33
mikec557
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Oops. I posted this into the wrong thread. Sorry about that...

Mike
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Old 06-24-2018, 01:49 PM   #34
Booch
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Well, 450 miles this weekend using my shiny new Equal-i-zer hitch... and it was awesome. Thanks for the tips, everyone.
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Old 06-24-2018, 01:52 PM   #35
oldognewtrick
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Originally Posted by Booch View Post
Well, 450 miles this weekend using my shiny new Equal-i-zer hitch... and it was awesome. Thanks for the tips, everyone.
Good deal, glad it worked out for the best. I love the way mine handles. Sure wish the dealer would of mentioned the upgrade when I bought my trailer..
Oh well, live and learn.
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Old 06-25-2018, 05:29 PM   #36
RagingRobert
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I just had an interesting thought/concern with these type hitches. You know how when you hitch and coupler up then crank up both the RV and the tow vehicle via your electric jack to make it easy to install the bars...I wondering if it's not hard on the jack and the coupler lifting both vehicle and RV? I know I hear the jack labouring...
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Old 06-25-2018, 05:32 PM   #37
jtludwig
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Originally Posted by RagingRobert View Post
I just had an interesting thought/concern with these type hitches. You know how when you hitch and coupler up then crank up both the RV and the tow vehicle via your electric jack to make it easy to install the bars...I wondering if it's not hard on the jack and the coupler lifting both vehicle and RV? I know I hear the jack labouring...


Well good luck doing it without using the jack. A replacement electric jack doesn’t cost very much $$$ so I wouldn’t worry about it.

I also wouldn’t worry about the coupler, considering all of the stresses that it is subject to as you’re hauling down the road, around curves, and over bumps.
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Old 06-25-2018, 06:13 PM   #38
sourdough
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RagingRobert View Post
I just had an interesting thought/concern with these type hitches. You know how when you hitch and coupler up then crank up both the RV and the tow vehicle via your electric jack to make it easy to install the bars...I wondering if it's not hard on the jack and the coupler lifting both vehicle and RV? I know I hear the jack labouring...
That's what they're made for. Imagine taking your hand crank to try to jack up the truck/trailer to get the sway bars off....don't think so. Or, don't use anything at all and try to pull the wdh bars by yanking them...once, only once...almost lost a knee cap. I posted the instructions from Equalizer on how to disconnect....you raise the truck/trailer.
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Old 06-25-2018, 06:18 PM   #39
ctbruce
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RagingRobert View Post
I just had an interesting thought/concern with these type hitches. You know how when you hitch and coupler up then crank up both the RV and the tow vehicle via your electric jack to make it easy to install the bars...I wondering if it's not hard on the jack and the coupler lifting both vehicle and RV? I know I hear the jack labouring...
Lifting the weight not moving on level ground is a whole lot less stress on the latch and ball than driving it on the interstate.
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Old 06-25-2018, 07:03 PM   #40
Booch
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Most reputable electrics are rated for at least 3500lbs. That's plenty to cover the tongue weight and raising the rear of the truck up a few inches. Don't even think twice about it.
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