WD hitch head angle

marcortez · 01-03-2017, 07:17 AM

Can someone please explain to me why the need to adjust the angle of the head unit on a weight distributing hitch?

I am seeing adjustable by inserting or removing spacer washers?.

Thank you

**JRTJH** · 01-03-2017, 07:52 AM

Here's a "Cliff notes" version: The weight distribution bars need to be "below the trailer "A" frame so when you turn they can swing without hitting the trailer frame. They need to also be angled enough so when they are "tightened for travel" they put the proper tension on the trailer to redistribute the weight. If the tow vehicle "sags" or "rises" when hitched, it will change the angle of the WD bars causing them to possibly not clear the trailer frame or to not have enough "links of chain" to adjust for proper weight distribution.

So, an adjustable hitch head (adding or subtracting washers) is one way to "angle the hitch" so the WD bars can be properly adjusted.

Additionally, the hitch "should be near vertical" when the rig is unhitched. That will allow for easier unlocking of the hitch coupler and raising the trailer from the hitch ball. Too much angle will make that task difficult or maybe "impossible". So adjusting the hitch head angle is a "compromise in play" for many applications.

Ideally, with the correct "hitch receiver drop", correct towing height, correct trailer frame coupler height and correct WD bars, everything would be "horizontal", but that usually doesn't happen and "a few washers under the hitch head" makes it all "work together".......

ADDED: You asked earlier about "round bar vs trunnion bar" hitches. If you remember those physical differences, you'll remember that trunnion bars "hit the trailer" a few inches higher than round bars, which angle below the hitch head. So, depending on which bars you use, the hitch would need to be "adjustable" to position the "trailer end" of the bars in the correct position to connect them to the trailer.

**chuckster57** · 01-03-2017, 07:57 AM

We try to set the head about 10 degrees back from the shank.

geobet · 01-03-2017, 08:16 AM

You might want to check out you-tube. There are several videos on how to properly set up a travel trailer and WDH. When I towed travel trailers, after getting both the truck and trailer pretty much leveled out, I'd use the adjustable head on the hitch to finalize the set up. Takes a bit of trial and error, but worth the effort. And, if you don't have sway control, might want to consider it.

canesfan · 01-03-2017, 08:16 AM

I'd suggest studying all the hitch settings. Last pull behind I had, after the dealer "adjusted" it and after a trip that made it obvious it wasn't adjusted well enough, I took it to a flat, empty parking lot and spent several hours adjusting it correctly. Learned a lot and made a big difference in towing.

**JRTJH** · 01-03-2017, 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by canesfan

I'd suggest studying all the hitch settings. Last pull behind I had, after the dealer "adjusted" it and after a trip that made it obvious it wasn't adjusted well enough, I took it to a flat, empty parking lot and spent several hours adjusting it correctly. Learned a lot and made a big difference in towing.

ABSOLUTELY CORRECT!!!!!
If the dealer "sets it up" with an empty trailer and empty tow vehicle, then you tow it home, add 1000 pounds of cargo/water, the hitch will be "significantly out of adjustment". You'll need to load your rig as you'll travel, head somewhere flat and spend the time adjusting your hitch. Once you do and compare the "before/after" towing results, you'll know exactly why the time is a wise investment. It's even more true with WD/sway control hitches than it is with the older "WD only" hitches.

marcortez · 01-03-2017, 08:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Additionally, the hitch "should be near vertical" when the rig is unhitched. That will allow for easier unlocking of the hitch coupler and raising the trailer from the hitch ball. Too much angle will make that task difficult or maybe "impossible". So adjusting the hitch head angle is a "compromise in play" for many applications.

Ok got that.
I have a unique situation where the entrance into my long garage is sloped upward for the first 15'.....then levels out all the way to the back end.

Near as I can tell, the front wheels of the TV will be lower than the rear wheels.

Exactly as you say, I am concerned that I will be unable to disconnect the ball from the coupler....due to the angle.
There is a 12" rise from where the front wheels of the TV are, to where the rear wheels would be.

I could put the trailer all the way to the back of the garage and get the TV level on the "flat" but that seriously cuts into the available space for my other "stuff"

Would it help to disconnect the WD bars and take off the tension before I back the trailer up into the garage?

Or any other solutions that would ease the ball off the coupler when the angles are not quite right?

Absent any solutions, I could move a quad out of this garage and outside if necessary.....not my first choice.

**JRTJH** · 01-03-2017, 09:25 AM

I don't think anyone will be able to give you and "sage and sound" advice about what you're asking. It'll essentially come down to "being there and see what works best".... Try it, you may be worrying about nothing, then again, you may find a problem unhitching and have to develop a "work around"... The only way to know for sure is to "be there and do it".....

As a note, many people do remove the WD bars before backing, probably not as much to eliminate "torsion" as to just keep them from banging the trailer A frame, grinding and clunking......

canesfan · 01-03-2017, 09:38 AM

I had a driveway that sloped "up" to my side yard where I kept the trailer. The yard was flat, the driveway sloped, and the nose of the truck was lower than the back by a good bit when hitching and unhitching. I never had a problem getting the bars on or off or unlatching the coupler. It was a 30' trailer, I forget what weight the bars where. I will note that sometimes I had to jump on the bumper to get the ball loose, but that happens level or not.

marcortez · 01-03-2017, 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by canesfan

I had a driveway that sloped "up" to my side yard where I kept the trailer. The yard was flat, the driveway sloped, and the nose of the truck was lower than the back by a good bit when hitching and unhitching. I never had a problem getting the bars on or off or unlatching the coupler. It was a 30' trailer, I forget what weight the bars where. I will note that sometimes I had to jump on the bumper to get the ball loose, but that happens level or not.

Thank you for this bit of reassurance.

I had this same problem with a heavy boat in the same garage.....although without a WD hitch set up.
Yep sure enough, I would have to stand on the rear bumper to get the ball to release.
Not that big a deal really. I just kept the ball well greased up.

If it would help out, would dropping the bars and taking off the tension help out any before backing in?

marcortez · 01-03-2017, 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

I don't think anyone will be able to give you and "sage and sound" advice about what you're asking. It'll essentially come down to "being there and see what works best".... Try it, you may be worrying about nothing, then again, you may find a problem unhitching and have to develop a "work around"... The only way to know for sure is to "be there and do it".....

As a note, many people do remove the WD bars before backing, probably not as much to eliminate "torsion" as to just keep them from banging the trailer A frame, grinding and clunking......

Sound and sage.......I like it!!

canesfan · 01-03-2017, 10:04 AM

I don't know, can't really answer that. Try it both ways and see. I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it though. My thoughts now, after having a 5th for so long, is it's the same as having to take the pressure off the kingpin to unlatch the hitch. Sometimes I can back into my yard, stop and pull the handle with ease. Other times I have to back into a chock hard to be able to pull the handle. Same spot, same yard. Thinking back maybe the ball release may have been the same principle. I didn't know as much then as I do now, either.

Outback 325BH · 01-03-2017, 10:45 AM

Tilting the head back increases the tension on the WD bars. Raising the bars up higher also raises the tension on the bars. Generally, each "notch/bolt-hole/chain-link/etc." is a larger jump in tension than the tilting of the head in its steps. The head tilt is a more granular adjustment.

Use the bar adjustment to get as close as you can (with the head tilted all the way forward--no tilt), then use the head tilt for fine tuning.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

66joej · 01-03-2017, 12:05 PM

I do remove my bars when backing and manuovering. It does quiet down the noise.

RGene7001 · 01-15-2017, 09:09 PM

With the tilt back of the hitch head you get proper changes of weight distributing forces during turns. When you turn the spring which is closer to the center of the turn will release, so it will not push the TV laterally, outside of the turn, while the outer spring will keep or increase it's tension directed forward. The result will be more neutral handling during turns, lesser chance of rollover or jackknifing.

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