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Old 05-01-2019, 12:04 PM   #21
Tbos
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I noticed there is a cable splitter with nothing attached on the one side too.
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Old 05-02-2019, 09:50 AM   #22
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I noticed there is a cable splitter with nothing attached on the one side too.
Yeah there is a small box in this compartment with an plug in and cable hook up. Assuming that you are able to add a TV here but like you mentioned that splitter that goes into the box goes no where. Iíll see if there is something underneath here to tie into
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Old 05-02-2019, 06:10 PM   #23
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So had some extra time, started on the EMS Click image for larger version

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Old 05-02-2019, 06:17 PM   #24
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And isolator showed up today. Click image for larger version

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Old 05-09-2019, 10:52 AM   #25
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Looking at buying a breaker to run the converter wire into then off to the batteries

The WF 9875 is 75 amps. So should a 80 amp breaker be what I install to run to the battery bank?

It looks like the only two models of the auto reset breakers are either a 30 or 50 amp. Does that mean that the Full amperage of the Convertor isn’t available with these breakers?

I can neck Down to a 30 or 50 depending on what these existing ones are and then go out to a buss bar for the smaller stuff

I’m still trying to learn a bit on electronics. Wrapping my brain around the pipe/flow etc. illustration.

The breaker from the battery box to the inverter that runs the fridge is 100 amp.
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Old 05-09-2019, 11:56 AM   #26
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You are mixing AC and DC power components. Breakers are normally used with AC. Fuses with DC. If you want to interrupt a DC circuit you want a switch. DC usually operates at much lower voltage (eg 12vDC) vs AC voltage (120/240v). Due to this, 100a DC is not the same as 100a AC. About 1/10th of the power.
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Old 05-09-2019, 12:16 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cookinwitdiesel View Post
You are mixing AC and DC power components. Breakers are normally used with AC. Fuses with DC. If you want to interrupt a DC circuit you want a switch. DC usually operates at much lower voltage (eg 12vDC) vs AC voltage (120/240v). Due to this, 100a DC is not the same as 100a AC. About 1/10th of the power.
Sorry, I donít mean to be confusing, but these are called circuit breakers as well, for DC

This is what Iím referring to, again sorry if Iím confusing
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Old 05-09-2019, 01:38 PM   #28
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Also, weird question.

Iím putting in a battery isolator to keep the fridge bank from drawing off the main bank. But if I want to let it, can put in a switch to let the juice flow?
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Old 05-09-2019, 01:41 PM   #29
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I would think you could have the switch upstream of the isolator allowing you to bypass it if needed. Just get a multi position switch (not on/off). Similar to the 3-way valve we use to bypass the water heater when winterizing - but for electrons.

The breaker above is for over-current protection - most breakers are not made to be actuated regularly as a switch and it will wear them out. Just a heads up
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Old 05-09-2019, 09:02 PM   #30
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Yeah, I just want to make sure if the converter goes guts up that it doesn’t over charge the batteries. Or like you say something shorts and draws over-Current that the breaker flips and doesn’t melt stuff in the trailer.

Just need to do more reading on others set ups. I need to learn how to size components for what I have

Thanks for your help
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Old 05-15-2019, 03:50 AM   #31
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Had sometime before the trip so was able to get s few things done.

Finished EMS and the Victron Battery monitor.

I was able to get rid of 1 30amp resettable breaker with a bus bar. I want to redo all the crimp ends of the wire with waterproof shrink ones.

My isolator wasnít as expected, so I ordered a Victron to put in. I had to put many of the old battery cables back in. Iíll get new ones as I mange to figure out how I want everything to sit.

Got the batteries in. Itís nice to have lots of juice,. Told the HW that a Dually is now needed, she agreed. Truck is admirable, but I canít say ďI donít even know itís back thereĒ
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Old 06-20-2019, 10:05 PM   #32
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Finally had a day to start moving wiring around and install the battery isolator.

Not quite done. The fridge bank is good to go minus the negative cable redo, along with making a new negative cable for the hydro pump.

Putting on a negative block into front compartment to keep the side compartment clean.

And a switch the use the main battery bank if I choose to for the fridge.

Had to order more shrink tubing and post terminal caps. Ran out trying to get everything protected
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Old 06-21-2019, 02:56 AM   #33
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Its looking good.
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Old 06-21-2019, 03:05 AM   #34
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Let us know how you like that Victron isolator.
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Old 06-21-2019, 03:54 AM   #35
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Let us know how you like that Victron isolator.
Will do. I put in a Victron monitor. But cracked one of the leads to the fridge bank. I Need to get another so I can see if the isolator is doing itís job. I can only see voltage, usage, and AH on one bank.
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