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10-20-2020, 03:24 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Arundel
Posts: 287
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Winterizing my Cougar
About 2 weeks ago I blew out the lines with compressed air, drained the fresh water and hot water tank and called it good.
Then I got to thinking. What about the water pump itself? Blowing out the lines didn't necessarily take care of any water in the pump.
And what about the black tank flush line? On my unit it's fed separately from all the other water lines. There must be water trapped in that line that the low point drains don't handle.
So I bit the bullet, added the pink stuff to the tank and ran it into all the lines using the pump. And I used the hose attachment to take care of the black tank flush line. And the water pump is sitting with pink stuff in it!
I post this only so anyone else who might have omitted one or more of these steps can benefit from my initial oversights.
__________________
Jim
2018 Cougar 32RLI
Hercules H-901 tires
CRE3000 w/wet bolts
2021 F-350 4x4 7.3L Godzilla Crew Cab
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10-20-2020, 03:29 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Waco, Tx
Posts: 5,456
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maineiacs
About 2 weeks ago I blew out the lines with compressed air, drained the fresh water and hot water tank and called it good.
Then I got to thinking. What about the water pump itself? Blowing out the lines didn't necessarily take care of any water in the pump.
And what about the black tank flush line? On my unit it's fed separately from all the other water lines. There must be water trapped in that line that the low point drains don't handle.
So I bit the bullet, added the pink stuff to the tank and ran it into all the lines using the pump. And I used the hose attachment to take care of the black tank flush line. And the water pump is sitting with pink stuff in it!
I post this only so anyone else who might have omitted one or more of these steps can benefit from my initial oversights.
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I always blow out the black tank flush and run the water pump 3-4 minutes with the low point drains open then blow every thing out.. although I only use antifreeze in the pee traps.
for me it isn't about cost.. it's convenience, I'm probably going to use the trailer the next weekend any way.
__________________
2015 Ford F350 DRW 6.7 Diesel XL
2020 Avalanche 313 RS
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10-21-2020, 01:55 AM
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#3
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Gone Traveling
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Ajax
Posts: 431
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Hi,
Has anyone heard of bypassing the hot water tank then at the end of the winterizing a little antifreeze is let into the HW tank? I noticed this was done at the dealer last year because the bypass wasn't on at our first trip this summer. I also noticed the hot water was very cloudy and almost white? I did it myself this year and flushed out the HW tank and left the bypass on with no antifreeze entering the tank. Another thing I did which is important I think especially in colder climates is to remove the washer/screen in the city water connection and push the pressure relieve button to let some antifreeze drain...very important that after you pressurize with the antifreeze to relieve a little pressure at a faucet before you push on that button in the city fill...it could damage it. Maybe that's overkill but I like the lubricating the antifreeze does. I also hand pumped some antifreeze into the tank flush line. One more thing I use the water pump and a connected hose to draw the antifreeze out of the jug instead of pouring it into the water tank, but I do like the idea of leaving some antifreeze in the water tank and especially in the line out. Anyway...thought I'd add my 2 cents.
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10-21-2020, 03:50 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Arundel
Posts: 287
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RagingRobert
Hi, .......I use the water pump and a connected hose to draw the antifreeze out of the jug instead of pouring it into the water tank, but I do like the idea of leaving some antifreeze in the water tank and especially in the line out. Anyway...thought I'd add my 2 cents.
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My water pump is tucked away under an end table and it's not possible to get to. Used to use that technique on my 5er. I remove the vent screen and use a hose and funnel to add the antifreeze to the tank.
__________________
Jim
2018 Cougar 32RLI
Hercules H-901 tires
CRE3000 w/wet bolts
2021 F-350 4x4 7.3L Godzilla Crew Cab
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10-21-2020, 07:54 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Canton
Posts: 289
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[QUOTE=RagingRobert;417448]Hi,
Has anyone heard of bypassing the hot water tank then at the end of the winterizing a little antifreeze is let into the HW tank?
I plan on doing this to put antifreeze in the water line between wet bay and water heater. Probably a 10ft. line that I don't want to freeze.
__________________
Eddy
2019 GMC Sierra 2500HD 6.0L
2020 Cougar 32BHS
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10-21-2020, 08:42 AM
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#6
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Joppa, MD
Posts: 11,714
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[QUOTE=ewbldavis;417475]
Quote:
Originally Posted by RagingRobert
Hi,
Has anyone heard of bypassing the hot water tank then at the end of the winterizing a little antifreeze is let into the HW tank?
I plan on doing this to put antifreeze in the water line between wet bay and water heater. Probably a 10ft. line that I don't want to freeze.
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I'm not clear on how you "let in" a "little antifreeze" into the water heater. How do you know how much you let in unless you drain it? If you drain then what's the point?
__________________
Marshall
2012 Laredo 303 TG
2010 F250 LT Super Cab, long bed, 4X4, 6.4 Turbo Diesel
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10-27-2020, 07:48 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Canton
Posts: 289
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[QUOTE=flybouy;417480]
Quote:
Originally Posted by ewbldavis
I'm not clear on how you "let in" a "little antifreeze" into the water heater. How do you know how much you let in unless you drain it? If you drain then what's the point?
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I'm not worried about the water heater, but the line going from wet bay to water heater. I ran pump with antifreeze like 10 seconds, then flipped valve to "bypass". Maybe not a super scientific method, but worth a shot and I saw a little pink at WH drain.
I use low points and compressor before filling with antifreeze. For $3/gal. it's cheap insurance in case I didn't get it all out. Regardless of your methods, sad time when we shut them down for 6 months!
__________________
Eddy
2019 GMC Sierra 2500HD 6.0L
2020 Cougar 32BHS
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10-21-2020, 12:49 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Richmond
Posts: 625
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maineiacs
About 2 weeks ago I blew out the lines with compressed air, drained the fresh water and hot water tank and called it good.
Then I got to thinking. What about the water pump itself? Blowing out the lines didn't necessarily take care of any water in the pump.
And what about the black tank flush line? On my unit it's fed separately from all the other water lines. There must be water trapped in that line that the low point drains don't handle.
So I bit the bullet, added the pink stuff to the tank and ran it into all the lines using the pump. And I used the hose attachment to take care of the black tank flush line. And the water pump is sitting with pink stuff in it!
I post this only so anyone else who might have omitted one or more of these steps can benefit from my initial oversights.
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Now you got me wondering... I pulled the HW drain, shut the bypass valves, blew out the lines from the city water line connection, then pumped antifreeze thru the system via the pump to all the faucets, outdoor kitchen and shower... never thought about the black tank flush line.... should I just blow that out or should I add antifreeze to that too? Can I just gravity feed antifreeze into it with short garden hose connection after I blow it out? Never even considered it until now.. the rest of the TT is done with the exception of that line... always something...
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10-21-2020, 02:56 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Arundel
Posts: 287
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarge2
never thought about the black tank flush line.... should I just blow that out or should I add antifreeze to that too? Can I just gravity feed antifreeze into it with short garden hose connection after I blow it out? ...
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If your unit is plumbed the same as mine, it was not drained by the low point drains and was not fed by your pump. Because of the possible slope of the line, I'd be dubious about a gravity feed. I was able to use the outside hose connection and force feed the line that way. Good luck!
__________________
Jim
2018 Cougar 32RLI
Hercules H-901 tires
CRE3000 w/wet bolts
2021 F-350 4x4 7.3L Godzilla Crew Cab
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10-26-2020, 06:37 AM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: North Myton Bench
Posts: 42
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I blow out all the lines until they're dry, no moisture in the line whatsoever. I also blow the flush line out, then drain the tanks. My water pump is easy to get to, so I just unhook the connections, put a dry towel under the outlet and run it for a couple seconds. dump a pint of RV anti-freeze down each drain, including the toilet. I live in an area where the temperature can get well below zero F. I've been doing this for years. No problems.
Of course every RV is different.
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10-29-2020, 06:31 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Northville, NY
Posts: 374
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarge2
Now you got me wondering... I pulled the HW drain, shut the bypass valves, blew out the lines from the city water line connection, then pumped antifreeze thru the system via the pump to all the faucets, outdoor kitchen and shower... never thought about the black tank flush line.... should I just blow that out or should I add antifreeze to that too? Can I just gravity feed antifreeze into it with short garden hose connection after I blow it out? Never even considered it until now.. the rest of the TT is done with the exception of that line... always something...
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The only issue with the b/t flush is the back flow preventer that is usually up under the bathroom sink. If there was water trapped in that and it froze it could crack that plastic fitting. I just blow it out with air.
I don't put any antifreeze in w/h either, just drain and set by pass. I just blow out all the water lines and only put antifreeze in the P-traps. If there is a little water left in a pipe or w/h it won't harm anything. The problem is when a line is "full" of water and it freezes it expands and that's when things break. I have never done anything with the water pump and I'm thinking I have just been lucky. I will now pump a little antifreeze into the pump just to be safe. Also I will cycle the ice maker a couple time with the air connected as I really don't want antifreeze in there.
__________________
Jim & Deb
50 years happy
2018 Montana 3731FL
2017 F-350, psd,4x4, lariat, c-c, swb, srw
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10-21-2020, 03:11 PM
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#12
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Gone Traveling
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Ajax
Posts: 431
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Hi flybouy, I think once the lines were full of antifreeze and with the pump off they opened the bypass to let a little antifreeze into the HW tank. Not sure if they did this for my convenience so I wouldn't forget to turn the bypass back in the spring or it's good to let a little antifreeze sit on the bottom of the HW tank?
Hi Sarge2, Yes I blew out the tank flush lines and then I have this small hand pump that draws from the jug. An angled funnel would work also. I pumped in what I thought was enough to fill the line to reach the tank. I think you'd be okay just blowing out the lines, but for colder climates and that extra protection/lubrication, I'd add some antifreeze.
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10-21-2020, 03:59 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Richmond
Posts: 625
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Yeah I uncorked the HWH, opened the low point and hold tank drains until empty, closed those, closed bypass and blew out the lines from the city fill... until all the lines and related shower heads, outdoor sink and such only blew air.... then I shut it all down. Opened the winterize valve on the pump and drew about 1.5 gallons of antifreeze pumped thru the lines and opened each faucet until I got antifreeze.... ended up using up the rest of the two gallons... then put more down the traps on sinks and bathtub... but totally forgot about the black tank flush line... will do that this weekend... then should be done.... might be overkill but after having Gen RV do mine last year and having multiple lines and fittings split as well as the pump housing, I figured I could do better... they paid but still had me concerned about what did they miss? Luckily I camped several times with it for multiple days each time and had no leaks...Knock on Wood....
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10-21-2020, 05:09 PM
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#14
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,841
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If you have a Suburban water heater, take a look at your owner's manual in the "Winterizing" section. You'll find this statement: "Antifreeze can be very corrosive to the anode rod creating premature failure and heavy sediment in the tank."
If you have an Atwood water heater, the tank is aluminum and serves as its own anode rod. While the owner's manual doesn't address antifreeze in the tank, it also doesn't say it's OK.... I'd be very cautious about introducing something into an Atwood water heater that is considered "corrosive" in a Suburban water heater.
In other words, I'd suggest rethinking the idea of "introducing a little antifreeze into the water heater". It won't do anything "good" and it may do "lots of bad"...
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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10-22-2020, 02:07 AM
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#15
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Gone Traveling
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Ajax
Posts: 431
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Thanks for that John. Just reading the antifreeze I used, says safe for metal pipes and inhibits corrosion But yes, it doesn't make sense letting antifreeze into the HW tank.
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10-22-2020, 09:29 AM
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#16
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,841
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RagingRobert
Thanks for that John. Just reading the antifreeze I used, says safe for metal pipes and inhibits corrosion But yes, it doesn't make sense letting antifreeze into the HW tank.
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My "guess" is that statement on the antifreeze container addresses "typical metal pipes" which are found in a house... I don't know of any "plumbing pipes found in RV's or houses" that are made of aluminum or magnesium. The Suburban anode rod that comes from the factory is a magnesium alloy and the "alternative anode for some water conditions" is an aluminum alloy.... The Atwood tank is an aluminum alloy, so I'd guess (strictly a guess) that "typical metal pipes found in plumbing" are not affected by that antifreeze... However: what are "typical metal pipes" ???
I agree with you, best to just avoid getting any antifreeze in the water heater, better "safe than sorry" ....
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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10-25-2020, 03:29 PM
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#17
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Member
Join Date: May 2020
Location: The Villages
Posts: 75
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I would guess "typical metal pipes" to be Copper or Galvanized Iron.
__________________
2010 Cooper Canyon 252FWRLS
2000 F250 SC 7.3 Turbo Diesel
2003 Roadtrek 190
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10-25-2020, 08:28 PM
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#18
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: PellCity,Alabama
Posts: 52
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Winterizing
Don't forget washing machine lines.
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10-22-2020, 09:38 AM
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#19
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Joppa, MD
Posts: 11,714
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John has addressed the "safe for metal" issue. Pipes are typically copper, or galvanized iron in some older homes. The "little bit of antifreeze" in the bottom of a water heater is just not beneficial in any way. The water heater has enough area that if a small amount of water were remaining it would freeze but do no harm as it would have ample room to expand.
__________________
Marshall
2012 Laredo 303 TG
2010 F250 LT Super Cab, long bed, 4X4, 6.4 Turbo Diesel
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10-25-2020, 07:32 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 196
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My manual tells how to blow out the water lines and to only add anti-freeze to the drains.
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