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Old 10-27-2021, 08:48 AM   #21
bigdave_185
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I do have plenty of monsters to let get wet and lay all over lol

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Old 10-27-2021, 11:42 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdave_185 View Post
I do have plenty of monsters to let get wet and lay all over lol

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If that Mastiff is anything like my son's I don't know about helping the smell but you'd be wiping the drool/slober off every surface it walks by & sweeping up enough hair to make another Boston Terrier.
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Old 10-27-2021, 06:52 PM   #23
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If that Mastiff is anything like my son's I don't know about helping the smell but you'd be wiping the drool/slober off every surface it walks by & sweeping up enough hair to make another Boston Terrier.

He is a Bullmastiff with a good mouth, very little drool as long as you only measure 6í away from the water dish, which is outside.

The brown and grey face bullboxer is the one who gets the stringy drool from his face.

The puppy is yet to be told as an ol English bulldog
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Old 10-27-2021, 08:03 PM   #24
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My wife's late aunt had great danes. I'd go to their house which was vlose by during first of deer season and take care of the 2 dogs while they hunted. Never witnessed so much slober from a dog in my life. I'm near 6'3" and the male (named Bishop) loved me. He would greet me at the door, put his front paws on my shoulders, look me eye to eye, and want to slober all over me. I'd have to take a shower every time I returned home.
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Old 10-28-2021, 10:29 AM   #25
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We have a few Danes in the area and they can be such gentle dogs if trained well.
I feel like thatís a standard greeting from a Dane with his paws on your shoulders looking into your eyes as if to see if your a good person or not.
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Old 10-28-2021, 10:31 AM   #26
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Whatís the common type of insulation to pack into the bottom of these trailers? Looking under mine the insulation is either missing, been removed or got soiled and got tossed.
Iíd like to pull the belly pan and reinstall. Spray insulation is not a current option with timing.
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Old 11-05-2021, 07:27 PM   #27
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Went and picked these brand new couch recliners from a FB seller, they were in the box still brand new, $200 bucks.

Notice any issues?
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She accepted them back and would be calling the company who made them for her RV and following up with me.

They are warranty couches for there motor home that she has been waiting on for a year and a half.
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Old 11-07-2021, 01:21 PM   #28
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2008 keystone raptor m-3712-ts

Truck and trailer weight. Nothing added. Empty as the trailer can be

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Old 11-16-2021, 09:53 PM   #29
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Added my air bags tonight

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Not sure if it was on this forum but someone mentioned these

Daystar, Air Bag Cradle designed... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0084ROJBM...p_mob_ap_share

A terrible designed product. Once size fits all does not work, hardware was cheap, and bolt pattern was wrong to the point of me drilling a new hole to try and cobblefab it to work. Short story it didnít work, I tossed em.
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Old 11-19-2021, 07:25 PM   #30
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Picked my trailer up tonight from the local RV store. Very nice and helpful tech met me to answer my questions about his concerns

Suggests:
a roof replacement $6900
Onion Gen service

All else looks good

I asked about the roof and why? There is some thin spots in the membrane and the longevity has been reached, said no cracks or anything otherwise. I inquired about a epoxy type coating on the roof and he said itís doable but they do not do them.

The Gen service I figure I should be able to figure out.

I asked about the slide that sticks out slightly when closed on one corner only and he said itís easy but no other suggestion as how to fix


Anyone have a link to a roof how to thread or experience with specific brands of products to stay away from?


Also looking for a video about adjusting my slides to close properly
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Old 11-21-2021, 07:11 AM   #31
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Anyone? Marco?
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Old 11-21-2021, 11:57 AM   #32
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I have an RV-ARMOR.com roof; lifetime warranty that is transferable to any new owner. Current cost is $150 a linear foot. A bit more than when I had my roof done. I chose this company because they come to you and install the roof at your location. No need to drop off the camper at some location and leave it. My roof is far more durable than any factory installed TPO (or EPDM) roof. I got my roof installed when I tore the original 2002 EPDM roof on a tree limb; insurance company paid and I paid the deductible. There are DIY kits that allow you to coat your roof but I am not familiar so can't comment. There is another company with a similar product as RV-ARMOR but you have take your camper to one of their shops and they are a bit more expensive. Rhino Linings makes a product for covering RV roofs and it is a bit different than their truck bed product. I priced this product which must be applied by one of their shops and it was more expensive and had less warranty/guarantee support. I also priced a new rubber roof from a local repair shop that installs them and a new EPDM roof was more than what I paid. If you have a 40' camper, I suspect $6900 isn't all that bad but I think an RV-ARMOR.com roof would be a bit less and be a lot more durable.


As far as adjusting your slides, I suppose it depends which manufacturer made your slide mechanism. Go to youtube.com and type in "lippert slide adjustment" or "bal slide adjustment" or cable slide adjustment I guess.
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Old 11-21-2021, 05:03 PM   #33
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Thank you very much for your input.

Seems as if your not towing overweight no one here seems to be interested in things your doing
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Old 11-21-2021, 05:05 PM   #34
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Kept polishing today on The outside of the trailer

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Looks ok at a side angle but there is some major cracking in the filon and some discoloration I wasnít able to get out. I didnít hit it with sand paper but a wool pad and 3m cutter is right close to sand
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Old Yesterday, 05:31 PM   #35
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Not sure how hard I should pull on these valves, neighbor says his pull out three inches or so, I canít bring myself to yank on mineÖ

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How hard should I give a pull on them,? Iíd like to fill my tanks and rinse them out ( not my bowel movements and Iíd like to remove as much as possible)
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Old Yesterday, 06:12 PM   #36
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Not sure how hard I should pull on these valves, neighbor says his pull out three inches or so, I canít bring myself to yank on mineÖ

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How hard should I give a pull on them,? Iíd like to fill my tanks and rinse them out ( not my bowel movements and Iíd like to remove as much as possible)
They can be a little sticky, a firm pull should be just fine. They only move about 3-4 inches.

If you use your truck to pull the levers please share your scale slips so youíll get a responseÖ..
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Old Yesterday, 06:28 PM   #37
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With the valve handles that close together, it's a "sure thing" that they are attached to the valve body at each tank using a Bowden cable. That's the same "spring wound around a steel wire" contraption that is used on your lawn mower throttle cable and on most "mountain bike front brakes"....

Those cables can easily be kinked or corrode internally causing them to be difficult to impossible to operate. You might try lubricating them with a motorcycle brake cable oiler. Then let them sit for a day or so, try to inject a bit more oil into the sheath, then start working them slowly. If it's corrosion in the sheaths, they will eventually loosen up. You might also pour a gallon of hot water with a cup of olive oil down each drain (one drain for each tank) to get some "lubricating oil" to the rubber valve seats.

If that fails, "yanking the handles" might break the cable or pull it out of the valve body, but by that time, you're going to be looking at opening the belly to inspect and repair the valves anyway, so a "gallant last effort" may not help, but it likely won't hurt to try.....
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Old Yesterday, 06:56 PM   #38
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They can be a little sticky, a firm pull should be just fine. They only move about 3-4 inches.

If you use your truck to pull the levers please share your scale slips so youíll get a responseÖ..

Iíll start with something small to pull on them. Lol

Iíll shoot some cable lube on them see what happens. I could also use some compressed air to blow penetrating oil down inside also
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Old Yesterday, 07:04 PM   #39
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I’ll start with something small to pull on them. Lol

I’ll shoot some cable lube on them see what happens. I could also use some compressed air to blow penetrating oil down inside also
Anything that will force grease or oil down the sheath and/or something to help loosen/breakup the rust (PB Blaster) will do wonders (if the bowden cables are the problem)... If it's the valve slide "stuck to the rubber seal", then EVOO (extra virgin olive oil) may do the trick... Just don't toss a head of Romaine lettuce in the black tank expecting <we won't go there> !!!
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Old Yesterday, 07:24 PM   #40
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SoÖ. I made one mistake. I pulled the two grey valves not thinking outcome all the way through, the trailer is just on my side yard RV pad. Now I have grey water in the stinky pipe with the lid closed

I smartened up before I gave the black tank handle a stiff pull
I noticed the sound of water flowing after a second closed the two grey valves.

A good yank with both hands freed them up and I think Iíll try lube on the line and some oil into the tanks


Plan is three or four five gallon buckets of hot water, some tide pods down the toilet, shower, kitchen sink and then tow it around to wash em out as good as possible then drain. Does the sprinkler washer thing in the black tank actually work?
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