Entry Door Shock Mount Damage

[37240]

Has anyone seen this happen to the entry door shock braket.

This is a 2012 Raptor 300MP. It is the rear entry door which we rarely use.

I'm wondering if maybe the screws were over tightened/stripped at the factory and finally let loose.

[SAD]

Originally Posted by 37240

..I'm wondering if maybe the screws were over tightened/stripped at the factory and finally let loose.

It would not surprise me at all if what you state above is the reason for the problem.

Grrrrr.. Sometimes I wonder about my own sanity. I love RVs.. I wish I was wealthy enough to collect all the different varieties of them.. I'd have a big shop full of them - enough to look like a new showroom floor..

RVs all look great on the surface. No matter what the trim level, entry-level, mid-range, high-end..... They all look great for the amenities expected at their price-point.

Then you peel back the covers.. Look behind a panel.. OMG... Doesn't matter what you have. $9,000 itty bitty camper... $75,000 5er.... or $475,000 tag axle DP MH... The same mental midgets dip-chits over-torqued, didn't torque, kinked, bent, stripped, didn't connect at all, split just about every thing that is unseen...

Argh... There. Thats my rant about consistently poor RV construction regardless of make, model, year or $$$.

I feel better Thanks for listening.

[Englishman]

if its still under warranty then take it back to the dealer.

[11155]

I have the same problem. How does a person fix this?

[Roller4Tan]

Remove the screws and fill the holes with toothpicks and super glue and reinstall the screws. Try not to use the door for a few hours. Caulk the top of the bracket. My 2 cents

[JRTJH]

It looks like the shock bracket is mounted to the upper lip molding on the door and it came loose as it bent the molding. I'd take a wooden block and a 16oz ball peen hammer, tap the molding back into shape, cut (or have cut) a piece of 1/8" steel sheeting to use as a backer plate on the opposite side of the molding/door assembly. the backer needs to fit against the back side of the molding, and not interfere with closing the door. If you make it 3 or 4 inches long, it will help distribute the torque from opening the door along that much of the top of the door. Drill holes, find some good stainless machine screws, reinstall the bracket using the backer to keep it in place. You may need to put the screw heads on the inside with nuts on the outside to get enough clearance to close the door. If you do it right, it won't come loose any more and you'll need a new door before you need to mess with that bracket any more.

[bgilsrud]

Same thing happened to Me. I got some good stainless steel screws, drill the hole always through the door, and tighten them in place haven't had a problem since .

[suuntoCore]

Take out the screws and replace them using rivets.

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by suuntoCore

Take out the screws and replace them using rivets.

Problem with rivets is the door isn't solid. That edge trim isn't rigid enough to hold the strut mount flush.

RV doors are just thin sheets filled with styrofoam.

[randy69]

Both side doors shocks screws are strip . Drill through door and replaced with machine screw washer and nut.

[theeyres]

Originally Posted by Roller4Tan

Remove the screws and fill the holes with toothpicks and super glue and reinstall the screws. Try not to use the door for a few hours. Caulk the top of the bracket. My 2 cents

x2 If you use the super glue it will hold forever. Just make sure to get screws in before the super glue dries.

[SmittysRV]

I know this is an old thread, but what the heck... This has been an ongoing problem with both my side entry doors. I constantly have to tighten the screws in and just recently the front entry door is no longer staying tight. Its time to actually spend some time on it and fix it right. I like the idea of drilling threw the door and adding the this piece of steel to the inside and put her back together with some good stainless nuts and bolts.

My question is, has anyone replaced the shocks? I see plenty on amazon but want to get the correct ones the first time if possible. Anyone with good info regarding the actually shock replacement part number would be sweet, I can barely read a few of the numbers and words on mine anymore. I do see that the are 20" and 10lb. Thank you!!

[PARAPTOR]

Originally Posted by SmittysRV

I know this is an old thread, but what the heck... This has been an ongoing problem with both my side entry doors. I constantly have to tighten the screws in and just recently the front entry door is no longer staying tight. Its time to actually spend some time on it and fix it right. I like the idea of drilling threw the door and adding the this piece of steel to the inside and put her back together with some good stainless nuts and bolts.

My question is, has anyone replaced the shocks? I see plenty on amazon but want to get the correct ones the first time if possible. Anyone with good info regarding the actually shock replacement part number would be sweet, I can barely read a few of the numbers and words on mine anymore. I do see that the are 20" and 10lb. Thank you!!

Yeap visiting Oklahoma area in tornado season, this is the part that was a direct replacement Gas Prop for either door on The Raptor. Just pop new one on, to get old off need to get the top spring on both ends lifted up a bit.

RV Designer G21 ------ 20" GAS PROP 10 lb

Different vendors found on Internet ~$12-$15


ADDED: Found my old notes

Door is a Challenger Door, their Part # for Prop is 310315
Keystone # is 347725

Notes state Keystone Price was $35, Trekwood had it for $57

Think I cross referenced this somehow to This RV Designer G21 Currently looking at sleeve it was in, Fits perfectly installed early 2015. Found a lot of 20" locally but not 10LBS

Stay out of Oklahoma and should last forever

Hope this helps

[Sherwood]

I too had the same problem. Tried thicker screws and problem quickly came back. With the door shock to bracket having some play in it, it would jar back and fourth when door opens and quickly pull bracket from door. I had to drill the door all the way through and stick long stainless hardware on there and never had a problem since.

[canesfan]

Those shocks came off first thing. Any wind more than say 5MPH would bounce the door back and forth until it slammed closed. Replaced them with normal hold open latches. Now I can open the door ALL the way and it stays open until I close it.

[PARAPTOR]

Originally Posted by canesfan

Those shocks came off first thing. Any wind more than say 5MPH would bounce the door back and forth until it slammed closed. Replaced them with normal hold open latches. Now I can open the door ALL the way and it stays open until I close it.

So true with that prop, which is only 10 lb door does move easily in the wind when open. So I definitely see your point by leaving if off. In my case it was very high winds (YA Oklahoma in Tornado season) and I thought I had a good hold of the door while I was opening it. WELL wind pulled door out of my hand and cracked the end support piece off the prop . Yes, At that point my door also opened all the way like yours does now

I guess never really thought about leaving it off just wanted to fix it back to how it was.

ADDDED: now you have two things I need from you, folding ladder and extra props